[David Petersen]

in reply to: broadheads #22415

Steve, in my personal experience plus many others I’ve heard from over the years, it is broke. But then again my “ground zero” is elk. I’d be a lot less exacting if I hunted only deer and never ever had a failure to get lethal penetration, no matter what. No disrespect, nor even an argument amigo–I’m a big fan of yours–but the “if it ain’t broke” cliche would have us still stuck in the dark ages s if everyone had always gone by it. I’m with Scout, and I’m sure you are too, that there can be no such thing as excess in chosing trad gear that gives us the best crack at killing fast and cutting way down on wounding loss. And the broadhead always walks point. Selah, Dave

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Where Would You Live? #22406

Pleistocene northern Europe, yup.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: CO Elk Help Needed #19725

I second Smithhammer all the way, except to note that in Dr. Ashby’s extensive studies the “minimum heavy bone weight threshhold” for arrows is 650. And the lighter the bow, the more benefit you gain from heavier arrows and higher FOC. I shoot a 53# r/d longbow with 790 grain arrows and generally get pass-throughs on elk. That’s what we want! Get some test arrows and experiment to see how much weight you can shoot through your bow and maintain accuracy at 20 yards without excessive trajectory. The more of an arrow’s total weight that’s up front, the better flight and penetration you’ll get.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: carbon arrow broke upon release #19054

Both Ireland and Smithhammer offer good advice that I hope you take. In the early days of carbon arrows reports like this were not uncommon. But the product has been greatly improved and it’s quite rare now … except in cases where shafts have been nicked or otherwise damaged and weakened. I’d suggest that you send the pieces to the mfgr. so that they can closely inspect them. If this happened with any regularity I’d throw all my carbons out and return to woods (never like alums). I’ve had two CE250s break off, very clean breaks with no threads, etc., inside animals, in both cases when most of the arrow was sticking out the far side and the animal ran past a tree. This is unusual today (except maybe with compound arrow launchers) and scary. We’ll all be waiting to learn what you find out.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: broadheads #15530

Andrew — I am personally sold on Tuffheads, but yes, they are among the premiere and therefore pricey brands. I haven’t personally checked it out yet but I hear on good authority that Zipper, the new owner of Grizzly broadheads, is or soon will be selling their improved versions for about the price you quote, but for 6! If so, and if they’re hunting sharp out of the package, like the Tuffhead and a growing number of others are (that is, sharpened by KME or another top-end honer)they will be giving all other brands a perhaps market-shaking run for the money. I don’t know if they will offer screw-ins, but if that’s what you need you can always use adapters, as I do with the Tuffhead. You could start by giving Zipper a call. Keep us posted. Dave

[David Petersen]

in reply to: MA and FOC in Sioux buffalo arrows #10885

That could be why several of the tips are broken off. 😛

[David Petersen]

in reply to: MA and FOC in Sioux buffalo arrows #10224

They appear very long also. And Plains tribes tended to use fairly short bows for horse-mounted bison hunting, suggesting a lot of arrow projecting in front of the bow for even more FOC. Wonder if they knew about single-bevel? 😆

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Sometimes things get a little too good! #10219

Looks like you’re about due for a new target. That, or quit shooting at the center and shooting so well. My targets last a long time. 😀

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Sometimes things get a little too good! #10078

Good shooting, Ralph! I’m envious, having always wanted a Robin Hood but when I do put arrows that tight they tend to hit just behind the head and break there, ruining a shaft without the satisfaction of a RH. Get one more like that and you can change your handle from R2 to RH2. 😆

[David Petersen]

in reply to: SHREW BOW BOLT #8539

What Scout says. I’ve had mine a few years and it’s flawless.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Arrow rest replacement question. #60853

I bought a small roll for under $3 in black and it’s now on my bow. Really good sticky on back.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: My wife's new bow needs a name… #54130

“Bully Girl”

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Arrow rest replacement question. #54126

Eric — I would leave the tab under the grip and not worry about it. You can always smear a bit of glue over the cut place to seal things up.

Troy — I assume you use the fuzzy side of the Velcro, rather than the wirey side? I’m thinking about noise. If it’s quiet it’s a great idea. On my Shrew I currently have camo Curad band-aids for plate and rest. On my old Bear K-Mag the same thing but with a wooden match stick under the shelf “pad” which is not convex like the Shrew. Works, but doesn’t last long. If the Velcro is quiet I’ll put it on my Walmartian list, thanks. Dave

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Carbons for a 40#? #51850

I’d think the CE150, or equivalent, would do the job. At worst she might have to add some point weight, which would only add to accuracy.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: CO Elk Help Needed #51847

Dave – I applaud your willingness to walk away from the crowds. Just remember that for two guys to pack out an elk, boned, will be two trips down each (I don’t expect anyone else to do it as I’ve come to in recent years, two guys each with half an elk in a game bag slung over shoulder like Santa, one trip down) … which means two trips back up to camp and then packing out camp. Packing downhill in steep rocky terrain can be tough on the knees and even dangerous, so be prudent about how far you go in and how high. Go far enough to get away from the sound of motors, not only on roads but motorized trails especially, which are poison to elk. If you camp right along a horse and hiking trail you’ll never be completely alone. If you bushwhack off-trail you may not have to go that far to get into elk. Finally, be careful not to camp in the elk’s bedroom, a mistake I’ve seen hunters make since I was a kid.

And tempting as it is to get on with it, don’t come the first week of the season if you can any other option, as first week is the worst week. Second week of Sept. would by nature be the best week if the good old boys in Denver hadn’t filled the woods with rifle hunters, aka “black powder” (even though you can’t even buy black powder in most small towns these days, so totally has it shifted to Pyrodex etc.). With their aggressive hunting techniques, nonstop bugling and what seems the highest per capita use of ATVs in any big game season here, it not only ruins hunting that week but shuts up the elk for as much as a week after it’s done. Too many people wanting too much from too little resource, and agency flaks with too little spine to say no. Leave your bugles at home and burn any DVDs that make them appare a panacea. On a happy note, CO’s elk pops just keep growing. Enjoy

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