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in reply to: Installing Inserts in Carbon Arrows so they Can Be Removed for Tuning? #59160

Just for grins I glued (hot melt) an insert into the 300 shaft. It is super stiff and I do not think I will use it. After it set, I screwed in an old field point and heated it. To my astonishment the insert pulled out cleanly without any issue. The tip of the shaft was cool as well. Thumbs up to that method.

I also gave the grocery bag method a test…it worked well too. The insert did try to pull out on me after a few shots. Most of that was because there is a lip on the field tip (the tip is glued to a broadhead adapter) that kept catching on my target bag when I removed the arrow.

The nock on the end of the shaft can be removed with pliers. There is no taper on them, so I can also cut them from that end.

Tomorrow I get to actually cut the shafts. I flung a dozen or so shots at the bag today and the 400 shaft is just a little weak and needs a trim. The 315 grain head with a 100 grain insert makes a nice thud when it hits the bag. I cannot imagine the kind of damage these things will do with a sharp broadhead.

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in reply to: Installing Inserts in Carbon Arrows so they Can Be Removed for Tuning? #58585

Ed Zachary wrote: NO….unless you leave the whole bag attached 😆
(Stuff the insert into shaft, then trim off excess with razor blade)

I will give that a go and see what happens. Hopefully I will not be fishing a field point out of my target bag 🙂

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in reply to: Installing Inserts in Carbon Arrows so they Can Be Removed for Tuning? #58583

Tom-Wisconsin wrote: Which test kit did you get? I mean what kind of arrows?

I got this kit.

I started a thread in the Ashby forum about building EFOC arrows (from a newbie standpoint). There is more information/specifics in the thread.

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in reply to: Installing Inserts in Carbon Arrows so they Can Be Removed for Tuning? #58526

David Petersen wrote: For starters I’d contact the supplier, which I’m guessing is ABS, and put the question to them.

Who is ABS? (Alaska Bowhunting Supply?) All of the stuff I got came from 3 Rivers.

J.Wesbrock wrote: Use Ferr-L-Tite. Heat the glue to the insert to put them in. To remove the inserts, screw in a field point and apply gentle heat to the tip of the point. No problem; no worries.

That looks like the same stuff I have. I have an old shaft laying around, I may try this process and see what happens.

dabersold wrote: I may be way off base here, but if the arrows are straight walled and not some of the newer type that is heavier towards the front, you could just remove the nock and cut from that end. Most carbons have pull out nocks.

I thought about that and I am going to check it out this afternoon. I think they may be glued in though.

Ed Zachary wrote: I’ve used small squares of plastic from
grocery bags. Works fairly well, one needs to
experiment with different bags because their thicknesses
vary. Just fold the plastic square over the insert and
stuff it in with a gentle twisting motion.

No glue! That is what I was hoping to do. Does the extra weight of the material cause any issues?

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in reply to: Steel Force Broadheads #55865

I would love to see some info on them too. I was looking at them the other day with great interest.

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in reply to: A Starting Point for EFOC Arrows? #54487

Thanks for all of the help guys. The order has been placed and should be here next week.

Bert, I will be sure to post everything that I find here once I get it all figured out. Like you, I also ordered a few extras. I could not resist a scale and a draw weight scale.

As for the bow I am using…In the past I have never had trouble drawing a larger weight (70+ pounds on a compound). The 50# long bow I have does not really feel like 50#s either. With all that in mind I went out and found a really nice looking Ben Pearson longbow with a 60# draw. It should be here this week. I am going to fire a few arrows out of it and see how it feels. If it goes like I want, it will be my main bow and the one I will use to do all of this testing.

Now all I need is UPS to hurry and get me my stuff!

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in reply to: Starting out #54477

Patrick wrote: I almost exclusively use wool or fleece because they are quiet. PERSONALLY, I stay away from cotton as much as possibly because when it gets wet it loses it’s ability to maintain warmth, and doesn’t dry as quickly as fleece.

Failed to mention that the same goes for me. Wool is a wonderful thing. If you can afford Merino wool then I would suggest doing so. My personal favorite is Ibex Cloting

If you want to go to the trouble, you can always coat your outer garments with DWR to shed water. It works really well on fleece.

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in reply to: Starting out #54473

bow hunterkid23 wrote:
oh ok, what kind of clothing would you recommend? I have seen in some magazines, guys in these gilly suites and shooting long bows, All i need is some thing cheap and keeps the rain out but gets the job done.

Clothes and such are just like any kind of hunting, with respect to trad. archery. I am new to traditional archery hunting, but have been hunting whitetail deer for years with a shotgun. Most of the deer I have taken with a shotgun have been within the same range of a traditional bow (<20 yards). The key is to break your pattern, pay attention to the wind, and most importantly be still. I hunt on an old plastic duck hunting stool and wear camouflage to blend in. I usually sit behind a natural blind: down tree, brier patch, etc. If there is no such thing available I will make one with stuff laying around the hunting area (during the off season).

So to answer your question about cloths, buy, borrow, or trade for something that is comfortable, within your price range, and helps hide you. I will say though, I have had my eye on buying or making an ghillie suit.

A good book on the subject is “Traditional Bowhunting for Whitetails” by Brian Sorrells. I found it most helpful.

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in reply to: A Starting Point for EFOC Arrows? #50039

The shop closest to my house is a compound only shop. The shop a little ways down the road does compounds and traditional archery. After some thought though, I want to try this myself. I looked around and think I have found everything I need, given what has been said here. The following list is what I have in my basket, please tell me if you guys see something wrong.

All of this is from 3Rivers Archery…

* Traditional Only Carbon Shaft Test Kit. The kit comes with one shaft for the following sizes 300, 340, 400. If understand this right the 300 spine is similar to the GT shafts you guys are talking about?
* Brass Inserts 5/16″ – 100 grain
* 11/32 125 grain Steel Adapters
* 11/32 Glue On Field Point Test Kit. The kit includes 2-100 grain, 2-125 grain, 2-145 grain, 2-160 grain, and 2-190 grain points

I am going to try and go by the weights/process that Dr. Ashby discussed. I figure by getting the test kit I give myself a bit of wiggle room if something does not work out. Thoughts?

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in reply to: A Starting Point for EFOC Arrows? #43229

Sapcut wrote: There will be plenty more entries and information here better than mine but here goes.

What you said made a lot of good sense. Thank you for the information.

Dr. Ed Ashby wrote: Hope that wasn’t too confusing, and helps a bit.

It is a lot to take in but I get exactly what you are saying. Fortunately for me my local shop has bare shafts and they sell single arrows. They also do in-house fletching and have a range. I will plan on spending a day there in the next few weeks so I can apply what you have written. I am afraid that they will laugh at what I am trying to accomplish, but oh well. Thank you for the information.

I also wanted to let you know I really enjoyed the information about the PNG bows and how the natives use them. It was very enlightening.

/Chad

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in reply to: Backpack Hunting Questions #39624

I plan on hiking in mid day on the first day to set up a base camp. Then I am going to hike out of there everyday to get to where I am hunting.

It sounds like it may not be possible to get it all out in one load, from what you are saying. I was really hoping I could take the deer, get all the meat off of the bones, and fashion a sled out of small trees to drag behind me. Thanks for the info.

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in reply to: Draw Lengths and Weights #32971

Tom-Wisconsin wrote: Welcome cfiles. I have a Indian archery 40# bow which I bought new in about 1965. It did not have the bow length written on the bow. If your bow has the length written on it then it is a 56 inch bow. However if it is not written I think we need to make sure you measured it correctly. Mine is 62 inches long. We measure a recurve by measuring along the curves of the limbs instead of just the distance from tip to tip. My draw lenght is about 28.5 inches. My bow actually is 38 pounds when pulled back to 28 inches. So what is marked on the bow is not necessarily the actual poundage. My bow shoots great. I am glad to find someone who also has an old Indian Archery bow. As far as practice try focusing on holding the bow hand as steady as you can. Hope my tips help.

You made me curious so I went and re-read the markings on the bow. It is actually marked 58″ instead of 56″, huge mistake on my part, sorry about that guys.

Thank you for the info, I have done some research on the bow and came up with very little. The bow belongs to my dad, though he said I could have it. He said his folks bought it for him when he was younger so I am guessing it was purchased in the mid to late 60s, like yours. The model is a Seneca. The only info I have found is from people trying to sell them on eBay.

It looks like it is mostly made with maple with green fiberglass on the front and back of the limbs. I am even using the original string. The only thing I had to replace was the felt on the vertical part of the shelf. It would have been cool to still have the Indian head silhouette there, but it is no big deal.

I learned the hard way that the bow hand must be steady and the elbow locked. I kept having wild accuracy and discovered it was because I was bending my front elbow. Thanks for the tip, it is excellent advice, wish I had seen it sooner!

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in reply to: Draw Lengths and Weights #32237

Greatreearcher wrote: String pinch occurs normally in short bows. I suppose it could happened with a “normal” sized bow with a fellow with big hands? But it is when the angle of the string is more acute, and it squeezes your fingers.

Got it! Fortunately, I do not have that problem with this bow. I am using the three finger under the nock firing method, and it is working fine.

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in reply to: Draw Lengths and Weights #32011

Greatreearcher wrote: Well first off welcome:D. In in a simple explanation, both will work. But it seems that you are one of those guys that are always looking for a better mouse trap, like me. And if that is the case. I dont know how you did it, but you seem to have found the outliers in the overall bowlength for both of them.

Not sure about finding a better mouse trap 🙂 I just want to find a bow that is right for what I want to do, and that would be to cleanly and humanely take a whitetail in the least complicated way possible. Seems like I have the right gear, I just need to learn how to use it well.

Yes it does appear that I found the two extremes of the spectrum. I seem to be one of those people that is predisposed to doing that.

Greatreearcher wrote: The recurve is considered a short bow, and the longbow is pretty long, lol. But again they are both excellent as far as poundage for whitetails. Just from my experience, if you like the way the recurve feels, and you have shot it for about a week and gotten used to it, you will probably not like the longbow! And I am sure a ton of guys on here will disagree with that, but that is sort of what happened to me, except I had been shooting a recurve for a couple years before getting a longbow!

That is interesting. I cannot wait to get the longbow and try it out. I do enjoy the recurve but I love the way longbows look. I also want to venture into making my own one day and I figure longbows are easier to make than recurves.

Greatreearcher wrote: Welcome to the wonderful world of archery!

Thanks for the welcome and for taking the time to answer my questions.

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in reply to: Draw Lengths and Weights #31999

Duncan wrote: Your new longbow that is 50# at 30″ should be 46.67# at 28″ mathematically speaking. The best way to know for sure is to check it on a hanging scale and use a marked shaft.

That is exactly what I wanted to know. I was just curious how to calculate the draw weight at a shorter draw than the one tested.

Duncan wrote: How do you know the recurve will be overdrawn? You mentioned your draw length is 28″ and since 28″ is usually the standard at which bow weight is recorded you should be OK.

Being overdrawn is just an assumption on my part. I figured a shorter bow meant that it was made for a shorter draw. The more I read the more I am beginning to understand that bow length has little to do with draw weight when it comes to traditional equipment.

Duncan wrote: You might exerience a little string pinch at full draw with a 56″ bow but I would shoot it and have fun learning with it. If there is no string pinch at full draw it may be OK for you.

What is string pinch? I am guessing I do not have that issue because it appears to be working just fine for me.

Duncan wrote: And welcome to the forum. I’ve been on since Sept 09 and so far it has been very pleasant.
Duncan

Thanks for the welcome and thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. I appreciate it.

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