[WildmanSC]

in reply to: Bow Quivers #11762

Take a look at the Eagle’s Flight Archery quiver of your choice and order the Totem accessory, too. I have one on my Morrison Cheyenne. It’s 19″ from the clip to the hood as mounted. Plenty of clearance for your fletching.

Go to the following link to see their offerings:

http://www.eaglesflightarchery.com/efa/

Bill

[WildmanSC]

in reply to: 1 finger over vs. 3 fingers under #17050

tkohlhorst wrote: The interesting thing that he mentions is what you do to your bow when you shoot 3 fingers under. You move the center of your bow from the shaft down towards the middle of the handle of the bow due to the fact that you are putting more tension on the bottom limb then the top limb. He shows the example to with a very light bow. Shooting 3 fingers under you could see the bottom limb come much more high then the top limb. Once he shot 1 finger up he pulled the bow back to show that the limbs bend equally.

One thing to remember is Mr. Asbell took a picture of a bow built for split fingers shooting and having a nock point set for shooting split fingers and took the pictures. Had he taken a pic of a bow tillered for 3 under with a nock point set for 3 under and with the bow drawn 3 under, the difference in the limbs would have been negligible.

Bill

[WildmanSC]

in reply to: What draw weight would you recommend? #15340

It all depends on your budget, but, if you can swing it you can start with a bow in the 45# range at your draw length. And then later you can buy a heavier set of limbs, if you decide you need it and can handle the weight.

Bill

[WildmanSC]

in reply to: New T/D Recurve #10613

Troy Breeding wrote: Hot dang!!! Those antler limb bolts really set everything off. Like the looks even more than before.

Troy

Troy,

I love antler bolts and have had them on all of my bows. A set would look great on your new bow.

I’m going to take some more pics with the bow disassembled and post them. I took some earlier today, but I laid my camera on the ground while I disassembled the bow and the camera lens apparently got a bit of moisture on it. The first three pics I took, all with the bow disassembled, were very hazy. 🙁

Bill

[WildmanSC]

in reply to: New T/D Recurve #10461

Below are 3 new pics I took of my new Breeding RMR T/D recurve with Eastern Red Cedar veneers on the limbs.

I might add that the antler limb bolts were built by Frank/Shelly and the string is a new Brownell XS2 flemish string I built for my bow. I added beaver balls to the string for silencing material.

Bill

[WildmanSC]

in reply to: Can't help myself (I'm building again) #10338

Troy Breeding wrote:

You don’t know how hard it was not to build a look-a-like.

Troy

Troy,

I suspect that after hunting season is over that you’ll be building a Bubinga riser and Cedar veneers bow for yourself. :D:D

Bill

[WildmanSC]

in reply to: Can't help myself (I'm building again) #9614

Troy,

Your new bow with the highly figured Walnut riser and dark Birdseye Maple veneers is drop dead gorgeous! I do believe it may just be better looking than my bow! It has a natural camouflage to it with the brown colors in the riser and limbs. And the antler accents add a touch of class to it to boot.

Bill

[WildmanSC]

in reply to: New T/D Recurve #61780

I picked the bow up at the Post Office this morning. I took it to The Archery Shop where I opened the package, assembled the bow and shot it.

Suffice it to say, the pics don’t do the bow justice. The Cedar veneers are a great combination to match the figured Bubinga and Birdseye Maple in the riser. And the bow is very smooth drawing, very quick and a very accurate shooter to boot. Troy did an outstanding job on this set of limbs! And the riser speaks for itself!

I’ll try to take some pics Monday and get them posted.

Bill

[WildmanSC]

in reply to: New T/D Recurve #59253

My Breeding RMR T/D recurve with new, 63″, 46#@28″, Walnut core, Cedar veneers limbs were put in the mail to me today by Troy. :D:D Below are some pics he emailed to me of the newly completed limbs and the riser he completed last month.

I’ll be taking additional pics, posting them and filing a report on the new limbs when I receive them early next week!

Bill

[WildmanSC]

in reply to: Steel Force Premiums #56646

I experienced a problem with the .040″ blades on a 125 gr Steel Force stainless broadhead breaking when I attempted to remove the broadhead from a dead log after missing a shot at a nice buck in WV some years back. I think the .080″ Steel Force single bevel broadheads would solve that problem.

Bill

[WildmanSC]

in reply to: How About the Samick Sage? #56643

Take a look at the Samick Phantom. As a 62″ T/D recurve costing about $80.00 more than the Sage, it makes a sweet looking bow and should be very smooth for anyone with a 28″-29″draw length.

Bill

[WildmanSC]

in reply to: Can't help myself (I'm building again) #56638

Troy,

I believe that is the prettiest Birdseye Maple I’ve seen, too. If you could get a piece big enough to go into the riser, it would make a great second piece of wood to go with Bubinga or Cocobolo, IMHO! :):)

Bill

[WildmanSC]

in reply to: How can I fix my recurve? #43406

Super glue. If it’s too shiny after you apply it, use some steel wool very lightly to remove the shiny appearance.

Bill

[WildmanSC]

in reply to: New T/D Recurve #36440

Troy,

I’ll gladly settle for a dead heat! :):D

Bill

[WildmanSC]

in reply to: The bug has me so I started a new bow (finally finished) #36435

Troy,

It’s a great looking bow. It has natural camoflage and will make for a great hunting bow! Congratulations! :):)

Bill

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