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in reply to: A-lot of SNOW!!! #50986
Great for bunny hunting, except every arrow you shoot is gone until spring. 🙄
in reply to: My Apologies! #50982Youse guys are the best! 8):wink::lol: God knows how many other hunting sites are out there that love nothing better than to have their members beat the piss out of one another over every little diff in opinion. We come here, as we go to the woods, for a bit of calm and sanity … and still have a hoot-lot of fun. Thanks, dave
in reply to: Experimenting with EFOC is Expensive! #50187Well … taking this back to M’s original proclamation: “Experimenting with FOC is expensive!” Well, yes, but relative to what? In my humble life the fastest way to throw money away and damage my health all at once is, say, a Valentine’s dinner out … $120 easily in this tourist town, with drinks and tip. I can do a LOT of arrow experimenting with that, and live longer too! :lol::wink:8)
“It’s only money.”
in reply to: Woodie Weights #50182Buzzard — now you’ve hijacked your own thread! To wit:
“How can I make my arrows (wood/carbon/alum) easier to pull out of a 3d target?”
YOU didn’t ask that, but I’d like to know. I normally practice with plastic-packed burlap targets, as per a previous thread here … except when I’m testing experimental set-ups. But I have a friend with a killer 3d course that I like to shoot a few times right before turkey and elk/deer seasons … and woodies, esp., almost give me a hernia pulling out! Someone wants to retire rich, invent a 3D foam target that both stops arrows real well, takes thousands of shots before decomposing, and yet is easy to extract arrows from. Lots of luck. 🙄 dave
in reply to: tungsten-footed woodies; considerations #49849Clay — sharpening is a good idea! But I don’t have a grinder and that stuff is hard. I’ll give it a try, though, thanks. Yes, I use Duco. And hey pm me somtime about your spring research experiments. Maybe I can make it up this year. dave
in reply to: tungsten-footed woodies; considerations #49131Mark — here I expose my cowbow ignorance: I know what a horseshoe nail is, and I’ve heard about the Tennessee Stud. But what’s a horseshoe stud? If it’s a nail, do you cut the head off before inserting? Anyhow, please see my PM.
Indeed, no experiment is a failure … unless it involves your life or someone else’s, of course, but we won’t go there. Again, the trick with tungsten internal footings, aside from the cost, is to start with a light shaft so that the FoC will be higher and overall weight lower (but no less than 650 of course). I’ll get to the po cedar trail soon. I haven’t yet tried the angled tree shots with the tungsten inserts — my standard head-strength test — but will soon — my own snow depth is 5′ but I try to keep at least a short lane to the target tree shoveled clean. Anyone want to buy a Colorado cabin cheap? Gotta be strong and young and single or a couple only, with strong snowshoe legs and snowshovel arms. :wink::) I agree with the “logically self-evident” idea that a strong metal internal insert far enough into the front end of a shaft should strengthen it. Doc — I don’t recall you addressing this. Your thoughts? dave
in reply to: For those who love Footed Arrows #49124Indeed, an extraordinarily gorgeous shaft! What they cost per dozen?
King — I thought you were a knocked self-foot??? 😆
in reply to: Kalamazoo Traditional Bowhunters Expo #49121Well, Patrick, maybe you’ll take some stinkin’ Pictures this time! 😛
in reply to: tungsten-footed woodies; considerations #47970Ed, yes it can be cut with a hacksaw, easily. It’s so hard, it’s brittle. Put a stick in a vice marked where to cut, take a few strokes on it with a sharp hacksaw until it’s clearly notched, then grab the protruding end with pliers and it will snap right off.
For a brief update: I’ve now completed two arrows with tungsten inserts, both having started at about 460 grains, lodgepole pine hexshafts with hardwood footings. With 190 grain points these arrows had something like 13% FOC. With 3.5″ tungsten FOC went to just over 20% and total arrow weight a whopping 835 grains. Spine was unaffected and it still gives perfect arrow flight, though it does have the excessive trajectory you’d expect at that weight from a 55# bow.
The second shaft I used just 1″ of tungsten and got 18.65% FOC with a total weight of 748. Perfect arrow flight again and trajectory was acceptable at 20 yards but still more than I need (looking for 650-700).
To date, thus, I consider this a failed experiment given the cost of the drilling jig, $30, which has yet to provid a perfectly centered hole, the cost of the tungsten, and all the work. It also complicates tapering the shaft for a head.
If a guy still wanted to go this route — which should provide a far stronger shaft end than Woody Weights — he will need to start with a really light shaft. Since I have some tunsten left and bought the jig, I’ll next try it with po cedar.
Yes, you can buy it in different diameters, and in blends such as t-moly, t-copper that may be cheaper but not so heavy. dave
in reply to: Woodie Weights #47957Ah geeze, Buzzy — I wrote a way too long reply, recounting my experiences pro and con, then got “timed out” and the whole darn thing went to Mars. Just as well. I’ve asked Robin to see if that feature can be killed or at least muzzled somewhat. Meanwhile, I’ll cut right to the chase and suggest that you clean all metal parts –WWs and heads– really well with acetone before gluing, and try them for yourself. Best test is to shoot at a 45-degree angle into a tree or such. We’ll get different results bepending on such variable as bow weight and arrow speed, arrow weight and wood, diameter, etc., but I consistently had heads break off at double the usual rate on such angled impact shots, suggested they’d do the same on heavy bone. So I don’t hunt elk with them. You may have better results or less strenuous needs. They do get the FoC right up there, and if glued on properly they do fly well.
OK, I called the FWS spokesman and then read the entire notice in the Federal Register. It sounds pretty benign, with a fairly representative list of categories from which reps will be selected. Of course industry is over-represented, but that’s government today and always in America. I did write the heads of both BHA and TRCP (Teddy Roosevelt Conservation Partnership, a national sportsman conservation group based in MT) and urge them to submit applications to be on the panel, as per above — equal time for us “quality” folks vs. the “quantity” usual suspects. There is also a slot for an archery rep, and I don’t know how that will be filled. The closest thing trad has to a national organization is Comptoms and I’ll urge them to apply for a seat but something tell me they won’t. Trad bowhunting groups in general prefer to remain apolitical even when their/our feet are being burned. So it will likely go to P&Y or such. And frankly, these things are usually pro forma — that is, for appearance, feelgood and never have much if any influence. So end of this story, so far as I’m concerned, is nothing to worry about. But thanks for bringing it to our attention. dave
in reply to: Selfmade bow quivers? #45399Ahhhh — the inventiveness of some of you guys just staggers me. Applause!!! 😀
in reply to: cutting wood arrows #45389It’s hard to know what length to have your shafts pre-cut from the supplier, though through trail and error, it’s possible. If they offer to taper for you, go for it since they use a sanding jig that does a cleaner job than you can with a little hand taper tool, and with woods harder than cedar you can get serious hand cramps after tapering 24 angles! For cutting shafts I used a bandsaw, rolling the shaft as I push it through. A hacksaw works well too. I buy shafts full length, often 32″, so that I can cut them back as necessary to increase spine. That’s very basic. Someone else here will be able to explain it better. Like most aspects of tuning wood arrows and stickbows, there are various ways to go about getting to the same place … no simple formula and that’s part of the fun.
in reply to: Most Trouble Free Wood Shaft #45383If you haven’t already, check out Steve McD’s post on comparative shaft-wood qualities.
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