[TSCHMED]

in reply to: Early in my journey #146084

Thanks Ray.

I have to say that I was getting frustrated with that last arrow.

It was flying stiff and I just couldn’t seem to correct it even with more point weight.

But I bit the bullet today and built a new arrow.

I started with full length, full Ethics inserts, I shot paper and I assumed it would fly weak. It did. I started cutting.

With each of the 1st couple 1/2″ cuts, the paper tear got better. The last couple cuts were 1/4″ and I’m almost shooting bullet holes. This shaft is only about 5/8″ longer than the troublesome shaft. 5/8″ really seems to make a difference for me.

I’m going to shoot this arrow a couple more days before I decide its correct, then I will order more shafts.

As for the original arrow, I think if I add another 25-50 grains to the tip, it will fly okay…it will become a stump shaft.

[TSCHMED]

in reply to: Paint instead of wraps? #145732

I’m just at the beginning to convert to a high FOC rig and I’ve always used, and really liked my reflective white wraps (and I guess I should eliminate wraps), but this paint idea has me thinking that paint could be the best of both worlds.

I see “reflective” coatings from Rustoleum, etc but they are not white, it seems like they are a clear coat, which would help at night to find arrows (with a flashlight), but clear won’t help in the daylight. Do I need to do an overspray (over a white base coat) t0 achieve a bright, reflective crown? I think my wraps weigh around 10 grains and I’d like to eliminate that weight, but I also would like to keep the visibility of them.

Is there a white (or bright colored) reflective spray paint out there? I can’t seem to find one with a search.

Thanks.

 

[TSCHMED]

in reply to: Building that EFOC & UEFOC arrow #145671

Thanks Ray,

I forgot about the “Friends of efoc” sub forum. Thanks for reminding me about it.

Tom

 

[TSCHMED]

in reply to: Building that EFOC & UEFOC arrow #145667

Bump.

There are several threads about building heavy arrows, adult arrows, EFOC arrows over on Saddlehunter so I thought bumping this thread  back up may be relevant to some guys.

I’ve followed Dr Ed for several years, but I confess that I haven’t done justice to the system, but I fully intend to. I’m now shooting 545 gr, 18.5% FOC, single bevels out of 52# recurve, but I want to do better.

Are there any new findings, new input, or new arrow components since this thread started?

Thanks Dr Ed, Troy Breeding and Ranch Fairy.

[TSCHMED]

in reply to: How do you keep warm? #29801

Some random thoughts…

Hot Hands brand chemical warmers are the best I’ve ever tried. The 18 hour version really does last from dawn till dark.

Boot driers are a must and my boots go on the dryer EVERY NIGHT. Dry boots also cut down on boot odor caused by sweaty feet.

I always treat my feet with antiperspirant after showering before each hunt.

NO COTTON, ever.

And take notice of how dry base layers feel when you remove them from the washing machine. Some synthetic fabrics come out of the washer feeling wet and cold in the hand…I avoid wearing those against my skin. Some base layer fabric comes out of the washer feeling dry, almost as if they didn’t even get wet in the washer. Those are the fabrics that perform best against the skin. The next time you launder your base layers, remember to notice the difference. If it FEELS wet coming out of the washer, it’ll feel wet (and cold) in the woods.

Ive become a big believer of merino wool against the skin. It always feels dry, even after sweating, and it doesn’t get the nasty smell that some synthetics get.

[TSCHMED]

in reply to: This ain't no bow. #50704

Ontario wrote: Just ran across a magazine add touting an airgun that shoots arrows. 450 fps and 2″ groups at 60 yards. They call it an AirBOW. AAAaaaggghhh!!!!

Anyone who couldn’t see this coming just hasn’t been paying attention for the last 15 years. I predicted this would be the next “archery” weapon several years ago on another forum and I got chastised for being divisive and selfish.

I wonder how long it will be until this new weapon will be included in “bow” season to accommodate those who cannot cock a cross gun. The law will morph from there to allow ALL “bow” hunters to use it. That’s exactly how the cross gun got legalized.

I also wonder what new “advancement” to “archery” equipment will be next. And rest assured, there WILL be a “next, best thing”:roll:

There is no longer such a thing as bow season…only hunting seasons that also allow bows to be used, and the definition of what a “bow” is, has been perverted to the point that makes me sick to my stomach.:(

[TSCHMED]

in reply to: Sharpening single bevel heads ? #11184

Question:

Single bevel heads like Eclipse brand are basically 3 ply at the front end of the head. How do you guys deal with sharpening that part of the head? On double bevel heads, the 3 ply section, being sharpened on both bevels, is easy to get sharp. But on single bevel heads that are 3 ply on the tip, it seems you either make a choice to leave it as a single bevel with a less sharp tip or sharpen that tip-section as a double bevel and lose the single bevel advantage on the leading tip of the head.

Heads that are entirely single ply like Ashby heads, Abowyer, Samurai, Maasai, etc are all single ply from tip to tail-end and are easily sharpened, but 3 ply heads are a little more complicated to sharpen. How do you guys sharpen them?

[TSCHMED]

in reply to: Stone Arrowheads #51963

Critch wrote: A freshly plowed field near these little streams is a bonanza.

Yep. And look right after a rain when the arrowheads in the freshly plowed field will be washed clean and a bit shiny.

My uncle was pretty good at finding them and he taught me to search plowed fields along streams right after a good rain.

I’ve found a couple dozen using that method.

[TSCHMED]

in reply to: Add weight to a Judo?? #47851

R2 wrote: [quote=TSCHMED][quote=dwcphoto]I know this is not what you’re after, but I build my stump arrows to match the hunting arrow, but leave them as dedicated stumpers. They have heavier brass inserts and heavier steel adapters to make the judos match weight. The reasons for dedicated arrows are that I still stump a little in hunting season, I use these to shoot a few shots into a stump or dirt right before heading into the woods and because I don’t want to subject my hunting arrows to the same abuse unless I’m taking a shot at animal. Best, dwc

Can’t argue with that at all.

I do tend to use the same few shafts for stump shooting but I think I’d like to have all of my shafts (minus the point) the same weight.

I should stress that I’m shooting carbon and I really try to avoid putting heat to the shaft to melt the hotmelt to change inserts, etc and GrizStiks are expensive. I’ve ruined a few while trying to remove inserts with heat… I’d like to set-up the shaft and be able to shoot whatever point I need to. I don’t want to have certain shafts that weigh more than others because I have extra weight installed permanently inside the shaft.

Put a washer behind the broadhead and make it 177 and all will be well.. :D:D

I’m good with that… I was just responding to replies.

[TSCHMED]

in reply to: Add weight to a Judo?? #47843

dwcphoto wrote: I know this is not what you’re after, but I build my stump arrows to match the hunting arrow, but leave them as dedicated stumpers. They have heavier brass inserts and heavier steel adapters to make the judos match weight. The reasons for dedicated arrows are that I still stump a little in hunting season, I use these to shoot a few shots into a stump or dirt right before heading into the woods and because I don’t want to subject my hunting arrows to the same abuse unless I’m taking a shot at animal. Best, dwc

Can’t argue with that at all.

I do tend to use the same few shafts for stump shooting but I think I’d like to have all of my shafts (minus the point) the same weight.

I should stress that I’m shooting carbon and I really try to avoid putting heat to the shaft to melt the hotmelt to change inserts, etc and GrizStiks are expensive. I’ve ruined a few while trying to remove inserts with heat… I’d like to set-up the shaft and be able to shoot whatever point I need to. I don’t want to have certain shafts that weigh more than others because I have extra weight installed permanently inside the shaft.

I really don’t understand why Zwickey doesn’t offer Judo in different weights because there is definately a market for them.

[TSCHMED]

in reply to: Add weight to a Judo?? #47704

Patrick wrote: In an attempt to redeem myself, if instead of using the screw-in judo, you use the glue-on version (135 grains for the 11/32 version) and then use the long aluminum screw-in broadhead adapter (42 grains for the 11/32 version), you’ll be at 177 grains.

But then it would be 2 grains too heavy:roll:

Just kidding. Very creative. Thanks Patrick:)

Just so happens that I have some glue-ons and long adapters laying around.

[TSCHMED]

in reply to: Add weight to a Judo?? #47585

Has anyone used these for stump shooting? They come in several weights. Do they resist buying themselves? That’s the great thing about Judo… they don’t skip and resist burying.

http://www.3riversarchery.com/The+Hammer+Screw-In+Small+Game+Blunt_i4910X_baseitem.html

[TSCHMED]

in reply to: Add weight to a Judo?? #47582

R2 wrote: A 10/32 nut and two 8/32 flat washers added made mine weigh 177 gr. 😀

Do you have any issues with only catching a few threads?

I thought of something like that, but I wondered if the thread portion of the Judo would be long enough to catch more than a couple of threads of the insert. The nut & washer combo acts like a bushing that won’t allow the Judo to be screwed in as far. Any problems with that?

[TSCHMED]

in reply to: Add weight to a Judo?? #47578

Patrick wrote: Here ya go:

http://www.3riversarchery.com/pdp+insert+weight+system_iSPW05_baseitem.html

I guess I’m not explaining it clearly.

The picture on the 3 Rivers site shows those weights are installed INSIDE the shaft. They are screwed into the base/back of the insert and then glued inside the shaft… permanently. I don’t want that. If the 50gr weight is permanent, then I won’t be able to use a 175gr broadhead in that arrow and have it weigh the same as when I have a 125gr Judo on that same arrow. I want to be able to interchange 125gr with 175gr heads on an arrow. If the weight is installed inside the shaft the math doesn’t work. I really don’t know how else to ‘splain it.

[TSCHMED]

in reply to: Add weight to a Judo?? #47472

Doc Nock wrote: Those internal behind the insert weights have to have an insert that is ‘threaded thru”…8-32 usually is standard, but most aren’t thru threaded. GT’s are, and apparently Ed’s (ABS) are… but likely for their Griz Stick shafting.

Chek to see if you’re inserts are thru threaded.

That is one reason I use brown HOT MELT to affix my inserts. I can sweat them out easily and never had a pull out with the brow hot melt…

Sounds like a project to make a head gain 50 gr.

Thought about the Hex Heads? They get up in weight pretty well. You can always add those wire ‘fingers” behind the screw in point to a Ace (?) Hex Head to help catch on grass and such… fwiw…

Thinking out loud here… or typing out …never mind.. LOL:lol:

I have the brass Griz Stik inserts hot-melt glued into my Griz Stik Sitka. BTW…I never use epoxy so I can remove them if I want.

These brass inserts ARE through threaded but that is not my issue. My problem is that I don’t want the weight being installed (semi) permanent on the INSIDE of the shaft. I want to be able to screw in my broad heads into that arrow. Once I add the 50 gr weight INSIDE the shaft, then the 175 gr broadhead essentially becomes a 225 gr head. Hope I’m explaining my dilemma clearly.

Zwickey really needs to make Judos in several heavier weights.

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