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in reply to: even MORE contemplations! #38388
Steve,
Extremely well said! With several decades of proven bowhunting history, it never ceases to amaze me how we must keep defending what has been shown to work.
in reply to: HEAVY SPINE/ GREAT FLIGHT??? #37505makesmoosecry wrote: Here goes my question… currently shooting a circa 1970 50# super kodiak.. PERFECT tune/flight with a 28.5″ Easton XX75 1916 with 125 gr head. HOW do i get a heavyer arrow to fly perfect.. like how about a Full Metal Jacket?? would i try to get as much weight as possible up front and maybe shoot a 30 inch arrow? Would i go to brace height? (brace is currently at 8.5 inches for the 1916’s)..
thanks,
EricMy question would be, what type of arrow shaft do you want to use? To build a heavier aluminum arrow that will fly well, if you are alreay at the heavy end of the spine range (the thicker-walled shafts), you do the same as you would with carbons…go to a stiffer shaft and use a heavier head. You can get quite heavy with aluminums if you’re willing to add a lot of tip weight. Back when I shot a lot of competitive NFAA indoor paper, I used full length (34″) 2419s with very heavy heads. If memory serves, those arrows were over 750 grains.
in reply to: Carbon bare shaft tuning question #37176handirifle wrote:
When I get them, I would like to know, in advance, how you guys go about bare shaft tuning them. With alum shafts, it’s cut it off 1/2 or so at a time, (assuming it is too lightly spined at full length) and re-hot glue the insert back in, and re-shoot.
The same method works just fine for carbons. Although, I would start at removing 1/4″ at a time. A lot of people cut from the back like Troy suggested, but I’m not sure how one could compare bare shaft and fletched shaft groups (which is what bare shaft tuning is) when you cut from the back.
handirifle wrote:
What do you use for the temp glue up for carbons?What glue do you guys use for final gluing of inserts?
Bohning Ferr-L-Tite for both.
handirifle wrote:
Do you apply heat (if used) to the arrow, or just the insert?For carbon shafts, screw a field point into the insert and apply gentle heat to the tip of the point. The heat will travel down the point, into the insert, and melt the glue. Go slow and check the bond every few seconds. Never apply heat directly to the shaft.
handirifle wrote:
If you use a glue in taper (like steel ones to get the EFOC desired), what is the best to use?It depends on what you intend to do. If you want to put a lot of weight up front, steel inserts are good. I have no need for that, so I replace my RPS inserts with 20-grain aluminum Flightmate inserts (now called glue-in/glue-on inserts). They replace the RPS and broadhead inserts in with one single adapter.
in reply to: My Setup Adequate for Elk??? #37164Dave,
With respect to aluminums, there are some advantages. Their spine and weight tolerances are tighter than carbons. Whether or not an archer can realize that advantage is a different discussion. Since Easton is the only real player in the aluminum arrow market, the shafts are very historically consistent: a 2117 is a 2117 is a 2117. The arrow shafts made today are of the same spine and weight specs as the those made 30+ years ago.
Unfortunately, carbon arrow manufacturers are all on different pages with respect to spine and weight. They also label their spine ratings differently, which can lead to some confusion if one wishes to switch from Beman to Gold Tip, Carbon Express, Victory, or one of the other brands.
With respect to bowhunting, I doubt there’s a legal game species on this continent or Africa that hasn’t been killed with an aluminum arrow, so they’re more than up to the task. That notwithstanding, I switched to carbons full time many years ago because I figured I’d spent enough time behind an arrow straightener to last a lifetime, and I wanted to shoot a durable arrow that was between eight and nine grains per pound. With my draw length, that’s not possible with aluminum.
in reply to: GFA Quiver #32541I made a similar type quiver 11 years ago to use with a selfbow. It only took once or twice before I realized it wasn’t for me. Personally, I’d rather use a Plains-style quiver.
in reply to: My Setup Adequate for Elk??? #32536“My Setup Adequate for Elk???”
And then some.
in reply to: He is getting bigger #18963Very nice! I have a couple on my property that should be dandys by opening day.
in reply to: Anyone use a "possibles bag"? #18960I don’t like anything flopping around when I hunt, which is why I use a bowquiver and a small fanny pack for odds and ends. There are a few exceptions — I’ll use a plains quiver for small game hunting, and if I carry my DSLR I wear a backpack — but for the most part I don’t want anything slung over my shoulder or flopping around at my side. If I’m doing an all day hunt where I plan to be far from camp (elk hunting out west, moose hunting up north, or chasing hogs in Texas) then a good backpack is a must. But for Midwestern woodlot whitetails, a small fanny pack suits my needs quite well.
in reply to: Who names their bows? #61344The first selfbow I ever made didn’t turn out very well. The limbs had more hinges than a hardware store. But it shot an arrow, so I finished it and named it “Firewood.” About a hundred shots later it lived up to it’s name when it blew apart and laid my forehead open.
I would suggest NOT naming a bow “Firewood.”
in reply to: Great Books for Shooting #64132Another excellent source of information is Masters of the Barebow DVD series, particularly volumes two and three.
in reply to: Homemade arrow spinner #34068A set of those double rollers they use in drawer guides work well too.
in reply to: ace spine tester #31647I’ve been using one for the past several years. They work extremely well, take up no counter space, and are very reasonably priced.
in reply to: Cutting arrow shafts to length? #22728Dave saved me a lot of typing. For aluminums, I use a small tube cutter. You can usually get one at your local hardware store for a few dollars. For carbons, I use a Dremmel tool exactly as he described.
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