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in reply to: Let's build a selfbow #56943
I didn’t get around to posting this yesterday, but I was able to draw a rough outline of the bow on the wood, split off the excess on one side of the stave, and drawknife down the sides pretty close to what the finished bow will look like straight on.
I start off by starting a hatchet at one end and driving it down with a hammer. This can be a rather risky thing to try as the split will often try to run into the stave(as we’ll see later). This piece of wood behaved remarkably well though. As you can see from the photo below I was able to split off a narrow piece that will one day make a fine kids bow.
After the excess was split off, I used a sharp draw knife to take the wood down to the line’s I’d drawn. A note on drawn lines – I usually draw an outline on the stave, but this is only a reference. The grain will dictate where the line should really be and you often won’t know that until you start in with the knife. If I go inside my line on one side, I just compensate by leaving a little extra on the opposite.
In the pic below, you can see a split trying to run into the stave and inside my line. From experience, I know that if I were to continue on with this split, it would curve over and angle into what will be the back of the bow (facing the camera)-(if that makes any since). If you’ve worked with osage much, you probably know what I’m saying. Anyway, I just backed the draw knife out and used a hatchet to take the split off before it ran any deeper. Easy fix if you catch it early.
Below is the stave after taking it down to the profile lines and smoothing it up with the draw knife.
You can see I’ve drawn the lines for taking wood off the belly side. Also you can see some back set:D This stave’s got about an inch and a half or so.
in reply to: Let's build a selfbow #55788A hole through a limb isn’t necessarily a bad thing. When a hole forms from a small branch or knot rotting out while the tree is alive, the tree compensates for it by adding wood around the weak spot. You can see that in the pics below.
Unfortunately, the holes made by these little grubs are a different matter entirely. There’s no additional wood to compensate for the weakness so we’ll have to decide on something to fill them with. I’ve never tried this before so I’m not sure how it’ll work. I was thinking of mixing epoxy and osage shavings but I’m up for suggestions. I also thought of whittling a little peg and super-gluing it in place.
There will be several holes in the bow, but only one will be in the working part of the limb. O the suspense. Has this little hole doomed this project before it was even started? I guess we’ll find out.
in reply to: Let's build a selfbow #54748Here’s something I forgot to mention earlier.
After I got the bark off I discovered these little SOB’s This piece of wood is riddled with holes but I think I’ll be able to lay the bow out to miss most of them. There will be one hole through the top limb. I haven’t figgured out how I’m gonna handle that one yet. We’ll just have to see when we get there.
in reply to: Dowling jig #54385It’s just a strait half inch bit. you could use whatever size bit you’ve got, you would just need to drill out a slot big enough to accomidate it.
Another thing, if you do a search on dowel makers, you can come up with all kinds of home made contraptions. If you’re fairly mechanicaly inclined, making one isn’t too hard.
ch
in reply to: Full length taper? #53344Duncan, I posted some pics on the “Trailhead”.
in reply to: Dowling jig #53341The hole you see in the top pick is the in feed. The shaft comes out the other end compressed and burnished at whatever diameter you make it. Mine’s 23/64. It takes a few broken shafts to get it adjusted, but once it’s there, you can make a shaft in about a minute.
The way it works: You chuck your square stock in your drill(or in the socket extension, then chuck that in the drill), insert the stock into the infeed, rotate the stock with the drill, and push it by the router bit. the combination of the drill and the router makes the square round. If you set the router to cut a tiny bit larger than your out feed, the end product will be compressed and burnished.
One note – to compress shafting, it needs to be a fairly soft wood such as POC or dug fir, etc. You can’t compress hardwoods this way.
in reply to: Does anybody SELL Paper USGS Topo Maps anymore? #52138I just go down to the Forest Service/BLM office and pick out whichever quad maps I need. I think thy’re around 6 bucks a piece.
I love maps. I can spend hours looking over squiggly little lines imagining what those draws and saddles hold.:D
in reply to: tungsten-footed woodies; considerations #49162Dave, I’m supprised adding that much weight up frond didn’t cause a noticable difference in point of impact due to a decrease in dynamic spine. I’ll have to revisit my tinkering.
A thought for the next round: you may want to taper the end of your insert so that it’s not an abrupt transition from insert/wood to all wood. I think that would slightly strengthen what I think is going to be the weak link (where the insert ends).
Are you glueing the inserts in?
ch
in reply to: Full length taper? #47780Michael, can you post a close up pic of the growth rings in that Doug fir? I’ve made some great fir shafts from some of the heavier wood, but the lighter stuff was way too weak in spine.
I made a dowling jig out of a plainer using only a drill press. It works awsome for parallel shafting.
ch
in reply to: Full length taper? #47775River cane is hard to come by in the Rockies. It is fine stuff though, provided you can find a good stand with few nodes. I wish I had some.
in reply to: help new bowyer #44627Ahh, forget about all that laminated talk. A selfbow is what you want. All you need is a good stave, a draw knife, cabenet scraper,and hatchet. Easy as pie – well, almost!:wink:
Traditional Bowyers Bible Vol. 1 is a good reference.
ch
in reply to: Ode to a Mountain Trail #44623Very nice George, as always.
ch
in reply to: Defining a Traditional Bowhunter #44597Well said Dave. I’d like to add that traditional methods, whether they be with bow or rifle, tend to draw a certain type of hunter. Traditionalists count among their ranks, some of the most ardent and skillful woodsmen. When talking about traditional bowhunters, the weapon is only part of what defines him. His words and actions can’t, in technical terms, exclude him from our ranks, but he will never be truly traditional, in my mind, if he shoots a longbow but talks and acts like an idiot. There are a few “traditional bowhunters” that have the right weapon but the wrong attitude. These folks never last and, after proving to themselves and their buddies that they can kill something with a recurve (usually with the aid of a range finder, scentlock, and every other gadget they can find to give them an edge), they scurry back to the compound. I’ve always said that when a traditional bowhunter can have a very nice critter just out of range, but well within range of the compound or rifle they could be hunting with, and not wish for a more efficient weapon, he’s there.
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