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in reply to: Helle knife kit #32703
Jason brings up a good point with the clamps. When I first tried handles with multiple curved pieces it was a bit of an adventure.
I clamped the pieces dry and it all looked good. But when I spread the epoxy and clamped the pieces they squirted out of the clamps in every direction. 😯 Funny now but not at the time. I frantically tried to find more clamps and wedges before the epoxy set up.
Make sure you have more clamps than you think you need. Twice as many should work. Clamps work best at 90 degrees to the piece they are holding. Also have some wood wedges with various angles to assist with that. If you do clamp at odd angles and the clamps want to slip a small piece of non-skid pad will help.
in reply to: Tuning wood shafts #32697Much good advice here. I shoot recurves, longbows, and selfbows with a variety of wood arrows. I mark all of my arrows with length, spine and weight. Near the nock using a fine marker write that info for quick reference.
in reply to: Helle knife kit #29618Robin, Thanks for posting that, it was long and thought you should look at it first.
This info was created by a customer of mine when I had the Helle distributorship. Darn, I can’t remember his name but will try to find it and give him credit. He also built fine bows and was kind and generous with his information.
Be careful Helle blades are scary sharp. These are good instructions and should tell you everything you need to know to put a handle on a knife. They can be one piece of wood or as elaborate as your imagination wants to make it. I use a variety of exotic and local woods with antler or horn. Note that some fruit trees have interesting and colorful wood. I trimmed some plum trees last year and the heartwood is milk chocolate color with nice grain. I have a bow roughed out from it too.
Also note that you do not have to do it exactly like the info here. These instructions can be modified to fit your tool or material supply, for instance not everyone has a drill press or scraps of exotic wood laying around.
I see Jason is sticking with his story of two bull moose without sharpening his Polar. I believe it now but would have been very skeptical if I was not familiar with Helle blades.
Fattony77, sorry I addressed you as Fatty. I will blame Elkheart for that, we both forgot our reading glasses that day.
Have fun,
Chad
in reply to: Helle knife kit #16210Fatty,
Just found this thread. I will try to find some instructions I have with pictures and details in English. give me a day or two.
Once you’ve done one the fog will lift and clarity will shortly arrive. I too was a bit baffled with the first one but once I succeeded with a basic handle I received a vision of more complex and attractive handle designs. Hang in there.
When I bought my first Helle I too was amazed at the edge holding ability.
Joe, thanks for the compliment.
Best to all,
Chad
in reply to: BHA Rendezvous #37582I will be there. Looking forward to meeting interesting and dedicated people. Should be some good hunting stories to listen to.
in reply to: How Many Over 55 #30389Don T.,
Are you familiar with the algebraic archery formula for archers over 60 years old. Bow weight X 3 = Archers weight. So lets see, 72 X 3 = 216#, is that about right?
Ha, couldn’t resist. Hope you are wintering well.
in reply to: Tent Recommendations #30378Hi Steve,
I’d say first thing is to determine how you plan to use it. Truck camp near the road, backpack, or something else.
Most “two man” tents are crowded for 2 people and gear. A vestibule is nice for packs and dirty boots and may also be useful for heating water or a place for you guard dog to sleep.
If road camping I would get one big enough to stand up in.
I have a bivy tent that is just big enough for me, open to the stars but with a rainfly just in case. It is light, under 3# I think. But I would not enjoy waiting out a big snowstorm in it. I usually carry a tarp and cord, another 1#, and it is useful for many things. Extra shelter, cooking area, etc.
There are many good choices these days and with the internet you can hear from people that use them. I recommend getting quality even if it costs more. When the wind is trying it’s best to rip your tent to shreads a $50 savings might seem insignificant.
Have fun shopping,
in reply to: How Many Over 55 #21371I will also be 65 in August. Shooting 50-60# these days, I shoot many different bows so the weight varies. Used to shoot 65-75. Shot a 2 1/2 year old WT last fall with a 51# recurve and the arrow went through both lungs and the broadhead was buried 4″ deep in hard ground. It was an original Sweetland Forgewood, I washed off the blood, steamed the feathers, touched up the BH and it sits in the number one spot in the quiver.
in reply to: A Few Pics of My New Robertson #20380I would agree, good weight and length and the good looks build confidence. I think Dick installs the “Accuracy Package” on all his bows.
I’ve been shooting Stykbows, among others, since the early 80s. It has been my privilege to call Dick a friend for many years. I admire his ethics both in business and in field. Quite a family those folks.
in reply to: Strap-on tree steps #18181I’ve spent quite a bit of time in trees over the years. I started climbing trees and waiting for deer in the late ’60s sometimes on a convenient limb or a homemade “treestand” contraption that were questionable from a safety standpoint. No belts or harnesses in those days and learned a few things such as Formica is slippery as a treestand.
To the question, I have not had experience with strap-on steps but have thought about using them for stands that are a long hike from the road. It seems as Dave said they are not popular and there is a reason for that I assume. I used screw in steps for years and they work fine but take considerable effort to install in some trees while hanging on with one arm, and being in your mid 60s does not make it any easier. A few years ago I bought a set of aluminum Rapid Rails and like Steve I’m happy with them. I later bought two more sets but they were steel and a bit heavier. Also like Steve I use only three as most of my stands are 12’-15’ high. Once in a while, depending on the tree, I use a screw in step for an extra hand hold or to hang something on. IMO the rails have two disadvantages; they are bulky to carry a long distance in heavy cover and can be too visible in the woods. I’m not worried about deer seeing them as they don’t care but on public land low life thieves could see them. I know folks that use the climbing sticks and like them. I think they would be easier to hide.
Interesting that some hunters can read while on stand, I can’t do it. 3 words at a time is all I can do. I prefer to watch the natural world around me, usually something to watch even if it is ants or bees. The woods are generally thick in this area and it is common for deer to appear in bow range if you are not paying serious attention. Like Dave I hope to hear them first and position myself for the shot before they get too close.
If the strap-on steps do not work well I think the climbing sticks might be the next best thing. You could take the bottom section down and hide it in the brush if thieves are a concern.
in reply to: ghost grizzlies DP #11454Ghost Grizzlies is one of my very favorite books….but makes me a bit sad.
I have a copy of the Wolverine Way and look forward toreading it. I attended a local seminar by Doug Chadwick.
in reply to: PBS and Portland in March? #11450PBS will be fun but I have to be at TBofMT in Chico this weekend and BHA Rendezvous in Missoula in early March so may not make it to Portland. Hate to miss it when it is in the West as I don’t go East of the Missouri River.
in reply to: Veritas arrow jig #30035Hi Sherman,
I have the Veritas dowel maker. Sounds like you found the problem. It works quite well once you get familiar with the setup and details.
If you try hickory make sure you have a powerfull drill, I burned up one of mine. The dowel jig worked fine but the drill was underpowered and it cooked.
Have fun, I have with mine. Now when you walk through the woods you will be looking for arrow wood, bow wood and if like me firewood.
in reply to: Merino wool pants #30025I’ve had extensive experience with a variey of wool. I sit a lot when hunting and when it is cold wool is my choice.
I do not wash it often depending on weather, level of activity and hours of daily use. I have an unlined Camo wool coat that I wear until the temps get well below freezing. I wore it a few hours a day for about 14 days of the bow season, washed it once at the end of the season. When I come in from the woods I hang my clothes so they can air out and dry in case they may be damp from rain or sweat.
My wool garments, nearly all brands, last for years. I do not wash them often, then with very little soap or use a wool detergent. Always hang them to dry and not near a high heat source, allow them to dry slowly. I always pull on the legs, sleeves, waist, to stretch them and believe that minimizes shrinkage. Woolrich has been very good for the price, Filson is a lifetime investment at my age and I’ve had some very good wool from military surplus. I tend to prefer Swedish or Norwegien surplus, Scandehoovians should know about cold weather.
As far as Merino wool, it is best for underwear and then use “regular” wool over that, at least it works for me.
in reply to: Arrow Rest for the Cheap/Frugal Among Us. #33036Cool tip George, imagination is a wonderful thing. I would change “Cheap” to “Wise” in your thread title.
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