[David Petersen]

in reply to: Our Predecessors: 1946 Bows and Hunting, Etc. #24484

1946 — the year I was born. Oh geeze ….:(

[David Petersen]

in reply to: 1961 Factory Camo Grizzly. #24327

George — I can’t open your images either. And it seems that yours are the only ones coming through with an icon link, rather than as photos posted directly to the thread??? Perhaps our computer-wise Webmother can shed some light on it.

Meanwhile, maybe you, or another member reading this, can help me in what seems a lost-cause quest. I recently acquired a 1968 Bear K Mag from a fellow tradbow member. It’s in great shape except it has that darned ugly and useless screw-in attachment for quiver, stabilizer, etc. I would either like to pull it and plug the hole, or at least plug the hole with a bolt sawn off and capped with a small antler burl. It appears to be 5/16″ but the threads aren’t standard so I can’t find a bolt at the hardware store to match it. The factory responded promptly to my request but could be of no help at all — that’s ancient history to the current Bear folks. Surely there are thousands of bolt-on attachments lying around “out there” that have the proper bolt and can be had for cheap. Short question: do you have any such, or know of where I can find anything with the proper bolt? I’m not really interesting in playing Ebay but would rather buy or acquire from someone who has but isn’t using. Thanks, dp

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Wolf observation. #24316

Wahoo — for me, it’s chance encounters like that, the constantly lurking expectation of encountering the unexpected, the ambiance of mystery and possibility, that gives wildlands their magnetic draw. I feel sorry for anyone who is unable to rise above predator bias in order to feel the magic. There is wolf politics, which we could call “practical,” and there are wolves, which we could call “spirits.” They exist in the same canid body but are two entirely different beings. As with most of the best things in life, the tricky bit is attaining a sustainable balance. imho

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Thoughts on camo, fabrics, etc. #17768

I’d say you have a very reasonable approach to camo, Smithy. Years ago I quite buying camo-everything and started wearing dark pants–brown, green, black, anything dark–and as much as possible, dark plaid tops. That way if I need to run into the store on the way through town, or cafe or whatever, I don’t need to change clothes in order not to feel conspicuous. And I can weaar those hunting clothes for other uses as well so get double-duty from them. To my eyes from a distance, a dark plaid shirt is more invisible up against a big pine or hardwood tree than camo–just melts right into the bard. So for the kind of hunting I do most, sitting in the shade with a tree to my back, it’s actually superior to leafy patterns. But while dark plaid shirts of various weights, from light to button-up jackets, are easy to come by, not so t-shirt, hats, and hooded zip-up jackets, so I remain stuck with buying those in camo, for now. I’m of the “while camo can help, it’s not essential so long as you blend in” school. I’ll buy whatever is the cheapest, best made, has all the right pockets, is dark and blends in. The only color I’m aware of that research has shown all deer to be able to see is bright blue, like royal blue, esp. in dim light. Black bears apparently can see some colors too, like blue and red. If I could get away with doing all my shopping for hunting garb at thrift shops, I would. imho

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Arizona ez fletch #17758

Sorry, I’ve had a cheap plastic Bohning for years and am quite happy with it. Should be someone around here with AZ experience, though you may have noticed that things are really slow for website chat this time of year, with so much else going on. Be patient and someone will likely be along with the info you need. dp

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Happy Birthday Dave… #16481

Thanks, Wahoo. Belated works: last year my own wife didn’t remember it was my birthday until after lunch. 🙄 We have since quit drinking. 😆

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Shrew bow #14639

Scout — they have his first initial, G, in front of the serial number, followed by the sequence number for the particular model, then a dash, then month and year built. For instance, one of mine is G233-0608. That is, it’s the 233rd CH one-piece Gregg has built (my CH take-down has a separate number sequence), and it was built in June 2008. I’m not saying that pre-Coffey Shrews are no good, but rather that the Coffey-builts are(based on admittedly limited personal experience with the older models but years of hearing about them)in my opinion the best of the best.And they hold their price extremely well used, thanks in part to the exceptional quality of design and construction, but also to the long waiting list for a new one. dp

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Shrew bow #14547

Mike — I’d call Ron and ask his advice, not mine. What I do know is that the SSs come in 56-58-60″ lengths and have a 16″ handle riser length, while the CH’s have a 12″ riser and come in 52-54″ lengths with slightly redesigned limbs. So they aren’t the same bows at different lengths. Both of my Shrews are 54″ and are absolutely great at my 28″ draw and good, I believe, out to 30″, certainly 29. You haven’t said if you have any interest in a short bow. If not, I’d go with the SS at 60″. If so, I’d personally probably go with the 54″ CH rather than the 56″ SS, while the 58″ SS is a compromise. But do call Ron for his sage opinion. I’ve never yet shot a Coffey-built Shrew I didn’t love, any model. dave

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Shrew bow #14165

Mike — I would hunt anything on the continent with my #55 Classic Hunter with the appropriate arrow set-up. The primary differences between recurves and longbows, in the past, were that recurves could be shorter without string pinch or stacking, and also tend to be more forgiving of minor flaws in form. The advent and continued refinement of the deflex-reflex longbow limb, in which Shrew is a pioneer, has changed all that. Recurves still tend to have deeper hand grips, but the Shrews, like many modern longbows, offer a nice compromise that’s easily adapted to. But try to shoot one first, if you know anyone who has one. Despite all the exceptional features of the Shrews, not all archers can adapt to short bows. But then again, you can get a Super Shrew at standard lengths. But yet again, a short bow that performs in most ways as a longer bow is to me a primary draw to Shrew. And an amazing price, starting at $675 for most models. If you want a new one, get your name on the list right now and settle in for a long wait. If you get a used Shrew, be sure it was built by Gregg Coffey, who also makes the very cool JavaMan bows. I just checked the site and there are two new lefty Shrews available now without a wait: a Classic Hunter longbow and a Lil Favorite recurve. I have no idea why but there always seem to be more LH Shrews available than RH. Hope that helps, dave

Happy Shrew-heads at elk camp 2010: Dave Petersen, Alex Bugnon, Dave Sigurslid

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Bald Eagles 5-22-2011 #13335

Cool, Dennis! Great stop-motion. Thanks for sharing. dp

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Tradtional feather shape! #11958

And nice cresting, too. 😀

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Straw Target/backstop #10782

Roger — I can’t help with your question, but wanted to welcome you to Tradbow.com. Dave P.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: waterproofing #9701

Nordenrj — I have not tried this particular treatment, and others in past have suggested it. My first curiosity is: Does it have a detectable odor? Is it sticky and thus attracts dust and grime? If not, it sounds promising. Would love to hear from others who’ve tried it. dp

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Happy Birthday Dave… #9694

Thank you T and friends. For my 65 BD I got 8″ snow and still falling. Thus, prematurely, ends “spring” turkey season here. Unlike Don Thomas, a relative youngster, I don’t hunt turkeys on snowshoes. This will cost many hens their nests of eggs, recycling the gobbling … but too late here as the season ends Sunday and we’ll still be getting snow by then, from the looks of it. And the brand new elk calves … no slack for the wild things, you and me included. Cheers, dave

[David Petersen]

in reply to: waterproofing #8584

This is another oft-repeated thread question that I trust TBM will someday address in its new/forthcoming “Trailhead” column. For now, I use the white powder stuff, I think called Fletch Dry. It works great for light rain and snow, but won’t withstand a frog-choker. It’s weightless and greaseless. At some point in this discussion, someone usually comes on to say that they use nothing and have no problems with accuracy shooting wet feathers out to trad ranges. I’ve done it, but find the “Pop” and shower of cold water on release unenjoyable, and can’t help but think a few grams of water in your feathers won’t affect accuracy. But the powder waterproofer also pops and comes off in a cloud with the first shot. To minimize this, I always tap the shafts a few good raps to dislodge excess powder after dipping and rubbing in. I’ve tried duck oil and other liquid based treatments, including sprays, and find the powder to be the least opprobrious and most efficacious. :shock:8):lol: dp

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