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in reply to: Need assistance with arrow spine. #39930
Bow is as follows-
right hand Great Northern Fieldbow
46# at 28″ (verified)
weight on fingers at 26″ is 40.5# (verified)
limb/bow design is a mild R/D flatbow with a straight grip (no locator)
window is cut to 1/4″ BEFORE center (includes thickness of calf hair plate
string is a 12 strand DF97 flemish with loops padded to 16 strands with one brass nocking point and two beaver balls
nock fit with the Easton X nocks is nearly perfect
brace height is within bowyers specs
I cannot get 1816’s to fly correctly with any weight tip. Don’t have 1716’s. To put it mildly I’m rather frustrated with all of this and am starting to regret selling my DAS recurve as I could easily tune arrows to that bow.
edit-
I’ll add that I even went to 250gr screw in points with the 1816’s and the flight only got worse than with the same shafts and 100gr points. What I’m finding with my shooting is that I’ll end up with a shaft and tip weight combination that is considerably stiffer than what EVERYBODY is recommending. So something is wrong. I found that Stu’s calculator was not even close with my DAS either.
in reply to: Need assistance with arrow spine. #39767I broke up my original post a bit.
I shot again last night and think I have the answer. I’ll know more after I shoot again tonight. Right now I’m leaning towards too much tip weight and shaft length was causing the 1816’s and 1916’s to act very, very weak. I stiffened up one of the 1916 shafts by a little trimming and less tip weight and the bare shaft flies like a dart out to 20 yards. However I would like to shoot more to verify that this is really the case and not an anomaly. I’ve heard that an overly stiff shaft will act weak due to deflection. I don’t know what happens with grossly underspined shafts in regards to flight characteristics, but I’m guessing that unpredictable flight with confusing bare shaft testing results are likely. I think that was what was happening with me.
edit- I should add that I realize that nock right indicates stiff arrow reaction. Is it possible that a very weak bare shaft could be deflecting off the shelf in some manner and end up showing stiff in flight??? Just asking.
in reply to: Need assistance with arrow spine. #38848I tinkered around a bit with Stu Millers Dynamic Spine Calculator today. According to it I need to use 200 gr points with the 28″ 1816’s and 250 gr points with the 1916’s. Looking for some real world expertise here and not info off of some chart though. Anyone??
in reply to: Favorite AMO for hunting? #38766When I was into recurves I liked 60 to 64. However I’m going a bit shorter with my longbow choices,…..go figure that one out, I sure can’t! But my current longbow (actually a flatbow if yah want to get all technical!) is 60 and the longbow/flatbow I’m having built will be 58.
in reply to: CO BHA shoots down drones! #38763Hmmmmmmmmmm…………drones for hunting? Makes me wish I was born about 100 years ago. Then I would not have to ponder about such things and find myself angered/disgusted.
in reply to: Pulling my hair out over quivers. #38450HAHAHA……man servants. Yeah that’s what’s needed……:lol:
in reply to: Pulling my hair out over quivers. #38428Duncan that little leather disk to hold the shafts is a wonderfull idea! Thanks for the ideas and help! Time to head to the workshop.
This is an old idea re-hashed. I forget the originals name but it was tried in the late 70’s or early 80’s era. I guess there were fewer ‘suckers’ then. Look it’s a good idea I’ll give it that, but often ‘good ideas’ translate poorly in the field under real hunting conditions. A friend of mine sells these at his shop. I could, if I had wanted to, got one at cost plus frieght. I still have not bought one yet if that tells you anything. Money would be better spent on a ghillie suit. Easier to use, better concealment, easier to carry/transport. Ghillies have NEVER gone out of style. That speaks volumes on their effectiveness. So much of todays hunting ‘stuff’ is marketing at it’s finest/worst depending on your point of view.
in reply to: Looking at samick sage #34770All I can say is please buy American made products.
in reply to: how good is good enough? #34651My take on this subject-
1. First off reduce target ‘kill zone’ size from ‘pie plate’ or 9″ to about a 4″ to 5″ circle.
2. It’s great to practice with field points or blunts but all that matters is broadhead flight. BH’s should, within reason, fly like your FP’s. If they don’t, get to tuning your setup and or work on shooting form.
3. When you can keep 4 out of 5 shots with BH tipped arrows in the 4″ to 5″ circle AND the one flyer (if you have any) is within an inch or so of the 4″ to 5″ circles edge at 15 yards EVERY TIME you practice, you can go hunting.
4. Yes you read that right, 15 YARDS! Become a better hunter or as I like to put it a better WOODSMAN. That quite frankly is the key to success!
5. Once you have passed your ‘self qualification’ at 15 yards, you only take shots out to 15 yards. That is your max range in the field!!! Now start working on extending your max range. It may take a year or two or ten but over time you will slowly extend your max range out to 20 or 25 or 30 etc. For what it is worth, most experienced and ethical compound archers will not take game past 30-35 yards so don’t think that 30 yards with a recurve/longbow should be automatic and if you can’t do it then you don’t hunt.
I’ve hunted hard since 1990 and have taken two shots past 30-35 yards. One at 45 yards and one at 49 yards. One was a coyote and one was a whitetail buck. Both shots were successfull but 90% of all my shots have been under 25 yards and under all hunting conditions, species, and terrain.
in reply to: Pulling my hair out over quivers. #34637Duncan- I’ve seen a lot of guys on the ‘net use those type of side quivers. I’ve always been curious though, what keeps the shafts from making noise? With a soft leather back quiver the ‘tube’ of the quiver flattens out to the contours of your back and compresses against the shafts to kee ’em quiet. With the plains quiver it’s sort of the same concept, leather is snug around the shafts. But with the hard leather tube type side quivers the shafts just sort of lay in there. I understand that most have foam in the bottom to stick the point into but what keeps the nock end from moving around and making racket? Not a critisism, but an honest question.
in reply to: Pulling my hair out over quivers. #33483Correct me if I’m wrong but it looks like you are using a Cat Quiver/St. charles type of quiver? Maybe I could strap that onto the climber stand when I take it?? I tend to shoot arrows that are different lengths. Is your design adjustable for this or are you stuck with one length of arrow?
in reply to: Just a thought (on technology)… #25725“Also, I absolutely detest the hi-tech militarization of hunting gear and wish all electronics were outlawed. It’s just awful for the sport, IMHO.”
I thought for awhile on how to reply to the topic when I realized I could not say it any better than Mr. Petersen. Night vision technology is NOT acceptable for hunting, any hunting be it trad. compound, or rifle. Sorry but that’s my opinion.
in reply to: Time to buy a long bow #25721If you are going to Kalamazoo, check out Great Northern longbows. I own one and Mr. Brumm is building me another. Sweet shooters with excellent craftsmanship. I too jumped on the longbow bandwagon back in July. I doubt I’ll ever go back to a recurve now. I was able to shoot a few types of LB’s and decided that I like what I think is termed ‘American Flatbows’. I like shooting again!
in reply to: Work Sharp Sharpener for broadheads #13584All I can offer you is this thought-
I’ve tried every darn sharpening gizmo/shortcut out there to no avail. Finally I sat down and really learned how to use files and stones. After that I either sold, gave away, or threw away every single gizmo and now only use files, stones, and/or leather strops to sharpen everything. Much easier and faster and dare I say cheaper in the long run once you learn how.
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