[Steertalker]

in reply to: Heavy Judo points #47129

Well…according to the Easton site, FMJ’s are Axis’ but they do list different BAR’s for the Axis ST 300’s vs the Axis FMJ 300’s. So I guess I’ll just get a few of the #5’s and #6’s and go from there. Really appreciate you bringing that to my attention. Thanks!

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: Heavy Judo points #46348

Yep..I already saw that but when you go to 3Rivers their option #6 is the one I need. Still confused:?

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: Heavy Judo points #46340

I found them but it said I need #6’s for Axis 300’s???? You say #5’s….I’m confused:?

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: Heavy Judo points #46336

OK Patrick…I went to Easton’s website and saw what you are talking about. Hmmmm…that might work if I can figure out how to get some. Thanks!!

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: Heavy Judo points #46330

I gotch ya Patrick. Adapter rings??? Not sure what you are talking about.

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: Heavy Judo points #46263

Actually Patrick….the 315 grs I’m talking about does include the insert. I shoot 200 gr Grizzly El Grandes with 125 gr steel inserts glued in. By the time I get them sharpened they weigh right at about 315 grs. Also…I’ve tried the Scorpios and they don’t work. I shoot Easton Axis FMJ 300’s and even the smallest Scorpio is too big for my shafts.

Chris…I already have a 100 gr brass insert glued into the shaft. Adding more weight behind that is not the same. That changes the balance and dynamic spine of the arrow.

I think I’m gonna take Dave’s advice…sorta of. I just ordered some 175 and 200 gr glue on “Hammer” small game blunts along with some extra Tred Barta blunt claws from 3 rivers. I’m gonna try mounting the claws backwords behind my points. Hopefully it will act like a judo and catch in the grass. When you shoot an 800 gr plus arrow out of a 72 lb Brackenbury custom quest the arrows just want to keep going and going and going:wink:

Thanks for yalls help.

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: Heavy Judo points #46189

I hear ya Patrick but I shoot 72 to 82 lb bows and need something heavy to shoot out of them. I’m also pretty anal about my equipment and am a firm believer of practicing like I hunt. My elk hunting arrows are approximately 812 grs and so the 270 gr (135+125+glue) judo setup is too light for me. My BH and FP combinations are 315 grs. I also need somethng with prongs on it like a judo to stop it from burying up the tall meadow grasses up in Colorado where I elk hunt.

BTW…I shoot carbons.

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: Arrow / broadhead penetration testing #38749

Nick,

In my opinion none of the commercially available, store bought backstops, target butts, etc are worth a darn. They all will wear ought rather quickly. If you want a good back stop then build it yourself. Personally, I would recommend using Celotex (sp???) fiber board. The stuff they use for siding on house before the bricks go on. It comes in 4′ x 8′ sheets which I cut into 2′ x 4′ sections. Then stack all the 2′ x 4′ sections on top of each other like a deck of cards. Build yourself a frame inwhich to hold the stack, preferably metal. The one I built for myself is over 14 years old and still works fine. I shoot pretty much every day and shoot heavy bows with really heavy arrows…….you aren’t going to put an arrow through it. You can even shoot BH’s into it if you want although they’re hard to pull out.

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: Painting Arrows. #37704

Don’t know what kind of arrow shaft material with which you are working but for aluminum or carbons Krylon should work fine. If you are using carbons then I would recommend Krylon Fusion. Make sure you remove the commerial arrow label with acetone before painting. Other than that there is no need for preparation although a rub down with steel wool wouldn’t hurt. The trick is not to spray too much at once. The first coat should be just a light coat. You should still be able to see the shaft through the paint. Let dry for about 20 minutes and then apply a second light coat. On the third coat you should be able to finish covering them as you desire. You should easily be able to completely paint and crest a dozen shafts in one day using Krylon with no crinkling.

On aluminums I recommend rubbing the shafts vigorously with a clean cotton grease rag (no grease of course) immediately before spraying. This creates a static charge and helps the paint to bond better in my opinion.

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: Does this happen to you? Or am I the only one! #37435

Just a suggestion….tweaking should be done on a blank bale; never tweak while shooting at targets. Just a suggestion, that is.

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: Question #24403

Flintlock,

I fabricated a frame which holds 2′ x 4′ x 1/2″ sheets of celotex sheeting. Celotex sheeting is what they used to put on the sides of houses before the bricks go up. You can get it in 4′ x 8′ sheets so you can get 4 panels from each sheet which you stack on top of each other like a deck of cards. Using the fabricated frame and threaded bar stock you can compress the stack which makes for the best and most effective backstop I’ve ever used. I shoot at mine almost everyday and I built it over 13 years ago. It is just now getting to the point that I need to replace some of the panels.

I also made my own elk target

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: eye dominant issue #18852

I’ve dabled in archery since I was young but now want to get serious with it.

If that’s the case I’d recommend switching to the dominant eye and develope some method of aiming. Otherwise you will be limited to a more instinctive type of shooting which, in my honest opinion, is inferior to a style of shooting that makes use of some form of aiming methodology. Yes…I know some of you will disagree rabidly, but I’m not interested in argueing the issue. It’s just my opinion based on experience. So let’s just leave it at that. Nybubba can make up his own mind about what he wants to do. He asked for opinions……and that’s mine.

Now back to aiming….in order to be able to do it effectively, you’ll need to shoot off the dominant eye side. And yes….you can test conclusively for eye dominance.

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: Hunting Binoculars #17639

Pilot,

Check out this link:

https://www.camofire.com/?utm_source=Camofire.com+Daily+Shooter&utm_campaign=6b04bd648d-Daily_Shooter_09_05_099_4_2009&utm_medium=email

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: Hunting Binoculars #16515

Pilot,

For your budget constraints I would recommend the Nikon Monarch series. Personally I use the 10×42’s with a harness (see my avatar) In my opinion the only thing better are the Zeiss. Nikon optics are high quality. They are my go to optics for elk hunting.

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: 200 grain El Grandes????? #8652

Dave….I ordered my 200 gr El Grandes directly from Grizzly (Shawn Shoonover). Just give him a call and get your left bevels.

Brett

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