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Viewing 15 posts - 736 through 750 (of 1,025 total)
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  • James Harvey
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      My experience is limited to the last month or two where I’ve been making/repairing my own wood arrows and the cheap glue gun with super cheap glue sticks made in china (out of boiled down panda skins?) is all I’ve used. I had a couple of heads let go when pulling them out of my target, but I just used a little more glue and haven’t had any failures since (hundreds of shots). The weather has been very mild here though, so don’t know how cold or heat will effect it.

      Jim

      PS

      Let me know how the bearpaw taper tool goes with your sitka spruce.

      James Harvey
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        Post count: 1130

        GET ANOTHER DOG!

        Enjoyed it mate, thanks for sharing 😀 Cool looking sleds too.

        James Harvey
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          Post count: 1130

          colmike wrote: Jim — Have you thought of starting a guide business for those deers down there?

          There are plenty of chaps already doing just that Mike, and they have the distinct advantage of knowing what they’re doing, the bastards 😀

          James Harvey
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            Post count: 1130

            paleoman wrote: are there Aboriginal artifacts out there in the bush? Like we find stone arrowheads, etc., out here on occasion.

            There definitely are artefacts out there Paleo, but I think the only place stone weapons were in common use was in the northwest. Elsewhere weapons were made out of organic materials (wood and bones mostly) so the only artefacts you are likely to find are tools, axe heads, grinding stones etc. Don’t ask me why a guy would use a stone axe to carve a piece of wood into a club and then leave the axe at home to go and hit someone with a piece of wood :?::shock::wink:

            James Harvey
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              R2 wrote: Hey Jim, you mess up the stalk like I do then you never feel bad about a miss! 😆

              I knew I was doing something wrong! Thanks for pointing it out 😉

              James Harvey
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                Post count: 1130

                I think they’re Axis, but that’s just because they have spots. They’re the first wild deer I’ve ever seen outside of the US. It was pretty exciting!

                There’s no season on them and they don’t have a regular rut either apparently. They’re introduced pests and can be hunted year round. According to the State government they’ve been here for over a century now and they’ve basically given up any ideas of eradication, just an attempt to keep them out of national parks.

                James Harvey
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                  Post count: 1130

                  That’s very thoughtful Kevin. It must be rough for those fellows.

                  James Harvey
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                    Post count: 1130

                    I was running around the internet this morning and came across these guys again. They’ve since released a small game ‘steel shot’ head and a james bond style ‘scent’ head which allows you to deposit a baiting scent without walking down and leaving your tell tale smell behind.

                    James Harvey
                    Member
                      Post count: 1130

                      Jans, I’ve gotten the $3 yarn puffs from 3 rivers. I cut them in half, so 1 becomes 2, then use the heterodyning (sp?) method with them. Once they’re on the string I cut them down to about 1/2 or 1/3 of their original length. My long bow with a fast flight string, shooting 700 grain arrows is whisper quiet now. They’re little prickle and burr traps though 😀

                      James Harvey
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                        Post count: 1130

                        Looks good Ben 😉

                        James Harvey
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                          Post count: 1130
                          in reply to: Att Dave Peterson #42384

                          Jans, here’s some pics to illustrate what we’re talking about:

                          A sealed shaft that had been tapered by the first tool (that the timber didn’t like):

                          I cut the taper off and started again on the same shaft. This is the bearpaw tool at work, making nice, clean shavings:

                          And the finished taper, a big improvement:

                          edit: FYI that shaft is not SS but produced the same results from the tools as my SS shafts.

                          James Harvey
                          Member
                            Post count: 1130
                            in reply to: Att Dave Peterson #42368

                            They don’t come out off centre but the taper is a little short. It’d be worth your while getting an 11/32 bearpaw as well I reckon, in case the size doesn’t matter and there’s just something about the tool that works better.

                            James Harvey
                            Member
                              Post count: 1130
                              in reply to: Att Dave Peterson #41485

                              David Petersen wrote: With Sitka spruce this presents a problem in that the grain structure of the wood doesn’t like a razor tapering tool and when you go to resharpen the point taper after cutting back a shaft to length, it will dig gouges and do a really bad job. This is a big drawback to SS, unless you have a sander taper tool.

                              Dave I’ve had this same problem with the SS shafts I’ve been using lately. I had been using the ‘traditional only’ tool from 3rivers but I had a shaft that was a bit thick up front so put it in my Bearpaw 23/64 tool. They came out perfect. I don’t know what in all the possible variables makes the Bearpaw work, but my 11/32 SS love my 23/64 Bearpaw tool. Go figure.

                              Links:

                              Trad Only Tool:

                              http://www.3riversarchery.com/Traditional+Only+Taper+Tool+11%2F32_i4080X_baseitem.html

                              Bearpaw tool:

                              http://www.kustomkingarchery.com/BearPaw-Taper-Tool/productinfo/4720/

                              James Harvey
                              Member
                                Post count: 1130

                                Jans,

                                Something I’ve played with to maximise weight in front is using lead wire to make a footing wrap, like you see with sinew. Obviously lead is incredibly soft so after gluing in place glue an aluminium footing over the wire wrap. Huzzah. You don’t want lead in your food though, so make sure it’s well sealed in the aluminium. Tungsten is an alternative material that’s not toxic and about 1.7 times as dense. But I don’t have any tungsten wire in my garage 😉

                                Another thing I considered was attempting an insert of a small piece of tungsten rod behind the regular insert in a carbon shaft. To give an idea of the effect, a 1/2 inch piece of 0.1875″ diameter tungsten rod weighs about 270 grains.

                                Just some wild ideas if you can’t use a heavy head for some reason 😀

                                Jim

                                James Harvey
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                                  Post count: 1130

                                  I was playing around with this this afternoon and tried a few different things. I found rather than cutting, rotating, cutting etc, like in the video, it was quicker and produced a straighter, better result to use the file just like a hacksaw to make the cut.

                                  I also knocked up a little jig to help overcome my natural incompetence.

                                  Anyway, seems to work quite well.

                                  Jim

                                Viewing 15 posts - 736 through 750 (of 1,025 total)