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in reply to: Strap-on tree steps #63469
Steve, brother I’m with you on preferring the ground! With elk and mule deer and the right habitat conditions, it’s entirely doable and that’s how I’ve always done it. But I’m just getting back into whitetails, and since we don’t have them here, it means expensive travel and a limited time to hunt, more often than not on public land, so tree stands seem all but mandatory. If I had my own private whitetail patch I would construct brush blinds all over the place so that I could deal with shifting wind patterns. But that ain’t likely to happen unless someone here has a near-giveaway whitey hotspot they want trade for books 😛 And too, being new to tree stands, I’m enjoying the enhanced visibility you get up there and the greatly increased freedom to be — let’s face it — relaxed with lots more room for movement compared to on the ground. So I’ll likely keep at it, once or twice a year, but with a far greater respect for gravity henceforth. Dave (aka Treetop Flier)
in reply to: The question of weight in our minds #63463Hoodoo, uh, I mean Wahoo 😛 —
If you’re hunting elk, all is changed. If you have to buy new arrows to get the weight and FOC you need, so be it. I feel adamently, via long personal experience, that the Ashby Study is dead-on in it’s recommendation of a minimum of 650 grains total arrow weight, a strong two-blade broadhead (preferably single-bevel) and as much FOC as you can get. This is relatively easy with carbon shafts as they are so light and strong and have such a wide range of spine. My current carbon elk set-up is 791 total weight with CE250 shafts, 225 Tuffhead with 100 insert and 125 adapter for EFOC about 27%. For deer I drop back 75 grains in the point but am still well over the 650 “minimum heavy-bone” busting weight with good FOC. This from bows averaging 53# draw at 28″.
But you are talking wood, and with the release of the 300 Tuffhead and predictably several emulators to follow, I’m anxious to try and get back to wood. So I’m working with Rick “Fletcher” Stillman (The Feathered Shaft) for a test set of light-side Sitka spruce shafts, single-tapered, with 3×3″ A&A feathers, somewhere in the 75-90# spine range. The goal is to hold the weight to 650-700 total with a 300 head and a min. of 20% FOC. Rick, who’s not only a great fletcher but also a mathematician, thinks it’s possible. We’ll soon see, and if anyone here is interested we can share the results.
Bottom line, Wahoo, is that I fear you’ll never get the spine you need for a nearly fool-proof wood elk arrow with your current shafts. While I’d much rather shoot wood and won’t rest until I find the right combo (with the help of innovators like Tuffhead who increasingly are studying Ashby and offering products to help make it possible). But I put max lethality first, as the animals we hunt should always come first, and if it takes carbon shafts to assure that, I’ll shoot carbons. But once again, experimentation is always fun and not necessarily that expensve. (Think about what a single meal out with the family costs, and all the archery gear you could buy and enjoy for years for the price of that one fleeting mediocre meal.) Gotta go now, to beat the damnable time-out monster.
in reply to: PBS and Portland in March? #62654Bruce — Thanks for asking, but I won’t be making that one either. When you get there, tell them for me to “keep your boots on the ground and your heads in the grassroots.” I’m attending PBS because I’m a big supporter of TBM, and TBM is a big supporter of PBS. The one I’m sorry I can’t make every year is Kalamazoo, and several of the state annual banquets I’ve attended, east to west. And likely others I’ve not yet attended. Bottom line is I hate hate hate to fly, and March is often our heaviest snow month here and I don’t want to leave my lovely bride stuck up here alone to deal with it.
in reply to: PBS and Portland in March? #62641Thanks for asking, but I’m not a CBA guy.
in reply to: The question of weight in our minds #62631Wahoo — While I agree with Troy, if getting “that little bit heavier” head or arrow set-up forces you to change arrows,retune, etc. and you want to stay with your current sticks and you’re hunting nothing bigger or tougher than deer and getting good penetration and recovery, I’d just make sure you’re shooting the best two-blade (and ideally, single-bevel) you can find in 125 grains and keep on keeping on. At 650 grains, you’re at least a hundred grains ahead of most “just deer” hunters today. Of course, there are variables. For instance if you have enough left-over shaft to trim back even half an inch, you can likely up the head weight and gain FOC with the same shafts. Experimentation is fun.
in reply to: Coues kill — arrow set-up #62402Ed — As an experiment, could I cut the front inch or so off some 5″ feathers already on arrows to see how little I can get away with and still have perfect flight? Or is the shape of the A&A, straight-back etc., an essential part of the formula? I shoot almost exclusively broadheads that are long and narrow, like the Tuffhead, so should need minimal feather pressure to counteract minimal wind-drift. My fletchings are pretty standard with mild offset and no helical. Thanks, dave
in reply to: Short Bows #62240Another vote for the Lil Favorite, if you want a recurve. I owned one briefly and it was flawless in every way — smooth, fast, quiet — and all Shrew are a pleasure to gaze upon and hold. I sold it only because I already had two Classic Hunters and can’t afford to own three top-end bows. Because of the economy (and likely, impatience) some of the folks on the previously year-plus list have dropped out. That may make the wait a little shorter. Also, Gregg (bowyer) always makes a few to sell at Kalamazoo. Maybe you can designate a friend who is attending to let you know what’s available there. Third, you can ask Ron to put you on the list for bows that come in off-weight sufficiently that Gregg has to build another one and briefly has an extra to sell (that’s how I got my Lil Favorite). Finally, run a wanted ad here and in other classified sites. If you’re willing to be a little flexible on features you might find a good deal. But keep in mind that Shrews hold their value extremely well and as the waiting list has grown and prices crept up a bit (still a relative bargain) some used Shrews have sold for more than their original price. If you want to pinch pennies, consider a Grayling-era Bear K-mag. They’re 52″, not hard to find, and while not in the category of a Shrew, can be excellent short bows. I own one in prime condition, 1968 vintage, that I paid $200 for. Enjoy the hunt. Dave
in reply to: Strap-on tree steps #61610Hold it — I’m supposed to take tree-climbing advice from a fellow named “Fallguy”? Ho! 😛 Seriously, thanks for the tip. I may be on to a deal on some like-new strap-on steps, but if that fails I’ll likely go another route and I’ll be sure to check Gander Mtn. which is not normally on my list. Thanks, Dave (aka Treetop Flier).
in reply to: Strap-on tree steps #61184Thanks for all the good tips, friends. Steve, I like the looks of these rails and found another brand for $50 a set at a non-C-word outlet. If I “win” the tree stand I’m bidding on at e-bay, I’ll buy the rails. Next will be some sort of affordable effective safety harness system, since it appears I have torn a rotator cuff from my recent attempt to fly from a tree, and may need shoulder surgery, which could keep me in a sling until turkey season. But maybe it won’t be that bad. I’ll find out with an MRI next week. Dave
in reply to: Strap-on tree steps #60348Thanks, David. I checked 3Rivers online and couldn’t find any such. In fact I did a google search and lots of places claimed to have them but did not when I checked the sites. No biggie. If they’re too expensive and/or heavy/bulky I won’t get them anyhow. And no need for them until next fall. Maybe some used ones will show up; I’ve got an ad in the classifieds here. I just figured I could put up and take down a stand much faster with strap-ons. Thanks, Dave
in reply to: New heavyweight Tuffhead is here #59215Rick — I’ll drop you a pm or give a phone call so we don’t bore everyone with my personal stats. Much thanks.
King David — One thing about your hog kills (and the deer pics I’ve seen as well) is that you never have to hang ’em and cut their throats to know they are completely bled out! 😛
in reply to: Coues kill — arrow set-up #59124Always great to hear from you, David, and hear your deeply experienced views. Man, 35% UFOC in 740 grains! I built up some lodgepole pine footed hex shafts with 2″ aluminum sleeves to strengthen the shaft fronts and allow screw-in points. But they’re way heavy and I can only find aluminum adapters so they’re potentially weak and I can barely squeak 20% from them. Never thought about reinforcing carbon shafts with aluminum sleeves. I assume you use brass adapters? You and Ed both are likely correct about the spine hit being more direct. I presumed a glance off the bottom of the spine since the arrow made a strong turn downward through a lung. Damn stupid of me not to inspect it. After falling from a tree and killing a nice Coues, I think I was even more dazed and confused than usual. Dave
in reply to: New heavyweight Tuffhead is here #59113Will do re Hildebrand, Troy; thanks.
Rick — I’m happy to send you a 300 grain field point if you have time to mess with it. You know how it is when you get hot for a new toy … the rush is on. 😆
in reply to: Can I Use Same Arrows? #59112Just shoot a few and see what happens. But first, find a reliable scale and check the true draw weight of the Bear. The old ones are notorious for being off, sometimes way off, either direction. You may have to go up or down in point weight to compensate, but I’ll bet they’ll work. Cheap and easy to find out.
in reply to: Personal Philosophies #59109Well, I was going to say: “What Smithhammer said! Except I ain’t no stinkin’ saggytaurus.” But Mudd Foot beat me to it, oh well.
Welcome to tradbow.com, Sweet T.
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