[donw]

in reply to: Any Stringmakers out there? #55222

:)…once you learn how to make the flemish…it’s hard to think about going to the endless loop again, isn’t it?

i prefer the two bundle as they’re easier to make than three and four bundle…but nevertheless…great fun to make.

one thing many overlook abpout the flemish is you may “adjust” by unwinding and rewinding, them if you so desire.

[donw]

in reply to: Shooting Glove #51918

if you’re in doubt about making your own and would rather have one custom made contact americanleathers.com.

they will take a pattern from your hand and make one specifically for you.

[donw]

in reply to: To burn or cut is the question? #48671

i’ve watched and listened to many interesting and informative debates about length and heigth of fletches over the years.

plastic vanes vs feathers

short vs long

helical vs straight vs diagonal

right vs left

now the most recent, it’s back to the tiny 1.5″ vanes in a straight configuration…(this is normally for the fast shooting wheel bows, though.)

what it comes down to, once again, is what YOU determine YOU like best and what works best for you.

in years past, i’ve found that from my longbow, 5.5″ feathers in a low cut sheild or parabolic cut work wonderfully…from my recurves…4.75″-5.0″ low cut parabolics work wonderfully.

in the end, it’s been my bow setup that determines the size of the feather: finger release, larger feathers, mechanical release aid, smaller feathers.

a finger released arrow will require more of a recovery than one released via mechanical release aid as it has more of an archers paradox and is subjected to more variables than one shot with a release aid; larger feathers aid in faster recovery.

basically, what i’m trying to say is that there is no ONE pat answer for your question. trial and error will determine your final set-up.

[donw]

in reply to: quiver position #45085

i’ve never tried it but i’ve seen some that look like they work ok…i think the way they mount on the bow would be important insofaras balance.

[donw]

in reply to: Eagles' Flight Quivers #45080

good bow quiver set up…

[donw]

in reply to: VANES or FEATHERS ?? #45067

i haven’t shot a ‘vane’ since aproximately 1985.

IMO…the only advantage a plastic/synthetic vane has over a feather is the weatherproof factor.

[donw]

in reply to: Your Maximum Yardage #45052

wow! some really good and well thought out responses.

i’m in the ‘school’ of “i have no real set limit’ of my distance”

i cannot remember the man’s name, but a few years back, when the martin dynabow was popular, this man was regularly taking game, big game, at 110 yards…he had a 110 yard pin on his bow.

my mentor, the late rube powell, 5 time NFAA champion and avid bowhunter taught me that “you can kill them at 100 yards IF you can hit them properly.”

fred bear, ben pearson, pope and young, art laha, howard hill, jack howard and many others all took game at ‘long distance’…does that mean i will try? not really.

i can’t give an intelligent answer to “how far” is right for me, let alone others. but basically, i feel IF i can place the razor sharp broadhead in the vitals, that’s the distance…

MHO…:wink::D

[donw]

in reply to: Proper grip for longbow shooting #45039

i found the ‘suitcase’, or low-wrist/heeling, if you prefer, grip more suitable for shooting a longbow.

where i like longbows, i prefer the recurves for that very reason; i find it difficult to grip the longbow as they should be to be shot properly and accurately. the recurve handles suit my shooting form better with less effort.

i found, in my case, the ‘compression’ of full draw with a longbow, on my hand would cause the bow hand to “spring” forward on release sometimes resulting in some undesired results.

[donw]

in reply to: Holding at full draw #43458

greatreearcher…

i do indeed use a “gap” method. i “gap” the target in the sight window using the arrow and the sight window for elevation and windage and yes, i hold as long as it takes for me to think i’m where i want to be in order to hit the target.

i was taught that the bow must be held ON TARGET (follow up) until the arrow strikes the target and that if you are in movement or not solidly anchored, the arrow will go exactly where you are aiming at release. therefore; anchor solidly, AIM, release and follow thru. the arrow shelf/rest is what determines where the arrow goes once released.

time at anchor is what you determine is best in YOUR application for YOUR shooting accuracy.

my recurves are set up for shooting: off the shelf, no sights, no stabilizers.

i use a mechancical release aid and i cant the bow at a slight angle.

[donw]

in reply to: Holding at full draw #41714

i was taught, by rube powell, to draw, anchor, AIM, release and follow thru.

he also taught me that in order to HIT your intended target, you had to AIM…to aim takes time. whether you shoot with, or without, sighting devices.

i hold as long as it takes me to aim my shot. (ideally speaking, of course)

[donw]

in reply to: opinions on X Block broadhead sharpener #41685

KME is THE way to go…

[donw]

in reply to: Short Longbows? #41682

i always found “long” bows easier on my fingers…but…i have ‘polish sausage’ fingers that cover nearly 3″ of string when gripping the string…YIKES!

if you can, try bows of different length before purchasing; it may, or may not, make a difference to you.

[donw]

in reply to: string lenght #41671

beware of twisting/untwisting a flemish string…(if you choose to use a flemish)…untwisting it could result in it coming apart…:(

[donw]

in reply to: Sites on a recurve? #27121

i’d like to add that whether or not you choose to us sights on your recurve it’s your form and YOU that determine final accuracy.

jack howard used sights on his recurve and regularly took big game at sixty yards and beyond, as an example.

howard hill and saxon and pope all regularly shot at one hundred yards without sights and took big game.

again…practice, form and consistancy are what determine accuracy.

[donw]

in reply to: Quivers #52460

i’m with Ragman…

i use bowquiver for broadheads and the back quiver for blunts and fieldtips

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