Home Forums Bows and Equipment Can't help myself (I'm building again)

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    • Troy Breeding
      Post count: 994

      Dang retirement is costing me more than working.:shock:

      Yep, started another bow. I’ll post pics as the work goes along.:D

      Troy

    • Raymond Coffman
      Moderator
      Post count: 1072

      Troy –

      Your the “one”

      can’t wait to see what you will conjure up next -haha

      Scout

    • Hiram
      Post count: 484

      Looking forward Troy!!! Your very skilled and cannot wait to see whats next? Would like to see a D Bow with a tad of reflex toward the tips. Question,,,Dies Urac really bond as good as Smooth on etc. without any heat box treatment and hold up???? With fibergalss backing???

    • Stephen Graf
      Moderator
      Post count: 2371

      I made a few Hill style longbows a few years ago where I used 2 forms. the first form was used to put some pre stress into the core. The second form was used to bond glass to the pre stressed core, and make the bow straight.

      I used urac for the wood-wood bonds in the core. I used smooth on to bond the wood to glass. The bows have held up well. Urac will NOT bond to glass.

      I have also used urac to bond bamboo/osage bows, with no hot box. It works fine. Dean Torges uses urac to make his bows. So I am sure that it works fine. His “hunting the bamboo backed bow” is a very good video. And his “hunting the osage bow” is a very good book.

      Since starting to make bows with Urac, I have used it in the few pieces of furniture, and many walking sticks I have made. It has always performed well-at a fraction of the cost of smooth on- and probably close to the cost of regular wood glue’s like titebond.

    • Troy Breeding
      Post count: 994

      I doubt you will ever see me build anything other than takedown recurves and longbows.

      I made afew one piece bows several years ago and after having to deal with carrying them on trips I decided takedowns were the only way to go.

      I’ve heard of people using smooth-on without using the hot box. To me it was made to use with heat and using it without heat could be a big risk.

      I do use it without heat for overlays, but nver on the main body of the bow. Just MHO…..

      Troy

    • Troy Breeding
      Post count: 994

      Managed to get a little work done this morning and take a few pics.

      A week or so ago I ran across some of the best Birdseye Maple I’ve seen. The heart of the board was dark heartwood with the birdseye in it. After cutting several sets of veneer stock I held back a couple sets for myself.

      I’m a big fan of birdseye (any type) and have seen darker veneers and lams in other bowyers bows.

      For the riser I found a really nice piece of figured grain Black Walnut. I added in a couple of accent stripes for extra strength and backed it with black glass. Over the glass I glued on two sets of white maple and some of the dark birdseye veneers for overlays.

      This morning a feathered in the back overlays and installed the inserts and pins. Once the glass gets here I’ll grind the lams into veneers and grind the tapers (which will be Red Elm) for the limbs.

      After that I’ll glue up the limbs and then post more pics.

    • wildschwein
      Post count: 581

      Lol you sir are an addict!!! Is there a bowyers anonymous?

    • Troy Breeding
      Post count: 994

      AA has now turned into BA,,,, an that ain’t no BS….:D:D

      Troy

    • WildmanSC
      Post count: 40

      Troy,

      I believe that is the prettiest Birdseye Maple I’ve seen, too. If you could get a piece big enough to go into the riser, it would make a great second piece of wood to go with Bubinga or Cocobolo, IMHO! :):)

      Bill

    • Troy Breeding
      Post count: 994

      Bill,

      When I saw this piece of BE that was the first thing that hit my mind. I looked thru several pieces of the material and none had enough dark to make more than a few veneers.

      Hopefully one day I’ll find a thick enough piece to make a riser with.

      I held back two sets of veneers for myself. I’m using one set on this bow and holding on to the other with the hopes of one day finding enough to make a riser with.

      Troy

    • Wexbow
      Post count: 403

      Nice work as always Troy. Keep the photos coming…

    • Troy Breeding
      Post count: 994

      UPS just dropped in and handed my the glass for my limbs.

      Now it’s time to start working up the laminations.

      Can’t stand it, gotta get out to the shop!!!:D:D:D

      Troy

    • Troy Breeding
      Post count: 994

      First limb is out of the oven, dressed and drilled.

      I like it, I like it!!!!!

      Other limb is cooking right now. If the weather is good tomarrow I’ll have it on the bow and will start the tillering process. May even have everything ready to test shoot by evening.

      Troy

    • Bruce Smithhammer
      Post count: 2514

      Sweetness. Can’t wait to see the final product.

    • Troy Breeding
      Post count: 994

      After glueing up the other limb I shaped and tillered the bow. I then glued on the tip and bolt pad overlays.

      Yesterday I put on the first coat of epoxy sealent on the riser.

      Today I dressed the overlays and double checked everything.

      Still have final sanding to do to the limbs. Afterwards it will be on to sealing all the pores.

      So far I’m one happy camper. the rough in weight is 57#@28″ which yeilds 60#@ my 29″ draw. Even if I loose a pound or two with final sanding it will be right in the range I want.

      The bottom bow is mine. The upper bow I made for my wife, but it seems she would rather stick with her primitive bow. Don’t know what I’ll do with it. 60″ bow 36#@28″ is a little light weight for my personal likings. It has two coats of sealent on it, but will take several more to fill the hickory in the riser.

      The wild grain in the riser block really turned out great.

      Here is the finals on the antler tip overlays and bolt pad overlays.

    • Troy Breeding
      Post count: 994

      Forgot to add that I also left the limbs and riser at full 1-3/4″. I like the way Bill’s bow looked and thought I’d try it on this one. I only cut the sight window to center so I wouldn’t have so much to build out.

      Troy

    • Troy Breeding
      Post count: 994

      Thought I’d throw in a few pics of the other bow.

      The riser on this bow is only 1-5/16″ wide and the limbs are 1-1/2″. It has the reduced limb wedges like the standard RMR.

      Troy

    • WildmanSC
      Post count: 40

      Troy,

      Your new bow with the highly figured Walnut riser and dark Birdseye Maple veneers is drop dead gorgeous! I do believe it may just be better looking than my bow! It has a natural camouflage to it with the brown colors in the riser and limbs. And the antler accents add a touch of class to it to boot.

      Bill

    • Raymond Coffman
      Moderator
      Post count: 1072

      Troy

      What I really like about YOUR version of the RMR is the slim,

      look and svelte flow of all the parts. truly a beautiful amalgamation of form – function –

      and you picked gorgeous wood to boot

      Scout

    • Troy Breeding
      Post count: 994

      I don’t know Bill,,,, it’s going to be hard to top those cedar limbs on that Bubinga and Birdseye riser.:D

      You don’t know how hard it was not to build a look-a-like.

      Troy

    • WildmanSC
      Post count: 40

      Troy Breeding wrote:

      You don’t know how hard it was not to build a look-a-like.

      Troy

      Troy,

      I suspect that after hunting season is over that you’ll be building a Bubinga riser and Cedar veneers bow for yourself. :D:D

      Bill

    • Troy Breeding
      Post count: 994

      The better half ask my yesterday what the heck was going on. She said it looked like I was in the “One for someone else, two to three for me” building mode.

      Afterwards she gave me that “don’t you think you have enough” look.:shock::shock:

      Hopefully by the time hunting season is over she will have forgotten.:D:D

      Troy

    • wTk
      Member
      Post count: 103

      Love the lines of your bows Troy

    • wildschwein
      Post count: 581

      You sir are truly addicted. Fortunately for you I am an enabler. I’ll take two please, 40#-45#, I’ll let you work out the rest :wink:.

    • skifrk
      Post count: 387

      Hopefully the wife at least tries the bow for that is beauty for to occasionally shoot with. Like wildschein I would like to enable you by encouraging to try your hand at lefty in the 50-55# weight range.:D

    • Troy Breeding
      Post count: 994

      A lefty????:shock::shock::shock:

      I’d have to get someone else to test shoot it.:D

      Built a freind in MS a lefty several years ago. Luckly he wanted light weight. I know I had to look like a dog trying to pass a peach seed when I test shot it.:D:D

      Not only that, but the sucker burnt the heck out of my right arm on every shot.:lol::lol:

      Troy

    • Wexbow
      Post count: 403

      Superb sir! I love the different radii on the maple inserts of the riser – classy! And the antler is just the icing on the cake 8) Now where do I submit my order??? 😆

    • skifrk
      Post count: 387

      Troy you can always send my way I am up to testing out new lefty bows and giving feedback:) I really like the quality of work and creativity you are bringing to the RMR design. Have fun building and good luck in deer season.

    • Ben M.
      Post count: 460

      wildschwein wrote: You sir are truly addicted. Fortunately for you I am an enabler. I’ll take two please, 40#-45#, I’ll let you work out the rest :wink:.

      Schwein,

      Please send me the one you are least impressed with. lol 🙂

      -Ben

    • wildschwein
      Post count: 581

      Prowler, will do! 😀

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