[David Petersen]

in reply to: What degree of bevel on Tusker Concordes? #27619

Schwein — some retailers are now offering Concordes custom-sharpened by KME. I’d call or email Ron for grind info. Good head that I’ve killed elk with, but the steel is only 50 Rc which I find too soft to front the really heavy arrows I shoot. Different folks have different needs.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Starting point #26794

Jim and Giggles — thanks for the info. I’m thinking they’re not for me and I’ll stick with Sitka spruce for now. But I do try to keep my eyes open for something better, 😯 so thanks for the leads and experienced info.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: PA deer opinion survey #24351

Yeah, it’s long. It came to me in an email from Duda as a one-page summary of the main points of interest to hunters. I wrote back and asked for a link to the summary, but they said there is none, but only a link to the full report. I considered not posting it, but figured there might be a few with enough interest to be willing to sort through the dross.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Starting point #23566

Giggles (and anyone else who knows anything about it) — I know less than nothing about bamboo as arrow shafting and am surprised to learn it can be that rigid in spine. Does it go up to 85#? What are its qualities, so far as straightness, ability to straighten, toughness (you already alluded to it being tougher than spruce and cedar, which doesn’t take much in the latter case, which I abandoned years ago), diameter, etc. Is there a website with reliable detailed info? I’ve always thought of boo arrows as an “exotic thing that primitive fans make for themselves, and assumed that if it was as good as wood (it’s grass, after all) it would be more popular. What are the ups and downs? You’ve got me curious now. Thanks for any info.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: I just bought my first longbow. #23208

Good one, Jim! 😆 You know, that’s why God created leashes! 😛

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Starting point #22424

You can also get them from Tuffhead directly … big brass artillery shell heads that fit on a shaft precisely like the broadheads and look like brass but seem indestructible, for both 225 and 300. Joe now also has hex blunts, my favorite. I don’t know about the new 190 Meathead size but that weight field point is easy to find.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: I just bought my first longbow. #22417

That’s a clean-looking little bow, Jim. I’m not familiar with the model, but it appears certainly to be a straight-limbed bow, rather than the more common deflex/reflex longbows so popular today. That means it will be a bit more picky about tuning and release, definitely not a beginner’s bow. But you’re no beginner and with patience you should make a great team.

As for Ralph, unless your profile age is several years out of date, you are not older than me but a comparatively young whipper-snapper attempting to appear more mature than you really are. And I’m getting even older really soon (funny how it happens all at once, like a clock whose minutes tick just once a minute rather than creeping evenly along), so you’ll never catch up. If you took up heavy drinking and smoking that would help speed the process for you, but even then … 😆

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Starting point #22238

Alex – Most spine charts, including 3Rivers, won’t work for guys like STex and me because point weights only go up to 190-200 grains on the charts, while we shoot much heavier heads. It would be nice if our trad suppliers, at least, updated the charts to include the heavier point weights rapidly gaining popularity today.

Your setup: With that 62# bow and heavy arrows and that broadhead, you should have a serious killing combo, worthy of anything in N. America.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Bunker Buster UEFOC arrow #22133

J — I’ve given up (a second time) on the wrapped shafts. The poly wears off rapidly, leading to fuzzing of the thread. And I fear exosy would crack — in fact if memory serves I tried that sometime back and it did crack. So for me at least, the search goes on for a way to strengthen the shaft just behind the head without causing other problems. As I coincidentally just mentioned on another thread, Kevin Forrester http://www.forresterwoodshafts.com offers some beautiful hardwood shafts at 23/64 at the head (perfect for the points you’re using) and tapering gradually back to either 11/32 or even 5/16. I’ve shot some and they fly well, but the hardwoods all are too heavy to deliver good FOC. For folks not worried about FOC but who want good weight and a strong “weak link” behind the head, they’re worth looking into.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Starting point #22127

Congrats on the gorgeous bow, amigo. I’ve had four of Gregg’s bows now, including one recurve, and currently (of course!) an Elkheart. While all shoot carbons and woods beautifully (no recycled beer cans for me), they seem to really like woods, especially the fat 23/64s I’ve been forced to go to in order to get the light weight shafts (for FOC) with spine enough to handle the 300 Tuffheads. (Could have to do with the degree of center cut, but I really have no idea.) My current setup is a 52# bow with 85 spine Sitka spruce arrows cut to 29.5″. Your bow is a touch lighter (though it could be a tad faster anyhow) and you want 225 rather than 300, so I’d say your opening guess is about right. If possible, get your chosen shafts in 65, 70, and 75 spine at your preferred length and go from there. More and more arrow makers and shaft suppliers are willing to sell such test kits. You didn’t say anything about variety of wood. If you want max FOC, Sitka offers the lightest wood with the highest spine. If you want more weight and don’t care about FOC so much, and want more slender shafts for the spine, some of the most gorgeous arrow woods I’ve ever seen are made by Kevin Forrester, a member here http://www.forresterwoodshafts.com. Check out his website. Among his offerings are innovative designs where the shaft is slender, down to 5/16, but the front section is 23/64 for a better fit with most broadheads, including the 225 Tuffies, with a slow almost invisible taper that comes off the bow shelf smoothly and should considerably strengthen the weak spot just behind the head. I hope that helps.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: The Election Buck #21269

Yes, he sure is! His “deformity,” along with the fact that you took him from the ground, makes him a double-decker trophy to my way of thinking. I wish they made more nontypical elk. At this rate I don’t think I’ll be vertical long enough to get one, as I’ve seen only one in my entire elking career and at 20 yards and drawing I was busted. The relative “abundance” of whitetail nontypicals (compared to muley or elk) is yet another reason to celebrate this “classic American deer.” Congratulations again, my friend.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: longer distances #18707

I totally agree and should have made that distinction between practice and hunting. Long-distance shooting for fun is … fun! The longer the better. I save otherwise useless arrows for shots out to 80 yards when stumping, knowing I may never see them again. And practicing at long range does improve shooting closer. The danger is when a shooter gets really good at shooting distant targets under controlled conditions then feels comfy to make similar shots at game, which is never a controlled situation. Unless we are shooting at 10,000 charging Frenchmen, the stickbow is a short-range weapon. And bowhunting is, ethically and aesthetically, a short-distance endeavor. Why else are we here? I once guided a repeat state champ shooter from New England who could stand in camp all day and shoot Robin Hoods at 35 yards, but had the dignity and self-control not to shoot at game beyond 20. It’s two different things, hunting and target shooting. IMHO

[David Petersen]

in reply to: 40 yards, Kodiak Mag, elevated rest. #18058

George, I am SO jealous of your shooting, and your ability to switch between bows and arrows and still be so good. It ain’t me.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: longer distances #18052

Shawn — Naahhh, no need for that. Practice getting closer rather than shooting farther. Close has always worked for me with elk down fast, while long rarely ever did, oh so long ago. 😀

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Does this sowbelly make me look old? #16867

Charlie — One doesn’t have to be old to appreciate vintage art. I mean, even as a young teenager I could appreciate Bridget Bardot, and she was WAY older than me. 😛 (Let’s not think about her now, as she hasn’t weathered as well as your new bow.) If I weren’t a charter member of the Coffey Club, I’d probably be shooting a ’60s vintage Bear Kodiak Magnum, the first really great really short bow, so far as I know. Good looks and good behavior, that’s all I ask of women or bows.

When you post pics, let’s see a shot of you shooting her, so that we can compare the two sowbellies. (As a typical “useless Elkheart trivia PS, the only place I know of where you can order sowbelly in a restaurant in the West today is Vernal, UT, not among my favorite places except that it’s on the way from here north to several of my favorite places. It’s basically big thick slabs of bacon, mostly fat, that hasn’t been smoked or otherwise cured.)

With apoligies to Smithhammer …

[Author]

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