Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
in reply to: Dying Feathers #11383
aeronut wrote: I’m not picky, I use all the primary and secondary feathers that are long and wide enough to grind. Some of the secondaries are stiffer and I make sure to use them for the cock feather.
I use the whole feather. I was using 5″ feathers and could get two fletches from the longer wing feathers. I started using 4 1/2″ and get two from almost all of them now. I even use the tail feathers and can get three or four from them.
I use a feather burner so I can adjust the length and shape to anything I want.
Dennis
Dennis, I am even less picky. On good feathers I use one side as left wing and the other as right wing. Just remember to keep separate. Rest is ready made flu flu feathers.
in reply to: Comfortable Bow #32898Hi Dennis, I moved to a 50 lb gmII last year when my Bear takedown became to hard on old joints. It has been satisfactory to shoot but had twisted limb problems out of box. Dealer replaced and for a factory bow it has served me well. One deer , small game and many 3d tournaments. It is semi comfortable but a little overbuilt as most factory bows are. Good for dependability but not as sweet shooting as custom bows. Test drive any bow or don’t spend your money.
in reply to: Just a reminder … #30906Dr Ashby, Efoc has me going in many directions with most of the pitfalls you have so completely covered. A stupid question came to mind. What would be the results of a staged separation at impact much like a 2 stage rocket sans additional propulsion. The efoc head and forward inserts would have already absorbed the speed and most of the energy and could travel on without the penetration robbing rearward damage. Late at night and to much thinking maybe but a thought that might be refined.
Someone not me came up with a better mouse trap years ago for flat shelves. Cut a plastic cotton ended cue tip into 2 pieces. put one under shelf and side plate right at pivot point. Then cover with rug rests of preferred material from otter skin to plain ole moleskin. I leave a small gap between shelf and side plate material which seems to let feather pass a little smoother. Black Widow invention I believe. Leaves only a very small precise contact points for arrow to rest on so less friction.
in reply to: The Silent Arrow #30870A couple of questions on this interesting post. Would cresting paint act in the same way andor if tape was put at the leading bitter end of front of feathers would it work as well as holding ends better than a bump of glue?
in reply to: anatomy and archery… #29169mountainslicker wrote: [quote=TradRag]Can’t you also close the shooting stance a bit to clear the upper body? I know it will also shorten the draw length. This may help and it just a little adjustment.
Closing the stance (putting back foot behind front foot) would be a big problem for most women. That superimposes the chest which is exactly what they are trying to avoid, if I understood what you meant xtarget –even xtarget -_ closed xtarget _- open
sorry illustration did not come thru properly. puter guru that I’m not.Bet this doesn’t work either.
in reply to: anatomy and archery… #29166TradRag wrote: Can’t you also close the shooting stance a bit to clear the upper body? I know it will also shorten the draw length. This may help and it just a little adjustment.
Closing the stance (putting back foot behind front foot) would be a big problem for most women. That superimposes the chest which is exactly what they are trying to avoid, if I understood what you meant. xtarget xtarget xtarget
_ – –
_ even – open – closedin reply to: Arrow quivers while hunting #23791here’s a couple of suggestions I have used for years. A catquiver will let you carry any extra gear and protects broadheads as well as hide bright (easy to see) fletch. Little work to make it work with tree stand on back but effective. I also take a one arrow black widow bow sheath to hold broadhead until the stalk. Another one is to put a quikee quiver holder on your belt and attach quiver. doesn’t sway with leg when you walk. Removes quick when you get in stand. Remember to practice all the time with bowquiver attached and arrows in it. each one taken out changes weight and balance. Found quiver off bow works best for my poor style.
in reply to: anatomy and archery… #10290Hi, just worked with some ladies this weekend. The first thing I check is the dominant eye. It is possible to close one eye but then you lose depth perception. Anyway check for dominant eye by pointing at something and alternately closing one eye then the other. One will keep you on target the other will be off target. Shoot with the hand that keeps you on target. Then the questions you asked have to be addressed. No woman should endure the pain of arm or breast slaps. That will put an end to what might be a wonderful sport for the whole family. The opening of the stance will take care of the chest problem. Just remember to turn at the waist so both shoulders are in line with the target. The elbow problem is much harder to get women to understand. It is not just the way they naturally hold their elbow but the shoulder also. In turning the elbow so it is 90 degrees from body the shoulder must be rolled or you will see a hump at the shoulder instead of a straight line from wrist to opposite elbow. G Fred’s book with the low starting position shows and helps explain this. The shoulder must be turned and rolled as well.Elbow does not have to be cocked as this puts a lot of strain on joints and will cause future pain. Once stance is open ,shoulder and elbow rolled the arm can be in a straight relaxed not locked straight line to and thru the shoulders so bones instead of muscles will hold the bow and proper back muscle tension can be utilized to shoot the bow. If form is correct the only need for chest protector or arm guard is if clothing hitting string.
in reply to: Instinctive Shooting: Practice Distances #46391Archery is the sport of hitting a target. Any target any distance. Flight of the arrow. What a beautiful sight. Instinctive knows no distance but requires practice. Read up on all the great games of yesteryear and play. It does take dedication and love of the sport.
Bowhunting is the art of getting close to the game and using a bow to deliver the finish (except for the work that now begins) The shooting should be the least difficult part of it, almost a gimme or it isn’t bowhunting. The best bowhunters I know don’t like target shooting as they are no good at it. (Oh what they are missing.) However they are good enough hunters that their shots are feet not yards. Whereever I can keep all my arrows in a 6 inch pie plate my maximum Range that season is 5 yards less. As has been said, respect for the life you are taking is the main reason for knowing your limits.in reply to: sick of the pain!!!!!! #30208Matt, I agree with whats been said, however it looks like in the pix that your bowarm elbow is facing straight down 6:00 position. That puts a lot of arm near the string. Both Howard Hill and G. Fred say to hold the bow like a suitcase. Start by putting the bow down to your side and pretending it is a heavy suitcase. See how the elbow is direcly away from your body. Without changing anything bring your bow up to shooting position. See how the elbow is now at 9:00. Lot less meat is on the string side of the bow arm now. Hope you can understand what I am trying to say and it helps. Pain may be weakness leaving the body but pain over and over means something is wrong.
in reply to: Bowyers: Brace Height Question #23174a few thoughts, most bows have string grooves at the nocks running down the belly. they are not for looks. if you fit your string so it leaves the groove about 14 inch from end when strung, that is a good starting point. sweet spot for you will be different from others due to individual shooting styles. start as above and tweak for best combination of cast and quiet. i mark each bow when i find that point. if it is a really good one i crest the arrows for it with lines that denote brace height so when the arrow is nocked it automatically verifies brace height and string stretch
in reply to: Flemish strings #50589Made a jig and used it for years. But a cut string way back in woods got me to thinking. Now I use those cute little cresting lines as a ruler. My arrows are crested for each bow so the nocking point is a center line with 14 inch on each side to verify brace height. then lines are marked to give me 6,12, 24 inch with 12 34 and 1 inch lines. now arrow, bow wax, string and knife are all that’s needed to make flemish string any where. Nock to nock plus 10 inches for first strand. 12 inch shorter for each additional. 9 inch for upper loop recurve or primitative 8 for long bow or narrow tips. 8 12 or 7 12 for lower nock or tie bowers knot and don’t worry lower loop. tag ends left wild are natural silencers.
in reply to: arrow tuning #50558This may sound a little dumb but I am. It took me years to realize that I was getting false readings as I cant my bow. A nock high look was really a left right spine problem. The spine and nock instructions most people use were originally for bows held straight up and down by FITA style shooters. If you cant the bow think about this.
in reply to: feather orientation #50544BRUC wrote: Thanks for all the good info everyone:wink:
Wondering with two blade broadheads if there is a rule to follow for orientation:?:
BruceBruce not sure if you mean feather or broadhead alignment. One relates to the other. Some put broadhead vertical, some horizonal and some use a combination so they are vetrical or horizonal with their normal cant used in shooting. Each way requires some fletch tuning to get a good flight. I find most arrows can have nock sort of screwed on for a few shots without glue. That way you can rotate nock until you find best flight then glue on.
-
AuthorPosts
