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  • Jason Wesbrock
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      Post count: 762

      Alex,

      If the 350s are borderline stiff, as you say, I would expect them to impact to the left for a right handed archer. Try the 400s and see if they impact closer to center. You could always pile a ton of weight up front to weaken the 350s, but I’d rather have the correct spine to begin with.

      Jason Wesbrock
      Member
        Post count: 762

        Ralph beat me to it. The Samick Sage is a great bow for the money, although the factory string leaves a lot to be desired. Thankfully, for less than $20 you can buy a better one.

        Jason Wesbrock
        Member
          Post count: 762

          As a general rule, building out a strike plate is the last thing I recommend in tuning. The further you get from slightly outside centershot the less forgiving your bow becomes. This is not what you want from your tuning efforts.

          With respect to wood arrows, tune them the same way you tune your carbons, by adjusting arrow length and point weight. Don’t overthink it, just stay with the basics.

          Jason Wesbrock
          Member
            Post count: 762

            When I shot Zwickey Deltas I used a bench top belt sander to put a straight edge on them before sharpening. Go slow so you don’t overheat the edge and ruin the temper and you should be fine.

            Jason Wesbrock
            Member
              Post count: 762

              I’ve never paid any attention to the wind when I hunt small game. With squirrels, I’m more concerned with keeping the sun behind me than anything else. Trying to locate them in trees with the sun in your eyes isn’t easy.

              On the subject of recipes, portioning them up and slow cooking in a crock pot with some creme of mushroom soup is excellent. Breaded and fried with onions is really good too.

              Jason Wesbrock
              Member
                Post count: 762
                in reply to: Coffee Mug Thread #53854

                Mine’s a little more beat up.

                Jason Wesbrock
                Member
                  Post count: 762

                  Moebow wrote: Short answer: NO! Long answer: Still NO.

                  Arne

                  Much agreed.

                  Jason Wesbrock
                  Member
                    Post count: 762

                    Most of my hunting bows have been 62″, although I’ve taken deer with longbows as long as 70″. My present hunting recurves are 62″ and 67″.

                    Jason Wesbrock
                    Member
                      Post count: 762

                      The tillering difference between split and three under is really a moot point. Back when recurves were almost exclusively production bows (pre-compound archery) they were all tillered pretty much the same and the archer shot them however they liked. That being said, going from split to three under will usually require some minor retuning, more often than not resulting in a slightly higher nock point.

                      Jason Wesbrock
                      Member
                        Post count: 762

                        Thanks, Bruce. I appreciate the kind words.

                        Jason Wesbrock
                        Member
                          Post count: 762

                          There has been a lot of great advice offered so far. First and foremost I want to congratulate you for setting an accuracy minimum and sticking to it. I think if more people did that—no matter the weapon—we’d all be better off. There is simply no substitute for accuracy.

                          You asked if others had similar self-imposed standards, and the answer for me is yes. I use a basic 2/3 rule, meaning the longest shot I’ll take at a medium or big game animal is 2/3 the distance I can keep all my arrows—sans the rare occasional flyer—in a target the size of its kill zone. For example, if I can’t keep all my broadheads within the 8 ring of a 3D deer target at 30 yards, I won’t attempt to shoot a real one at 20.

                          Probably the best piece of advice I could give you right off the cuff is to remember that archery fundamentals don’t change just because your new bow doesn’t have cams at the ends of its limbs. If you are a good shooter with a compound there’s no reason you can’t easily transition that ability into a recurve—form is form, and archery is archery. The only things that truly have to change for most people switching from compounds to recurves is how they release the string (mechanical release versus fingers) and how they aim (sights versus barebow). Don’t overcomplicate things by thinking the knowledge you’ve gained with a compound doesn’t transition into a recurve.

                          Jason Wesbrock
                          Member
                            Post count: 762

                            While the Samick Sage is a nice bow, it’s not high performance, even less so with the factory string. If you want to go with carbon, I would suggest Gold Tip Traditional shafts in 1535 size. They have a .600 deflection, which may still require a somewhat heavy head to get weak enough for your bow. A few online vendors sell blemished shafts, which have minor cosmetic flaws, for a very reasonable price.

                            Jason Wesbrock
                            Member
                              Post count: 762
                              in reply to: ratio #14135

                              For average whitetail, I get about 1/3 dressed weight in deboned, lean meat. That means nothing added to ground meat. For large bucks in the rut, that percentage is slightly higher due to the amount of meat in the neck.

                              Jason Wesbrock
                              Member
                                Post count: 762
                                in reply to: Grip vs form #57784

                                A low wrist with excessive heel pressure pushes the bottom of the bow away, tipping the bow upward. A tight high wrist does the opposite.

                                Jason Wesbrock
                                Member
                                  Post count: 762
                                  in reply to: Grip vs form #56621

                                  Generally speaking, a high wrist will cause a lower point of impact, especially if you grip the bow tightly. A low wrist with excessive heel pressure will make the arrows impact higher.

                                Viewing 15 posts - 151 through 165 (of 759 total)