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in reply to: Consistently hitting left #22890
Alex,
If the 350s are borderline stiff, as you say, I would expect them to impact to the left for a right handed archer. Try the 400s and see if they impact closer to center. You could always pile a ton of weight up front to weaken the 350s, but I’d rather have the correct spine to begin with.
in reply to: Entry level takedown #15079Ralph beat me to it. The Samick Sage is a great bow for the money, although the factory string leaves a lot to be desired. Thankfully, for less than $20 you can buy a better one.
in reply to: Best way to tune for wood arrows? #11820As a general rule, building out a strike plate is the last thing I recommend in tuning. The further you get from slightly outside centershot the less forgiving your bow becomes. This is not what you want from your tuning efforts.
With respect to wood arrows, tune them the same way you tune your carbons, by adjusting arrow length and point weight. Don’t overthink it, just stay with the basics.
in reply to: Bench Grinder vs Broadhead #9439When I shot Zwickey Deltas I used a bench top belt sander to put a straight edge on them before sharpening. Go slow so you don’t overheat the edge and ruin the temper and you should be fine.
in reply to: Rabbits, Hares, and Squirrels- Oh My! #8325I’ve never paid any attention to the wind when I hunt small game. With squirrels, I’m more concerned with keeping the sun behind me than anything else. Trying to locate them in trees with the sun in your eyes isn’t easy.
On the subject of recipes, portioning them up and slow cooking in a crock pot with some creme of mushroom soup is excellent. Breaded and fried with onions is really good too.
in reply to: Coffee Mug Thread #53854Mine’s a little more beat up.
in reply to: Does short drawing a bow effect its performance #50367Moebow wrote: Short answer: NO! Long answer: Still NO.
Arne
Much agreed.
in reply to: Favorite AMO for hunting? #37842Most of my hunting bows have been 62″, although I’ve taken deer with longbows as long as 70″. My present hunting recurves are 62″ and 67″.
in reply to: split vs three under #34833The tillering difference between split and three under is really a moot point. Back when recurves were almost exclusively production bows (pre-compound archery) they were all tillered pretty much the same and the archer shot them however they liked. That being said, going from split to three under will usually require some minor retuning, more often than not resulting in a slightly higher nock point.
in reply to: Latest Issue of TBM #34828Thanks, Bruce. I appreciate the kind words.
in reply to: how good is good enough? #34825There has been a lot of great advice offered so far. First and foremost I want to congratulate you for setting an accuracy minimum and sticking to it. I think if more people did that—no matter the weapon—we’d all be better off. There is simply no substitute for accuracy.
You asked if others had similar self-imposed standards, and the answer for me is yes. I use a basic 2/3 rule, meaning the longest shot I’ll take at a medium or big game animal is 2/3 the distance I can keep all my arrows—sans the rare occasional flyer—in a target the size of its kill zone. For example, if I can’t keep all my broadheads within the 8 ring of a 3D deer target at 30 yards, I won’t attempt to shoot a real one at 20.
Probably the best piece of advice I could give you right off the cuff is to remember that archery fundamentals don’t change just because your new bow doesn’t have cams at the ends of its limbs. If you are a good shooter with a compound there’s no reason you can’t easily transition that ability into a recurve—form is form, and archery is archery. The only things that truly have to change for most people switching from compounds to recurves is how they release the string (mechanical release versus fingers) and how they aim (sights versus barebow). Don’t overcomplicate things by thinking the knowledge you’ve gained with a compound doesn’t transition into a recurve.
in reply to: What type of arrow? #14138While the Samick Sage is a nice bow, it’s not high performance, even less so with the factory string. If you want to go with carbon, I would suggest Gold Tip Traditional shafts in 1535 size. They have a .600 deflection, which may still require a somewhat heavy head to get weak enough for your bow. A few online vendors sell blemished shafts, which have minor cosmetic flaws, for a very reasonable price.
in reply to: Grip vs form #57784A low wrist with excessive heel pressure pushes the bottom of the bow away, tipping the bow upward. A tight high wrist does the opposite.
in reply to: Grip vs form #56621Generally speaking, a high wrist will cause a lower point of impact, especially if you grip the bow tightly. A low wrist with excessive heel pressure will make the arrows impact higher.
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