[David Petersen]

in reply to: PBS and Portland in March? #62654

Bruce — Thanks for asking, but I won’t be making that one either. When you get there, tell them for me to “keep your boots on the ground and your heads in the grassroots.” I’m attending PBS because I’m a big supporter of TBM, and TBM is a big supporter of PBS. The one I’m sorry I can’t make every year is Kalamazoo, and several of the state annual banquets I’ve attended, east to west. And likely others I’ve not yet attended. Bottom line is I hate hate hate to fly, and March is often our heaviest snow month here and I don’t want to leave my lovely bride stuck up here alone to deal with it.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: PBS and Portland in March? #62641

Thanks for asking, but I’m not a CBA guy.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: The question of weight in our minds #62631

Wahoo — While I agree with Troy, if getting “that little bit heavier” head or arrow set-up forces you to change arrows,retune, etc. and you want to stay with your current sticks and you’re hunting nothing bigger or tougher than deer and getting good penetration and recovery, I’d just make sure you’re shooting the best two-blade (and ideally, single-bevel) you can find in 125 grains and keep on keeping on. At 650 grains, you’re at least a hundred grains ahead of most “just deer” hunters today. Of course, there are variables. For instance if you have enough left-over shaft to trim back even half an inch, you can likely up the head weight and gain FOC with the same shafts. Experimentation is fun.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Coues kill — arrow set-up #62402

Ed — As an experiment, could I cut the front inch or so off some 5″ feathers already on arrows to see how little I can get away with and still have perfect flight? Or is the shape of the A&A, straight-back etc., an essential part of the formula? I shoot almost exclusively broadheads that are long and narrow, like the Tuffhead, so should need minimal feather pressure to counteract minimal wind-drift. My fletchings are pretty standard with mild offset and no helical. Thanks, dave

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Short Bows #62240

Another vote for the Lil Favorite, if you want a recurve. I owned one briefly and it was flawless in every way — smooth, fast, quiet — and all Shrew are a pleasure to gaze upon and hold. I sold it only because I already had two Classic Hunters and can’t afford to own three top-end bows. Because of the economy (and likely, impatience) some of the folks on the previously year-plus list have dropped out. That may make the wait a little shorter. Also, Gregg (bowyer) always makes a few to sell at Kalamazoo. Maybe you can designate a friend who is attending to let you know what’s available there. Third, you can ask Ron to put you on the list for bows that come in off-weight sufficiently that Gregg has to build another one and briefly has an extra to sell (that’s how I got my Lil Favorite). Finally, run a wanted ad here and in other classified sites. If you’re willing to be a little flexible on features you might find a good deal. But keep in mind that Shrews hold their value extremely well and as the waiting list has grown and prices crept up a bit (still a relative bargain) some used Shrews have sold for more than their original price. If you want to pinch pennies, consider a Grayling-era Bear K-mag. They’re 52″, not hard to find, and while not in the category of a Shrew, can be excellent short bows. I own one in prime condition, 1968 vintage, that I paid $200 for. Enjoy the hunt. Dave

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Strap-on tree steps #61610

Hold it — I’m supposed to take tree-climbing advice from a fellow named “Fallguy”? Ho! 😛 Seriously, thanks for the tip. I may be on to a deal on some like-new strap-on steps, but if that fails I’ll likely go another route and I’ll be sure to check Gander Mtn. which is not normally on my list. Thanks, Dave (aka Treetop Flier).

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Strap-on tree steps #61184

Thanks for all the good tips, friends. Steve, I like the looks of these rails and found another brand for $50 a set at a non-C-word outlet. If I “win” the tree stand I’m bidding on at e-bay, I’ll buy the rails. Next will be some sort of affordable effective safety harness system, since it appears I have torn a rotator cuff from my recent attempt to fly from a tree, and may need shoulder surgery, which could keep me in a sling until turkey season. But maybe it won’t be that bad. I’ll find out with an MRI next week. Dave

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Strap-on tree steps #60348

Thanks, David. I checked 3Rivers online and couldn’t find any such. In fact I did a google search and lots of places claimed to have them but did not when I checked the sites. No biggie. If they’re too expensive and/or heavy/bulky I won’t get them anyhow. And no need for them until next fall. Maybe some used ones will show up; I’ve got an ad in the classifieds here. I just figured I could put up and take down a stand much faster with strap-ons. Thanks, Dave

[David Petersen]

in reply to: New heavyweight Tuffhead is here #59215

Rick — I’ll drop you a pm or give a phone call so we don’t bore everyone with my personal stats. Much thanks.

King David — One thing about your hog kills (and the deer pics I’ve seen as well) is that you never have to hang ’em and cut their throats to know they are completely bled out! 😛

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Coues kill — arrow set-up #59124

Always great to hear from you, David, and hear your deeply experienced views. Man, 35% UFOC in 740 grains! I built up some lodgepole pine footed hex shafts with 2″ aluminum sleeves to strengthen the shaft fronts and allow screw-in points. But they’re way heavy and I can only find aluminum adapters so they’re potentially weak and I can barely squeak 20% from them. Never thought about reinforcing carbon shafts with aluminum sleeves. I assume you use brass adapters? You and Ed both are likely correct about the spine hit being more direct. I presumed a glance off the bottom of the spine since the arrow made a strong turn downward through a lung. Damn stupid of me not to inspect it. After falling from a tree and killing a nice Coues, I think I was even more dazed and confused than usual. Dave

[David Petersen]

in reply to: New heavyweight Tuffhead is here #59113

Will do re Hildebrand, Troy; thanks.

Rick — I’m happy to send you a 300 grain field point if you have time to mess with it. You know how it is when you get hot for a new toy … the rush is on. 😆

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Can I Use Same Arrows? #59112

Just shoot a few and see what happens. But first, find a reliable scale and check the true draw weight of the Bear. The old ones are notorious for being off, sometimes way off, either direction. You may have to go up or down in point weight to compensate, but I’ll bet they’ll work. Cheap and easy to find out.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Personal Philosophies #59109

Well, I was going to say: “What Smithhammer said! Except I ain’t no stinkin’ saggytaurus.” But Mudd Foot beat me to it, oh well.

Welcome to tradbow.com, Sweet T.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: New heavyweight Tuffhead is here #58773

Rick and Troy (and welcome back, Rick!) — I have vowed to avoid 23/64 shafts forevermore. My reasons may suck — for one thing they expand the rubber grips in my bow quivert to the point that smaller shafts rattle around, and too, many glue-on heads are sized for 11/32. Anyhow and no matter, 23/64 are out for me. My bows are a 50# osage selfbow that pulls 55# on my scale, a 52# Bear K-Mag, and primarily, first and foremost, a #53 Shrew Classic Hunter (short r/d longbow). I draw 28″ and like arrows measuring 29.5″ nock to back of head, and the Tuffheads will glue on deep since they’re sized to take 23/64 and smaller with a very long ferule. I’m guessing a starting point of around 65# spine in shafts that weigh 350-400, if that’s possible. Rick — are you actively back in the arrowsmithing trade? Sure hope so. Dave

[David Petersen]

in reply to: New heavyweight Tuffhead is here #57695

Yes, it’s time I give Sitka Spruce a try, thanks.

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