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in reply to: cresting on carbons? #22652
I use Rust-O-Leum, let it cure, and then top coat it with Minwax satin poly.
in reply to: Finally bought an ATV #22631Cabela’s, Gander Mountain, and Bass Pro all sell them for a hundred dollars or less.
in reply to: Congrats to JodyS For His Article #17522Sounds excellent! It’ll be the first thing I read when my copy arrives.
in reply to: Cresting – anyone do it without a machine? #17351That’s an excellent idea. If you use a variable speed drill, you can use a hose clamp around the grip and trigger as a speed control.
in reply to: What draw weight would you recommend? #17096I agree wholeheartedly with Don. This past June I was shooting one of the courses at Comptons with Fred and Michelle Eichler and took the oportunity to ask him about his draw and arrow weights. I figured a guy who’s killed each of the 29 North American big game species has a bit of first hand experience (to put it mildly). His arrows weigh just under 500 grains (490-something) and he shoots 54#. With very few exceptions, assuming proper arrow flight and such, accuracy trumps all.
in reply to: 1 finger over vs. 3 fingers under #15940At the end of the day there is no right or wrong answer. Shoot whichever way works best for you. I’ve shot both and found three-under works best for me. I have good friends who’ve found they shoot best split-finger.
in reply to: Giving it a try #14827Handirifle,
A lot of folks rave about tje Harbor Freoght saw, bit I’m not sure which blade they’re using. I don’t think you could go wrong with that saw. If I didn’t have the Dremel setup, I’d get one for myself.
in reply to: Re-using Fletching #14032I recycle fletching for small game arrows all the time. I don’t re-use fletching for my good arrows though.
in reply to: First With Trad Gear #14031Congrats. I’d love to read more about that hunt.
in reply to: Scouting and 'Shed' Hunting 8/11/12 #14030It looks like you had quite a day. That’s more turkey feathers than I usually find in an entire season. The shed’s nice too.
in reply to: Giving it a try #13855PM sent.
in reply to: Atom broadhead #11603Are those the ones with the little wires for blades? If so, they don’t look lile anything I would want to use.
in reply to: Giving it a try #11402FUBAR,
I apologize for not getting those photos of the jig last night. We were packing up to head out of town for the weekend (setting tree stands on our property and such) and I forgot about it. The jig is rather simple, so here’s a brief description. If you still need photos, shoot me an email and I’ll get them to you when I get back home.
Use a 4’ piece of 1×4 for the base. A 2×4 or pretty much any piece of 4’ long lumber will work. You could even use the surface of a workbench if you feel so inclined.
Clamp your Dremel tool to one end. I glued and screwed a pair of small wood cleats on each side of the Dremel to keep it straight, but with good clamps it’s not necessary.
Glue or screw a small piece of scrap wood across your base just in front of your Dremel blade. A ½” thick piece of scrap is perfect. This gives the front of your arrow shaft something to lie on while you cut it.
Cut about 2” off the end of a 2×4 and, with the largest regular drill bit you can find (no spade bits), drill a ½” deep countersink in the face of the 2×4 scrap. You will clamp this piece onto your base and place the nock end of your arrow into it while you cut your shaft. We’ll call this piece your nock receiver.
To set up the jig, start by clamping your Dremel tool to one end. Measure where you want to cut your arrow shaft and mark the shaft with a pencil (or fine tip marker). Put the nock end into your nock receiver and clamp the receiver to your base so your pencil mark on your shaft is even with the Dremel blade. Start your Dremel, slide your arrow shaft into the blade until it cuts through the wall, and gently spine the shaft 360 degrees to complete the cut. By cutting through the wall and then rotating the shaft to finish, you assure a perfectly square cut on the end of your shaft. By using the nock receiver and clamping it to your base, you guarantee all your shafts will be cut to the exact same length.
That’s it; nothing to it. If you already have a Dremel tool, some scrap lumber, a few clamps and a drill, you can build an cobble together an arrow cutoff saw for free.
in reply to: Giving it a try #10685Yes, ICS nocks press in.
in reply to: Giving it a try #10389I’ll try to take se photos of the jig amd shoot them over tonight.
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