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  • handirifle
      Post count: 409
      in reply to: Cougar tips? #36572

      Cougars in CA could be EASILY controlled with well regulated sport hunting, and the resulting gain in funds to the DFW. Costs to kill “problem” cougars are an unnecessary expenditure. The DFW could limit the number of animals taken just like thy do bears and close the season when the number is reached. Plus limited sales of tags, on a draw basis would further add to available funds for their protection.

      Junk science, just like that used to make the “condor zone” was at play and it was almost entirely a political move. The anti’s poured millions into misleading campaign ads, and the rest is history.

      Prey species that are TRUELY in trouble have suffered more than humans. Desert bighorn sheep herds have been decimated, after years of hard work by DFW and volunteers to bring the herds to a close resemblance of a sustainable herd. The anti’s don’t care. Just like the wolf problem up north.

      Personally I think fines are a bad idea. They are doing nothing illegal, but in cases like pointed out on this forum, the DFW ought to use common sense and simply relocate the animal, or ignore the complaint.

      The number of lions killed by DFW each year in CA is posted on the Commissions web site.

      To the OP, how well do you know these ranchers? Are you sure there really IS a problem, and they are not just wanting YOU to kill them and possibly take the heat from the state, if you are successful? The fact that they do not want to call is an alarm to me.

      handirifle
        Post count: 409

        dwcphoto wrote: See if you can ring up Troy on this issue. He was a great help for me when I went high FOC. dwc

        Thanks, I forgot to update this thread. I figured it out. It was hitting the “rug” rest on the shelf. The mat on the rest was fairly thick. I have since changed it and get very good bare shaft flight now.

        handirifle
          Post count: 409
          in reply to: Shooting Gloves #31008

          I had to look up the dura glove. I shoot the double layer leather version, but they do wear out in a few years, at least for me.

          When this one does, I will replace it with a dura glove.

          handirifle
            Post count: 409
            in reply to: Shooting Gloves #30992

            Steve Graf wrote: I’ve got a whole box full of gloves / tabs. I always end up back with the damascus glove. I cut the tip out of the middle finger, which I place against an eyetooth for anchor.

            Soooo, when you’re done shooting, your teeth are clean too? 😀 Now THAT’S multitasking!

            With my luck I’d be shooting and do an extraction:shock:

            handirifle
              Post count: 409

              If it were me, I’d send them back. Especially since it seems to be the standard procedure to send out crap for shafts. As pointed out GOOD ash shafts can be made, would probably cost twice as much, but to sell junk and expect someone to keep it is bogus.

              I do not care who the business is, or their past, if I buy some arrow woods, I expect them straight, or at least reasonably so, but 16 of 18 with big bends is too much.

              Would you accept bent broadheads cause “that’s just how they end up when I get them”? Quality is quality. If it is lacking, send them packing!

              If dealers realize customers will not accept garbage for arrows, they will not sell garbage. If all they can get in ash is crooked wood, then a disclaimer out to be clearly stated or don’t sell them, period.

              Would you accept a self bow with twisted limbs? “Oh sorry, but that’s how that wood grows”, nope I don’t buy that for a minute.

              I bet you paid extra for ash as well huh?

              handirifle
                Post count: 409

                Well I have FINALLY solved the riddle of this bow. It was the shelf material. I peeled the old rest off and tried a bare shaft, and whoopee! That did it! The stuff was reminiscent of the Bear Hair rests of old, so that was why I bought it in the first place, kinda old school but it was pretty thick.

                On the vertical portion, it was peeling off some, so I took off the outer layer of the vertical portion. I left the under layer because it was holding fast, and it has the toothpick in place.

                The toothpick is mounted vertically from the shelf up. It’s only about 1/2″ long. The idea for that came from the same place I first learned to bare shaft tune, and that was Ken Becks “Tour and Tuning” video. In that he shows some excellent slow mo video of arrow paradox, and you can see the tuning take place as he keeps shortening the arrow.

                His theory is the toothpick keeps the shaft from making excessive contact with the riser of the bow, thus minimizing interference.

                I cleaned it all with acetone and I fitted and placed new mole skin on it. I know mole skin is kinda thin, but it’s what I had and it works. I will just have to keep an eye on it for wear.

                I tried a few arrows, bare and fletched, and I CAN see a difference. I am jazzed!

                My 15yd groups are starting to rival my groups from my Mathews, with all it’s bells and whistles. I know once the target goes back to 20yds and beyond, there is not gonna be similar groupings, but I do expect improvements from my old shooting.

                I may never, with my hunting skills, get a shot at a deer with my recurve, but I will surely be ready!

                Thanks for all the tips and suggestions, here, and hopefully my stumblings will help someone else along the road.

                handirifle
                  Post count: 409

                  Now that’s a thought. I will have to give it a try. Thanks for the idea.

                  handirifle
                    Post count: 409

                    Yea I really knew better too. When I tuned the Root bow, I mentioned, that was almost 20 years ago, just stubborn I guess.

                    I’m gonna work on the arrow shelf today and see if I can make improvements.

                    handirifle
                      Post count: 409

                      I see no difference from gun hunting or bow hunting. To me, it’s all in the ethics one uses when hunting. It matters not the weapon used.

                      I would not take a shot I do not feel certain of succeeding in. That being said, I like anyone else that has hunted and shot game, have had things happen to cause a less than perfect shot. I have lost animals when archery hunting, after several days of tracking, sometime over miles of ground. Bad hit? Yes. Bad shot, possibly, but in every case I can still see the animals make a move just at release.

                      I have never lost a firearm shot deer. Which is more ethical?

                      There have always been unethical people that kill game with any means possible, with no regard for the ethics of fair chase, or whether or not the shot is a high percentage one. It’s all a numbers game to them. To me, it’s meat on the table so every effort is made to recover every game animal shot.

                      I believe ethics are more than the weapon, it’s a mindset. When folks have zero issues with SOOOO many moral standards, do we really expect their hunting ethics to be different?

                      I won’t post details, but to me, it’s really no surprise this is a growing trend.

                      handirifle
                        Post count: 409

                        Great! Glad to hear it. At least I was on the right track with the tapered idea.

                        Good luck on the hunt.

                        handirifle
                          Post count: 409

                          David,

                          I was reading this over again and being a person that also likes to tinker (some, or most, of the time mine turn out to be a big waste of time and cranial calories) and wondered what if you either sand or turn on a lathe or similar, the back 1/2″ or so of the 4″ sleeve to a fine thin edge. This would ease the bump on the draw.

                          Another thought would be to lace up the shaft behind the sleeve to build it up to sleeve dia. I’d suggest using a fine nylon sewing thread, since this would make the transition easier. Then seal it with fletching glue or similar.

                          What would add a HUGE amount of strength, in my mind anyway, is finding a way to put a taper on the front of the sleeve to glue the head directly to the sleeve, then slide the sleeve over the shaft.

                          Anyway, those are my thoughts, hopefully you figure out something.

                          handirifle
                            Post count: 409
                            in reply to: Hammerhead test #26084

                            OK, thanks. Just another marble rattling around that had to be heard.:lol:

                            I figure if you throw out enough marbles, eventually one might connect.

                            handirifle
                              Post count: 409

                              Well based on the replies on other threads, they agree with you. So the only other idea I can come up with is radiusing the shelf to see what, if any, effect that might have.

                              handirifle
                                Post count: 409

                                Well I was wondering, hoping maybe. I have adjusted the vertical about 3/4″ from top to bottom, and the 2″ deviation I mentioned is the best it gets.

                                This winter I may work on the bow riser to reduce the amount of contact the arrow makes with the shelf. I have tried the toothpick under the pad method, but it doesn’t seem to be doing much. I have done this to risers before I have been happy with the results. But for now I don’t want to mess up what I have.

                                handirifle
                                  Post count: 409

                                  Doc Nock

                                  Just curious. When the string stretched before, when the flight was affected, did it by chance have any effect on whether or not it kick the tail up or down?

                                  I keep getting tail high from this bow, and wondering if brace height will change that.

                                Viewing 15 posts - 121 through 135 (of 375 total)