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in reply to: Woodie Weights #36385
Buzzard, we use rinehart targets for just that reason on our range. thousands of shots and easiest of 3d we have tried to pull.
on the right shooting efoc’s if you are left handed that would be an underspined effect caused by extra weight. my biggest problem with efoc experimenting has been getting enough spine to not whip them even though supposedly weight forward should not be a problem. it is for me. poor form in my case maybe.in reply to: feather orientation #35046Steve, I probably said it wrong so will try to clarify. yes the straight grain will be oriented to the bow’s side plate. the then top side of the arrow will show <<<< lines. It's called rift and reed but I get confused which is which. What i was trying to say is that the <<>>> lines toward the shooter. .this will cause a break to go down toward the shooters hand. I carry scars from not knowing this in my early days. Shoot enough wood and you will have a broken arrow at release sometime. Once is more than enough especially if it breaks down into hand. Hope a pro arrow builder reads and can explain better. Another reason for nock indicator on arrow nocks.
in reply to: feather orientation #33907that works except for wood. the grain would run the wrong way on one side causing a broken arrow to hit your hand rather than breaking upward away from your hand on the other side
Steve Graf wrote: Hmmmm….. Everyone seems so in tune with themselves, I hate to throw another choice out there…
But 4 fletch works well too. I use a 60 deg 120 deg orientation. I set my nocks so the string splits the 60 deg angle.
I feel I get better arrow flight with 4 fletch. Not sure how much better. But what I like is not having to orient my arrow when I put it on the string. I just stick it on and it’s the same either way. No orientation required. 8)
The other advantage, is that the feathers share wear. Since the arrow is going on the string with the feathers oriented against the bow or away from the bow 50% of the time.
duh forgot. weigh that arrow. if it is typical compound weight arrow it is way to light and may damage your stickbow.the arrow should weight at least 7 grains per pound to insure against breakage but the more suggested weight of 9 or 10 grains will make a better hunting arrow and read Ashby study on arrow weight for an even different perspective.
if it works great. most people find vanes kick off when shooting from shelf but do know one fellow who got excellent flight with vanes. try stripping vanes off one and shoot it bareshaft. still good, then feathers might be more forgiving. worse try feathers. either way fletch the bareshat with feathers and try. hitting where you are looking is great but wobble arrow flight will rob power if you hunt
in reply to: Does this happen to you? Or am I the only one! #33855often times I find the tweak helps because I have allowed bad form to creep in. the tweak causes me to have to concentrate and “relearn” form. Sounds like that’s what really happened with you if you got it back.
in reply to: Abbott Bows #25504Semper Fi from an old Nam vet 26th Marines. You will be amazed at how many Grunts you will find in the Stick Bow circles. Saw your post on bow question. Try all you can first. 3d shoots and shot shows or jamborees offer that. It’s not which one is better, it’s which one feels right to you. They and many others are all excellent.
in reply to: White Deer #25496Here in Tenn they have made it against the law to shoot them. Seems I remember reading La Rue or Dr Marchant saying that white was actually the predominate gene but evolution brought the other colors for survival. They also said that the presence of white, piebald or albinos are a sign the herd is way out of balance with the carrying capacity and a disease crash is likely. Tenn. has received these reports but chose not to heed the warning signs. Of course we can become excellent hunter as only true albinos are against the law so we have to get close enough to see if their eyes are pink.
in reply to: Enough for Elk?????? #57372If you can sit in a chair hold your legs straight out and come to full draw you are not overbowed.If not I will bet the farm your draw will be short after a long chilly wait. You will short draw to a reasonable weight for you. So what does it matter if it says 60lb at 28″ if you end up drawing 24″ Of course like all the others that’s just my opinion.
in reply to: Group sizes? #54605Steve, That’s what I was trying to say. I do practice to lock form and check equipment, then off to the woods again. Would say 30% target 70% hunter mode is my norm. We all are at different places in our pursuits. What works for you is what is best for you.3D shooting is a great complement to my goals.
SteveMcD wrote: Hi, Mountainslicker.. nice post and good advise.
Sometimes though…. just this past weekend I have a Northern Mist Baraga which is heavily Reflexed-Deflexed Longbow. Characteristically, it is not as “forgiving” as my traditional “hill-style” bows, which is why I shoot it in the off season, because if my form is off, I know it right away. Anyway, I’m shooting this bow for several days and nothing is consistent, I looked at this bow, and was about to resign myself to selling it, which I really didn’t want to do, but was feeling bad. Then I thought, try lowering the brace height a little bit… and wall-la I’m throwing 4 inch groups right off the bat at 20 yards. Sometimes (especially for me) it pays to step back and analyze what’s going on.
in reply to: Group sizes? #54597J. You said what I was saying much better. I feel 3d shooting is not only excellent practice but teaches you what you can’t do on real animals. I stopped shooting for trophies and money(had enough and never made enough) and stalk the 3d range to my comfort level. Almost all courses offer practice rounds that allow you to pick where you want to shoot from as long as in safety line. Pick a spot oh yea. If my friends and family knew how many times I looked at their critters with a hunters eye!!!(no bow though)
J.Wesbrock wrote: This has been a great thread thus far, with a lot of excellent points of view.
Personally, I find tremendous value in shooting groups, especially on indoor paper targets. Shooting groups is all about one thing: consistency. If I can hit the spot over and over again, time after time (i.e. skill versus luck), I feel a lot more confident with my shooting abilities in the hunting woods. Obviously, target proficiency and effective range on animals is not a 1-to-1 equation. Just because I can stack arrows into a group the size of a kill zone on a deer at x-number of yards, doesn’t mean I’ll shoot a deer at that distance.
Groups also allow me to diagnose certain shooting issues that I may not otherwise notice. If my groups are taller than they are wide, that tells me one thing. If they’re wider than tall, that tells me something else. Simply shooting one arrow at a time from different distances at different targets doesn’t give me the amount of data I need to fine-tune my shooting.
Chris touched on 3D targets and the lack of an aiming spot, which brings up another interesting point. What is the one main piece of advice often given about shooting animals? “Pick a spot.” Shooting paper is highly valuable, but it doesn’t teach archers to pick a spot (the spot—which is highly visible—is already picked for you). Even stump-shooting can fall short in this regard, since it’s all too easy to pick targets that stand out, such as a pinecone, the center of a flower, or a light spot on a dark stump.
3D archery forces you to get into the habit of picking a spot where one may not be apparent, and isn’t that one of the most important parts of being successful on game? Years ago I used to struggle with picking a spot on animals. After shooting a lot of 3D, picking a spot isn’t even something I have to think about anymore; it’s automatic. I can’t remember the last time I had to tell myself to pick a spot, and I also can’t remember the last time I failed to do so.
in reply to: BOW ARM TECHNIQUE QUESTION #54078Possible the people were trying to say cant the bow instead of what you thought they were trying to say.
in reply to: BOW ARM TECHNIQUE QUESTION #54077There are excellent books out there that explain it much better but relaxed tension is what I call it. The upper body should form a letter T. That way the bones are doing the work instead of trying to muscle it in place. Locked arm means locked release hand. One part of the body will do whatever another part is doing. I think they can it sympathetic response. Anyway a relaxed release hand will mean a relaxed bow hand. No relax no clean release.
in reply to: Group sizes? #54068Archery is the sport of seeing how well and far away you can hit a target. You get as many shots as you want. Bowhunting is the sport of getting as close to an unalarmed animal as possible then using a bow to make the harvest. Group shooting is for bow tuning and form fixing. I say when you can put all your arrows in a pie plate, then take 5 steps forward and shoot one really good arrow at a different spot. From then on one shot one target and move to a different position. When you feel you or bow is off go back to archery practice shooting groups until you are ready to try one shot one kill again. Vary terrain, shooting positions, weather and clothing. Find out what you can do. That is your only guide needed. Finding Trad shooters is like deer hunting. They are closer than you think but they hide too as we are a bunch of loner curmudgeons. That’s to cover the heart of gold I have found in every stick bow shooter I have ever meet. Good luck and HUNT SAFE
in reply to: New to archery #53615Welcome to the good life. Yes we are a bunch of opinionated loner types. But if you look under some rocks there are stickbow shooters in your neck of the woods. The first thing I try to tell any newbie is listen, take the rare grains of wisdom and discard the rest. There isn’t one in 10,000 who could outshoot a factory made beginner bow like the Martin x200 or any of the others. Of course the pride of a custom bow is not to be made light of but make sure you are really committed to the sport before you ever spend big bucks. I see top scores and good deer every year from lowly factory bows in the hands of dedicated shooters. Listen, try it and hold it up to your light to find what’s right for you. If there is no explanation given that makes sense it’s an opinion and everyone has one. That doesn’t make it gospel.
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