[Hiram]

in reply to: Ground Pounding It! #58118

One must remember that: Treestand=a safety belt or harness. Harness better.
I have read Freds Books. The Stalking and Stillhunting was a great book full of good info which I have employed to kill a few on the ground since.
The Goal for any groundhunter is to remain out of thier line of sight.
This is where the ground blinds really work.
Natural ground blinds which meld in with the flora and the wind being right, along with the proper timeing of your shot as the deer passes you is a lethal situation for the deer.

[Hiram]

in reply to: NRA pros and cons #58017

The NRA has done more to protect your second ammendment rights than anyone since the Constitution.
These rights should be preserved by your monetary support of the NRA.
Remember that: Firearms are the pre-requisite to your right to own Archery equipment.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Stress Cracks #58014

I have fixed exactly one. It was a lite poudage recurve, and was stress cracked in the limb tip area. I used Brownells Acra glass, slow cure, and clamped it overnight. I then installed Micarta limb tips for strength. I would be afraid to recomend this fix on a Bow with more than 45 lbs. of peak draw weight due to the possibility of a injury coming from a shooting related accident. FF string etc. will put more pressure on the limb. The Bowyer that made it should make the accessment.

[Hiram]

in reply to: tabs and armguards from elk hide #58005

Find one that works for you and trace around it. Would not do this for re-sale or production, but for personal use, probably OK. Cordovan would be the face leather of choice for a Tab. Maybe back Cordovan with your Elk hide.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Where should I start? #58003

For a good starter or keeper, Martin sells a fine long bow.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Opinion on Carbon #58000

EXPERT?=Drip under pressure. Ha:D

[Hiram]

in reply to: Arrow Spine #57999

How long is your arrow. and whats your point weight? FF string? 2018″s sounds a little more like it without anymore info. To stiff an arrow, maybe. Bare shaft one and find out.

[Hiram]

in reply to: who was your mentor? #57904

The woods just drew me in by the existance of Squirells and small game hunting at first. Yes my Dad was a shotgun Squirell hunter and got me started at 9 yrs old. The Bow by its own simplicity and fun to shoot and carry in the woods had a major influence on me. I found that the more I shot it and carried it in the woods, the more I wanted to. Ewspecially the Trad bow, which is lite, and almost silent compared to the BOOM caused by the discharge of a firearm spooking and telling of your presence to all. Mentors from Trad Bow hunter mag and others later (internet) re-inforced my dedication and affirmations toward the “Bow”. Now I am still nurtured along by the presence here!

[Hiram]

in reply to: Oh so close – yet so far! #57896

The pack principle has become my “Mantra” after arriving at 50 plus in age. Used to pack out a hind quarter, a shoulder, and some neck meat in one trip. No more of this! Last time I did this, I arrived home to the proctoligist to find I had a fischer, ouch! Surgery followed to fix the strain tear.

[Hiram]

in reply to: 4 wheelers, Dave Peterson #57890

Yes! Slobs that roadhunt and have a negative impact on the game and other hunters. They are breaking the laws and the officials (enforcement officers) are already burdened with so many calls and details they cannot nail a lot of these “Slobs” that inhabit the area. Not enough enforcement personell to patrol.
I do not like the idea of being a “Snitch” but I am beginning to think it is a “Duty” to other hunters and the preservation of hunting to turn these yaahoos in. The problem is “catching them red handed” and what is admissable in court etc.
Did you get your Elk in Wy?

[Hiram]

in reply to: Opinion on Carbon #57218

Whats your draw length at 63?
Fast flight string?
400’s at 28 in draw borderline weak with your set-up.
Carbon express Terminators is a tuff arrow.
Hard to tell you what deflection without more info.

[Hiram]

in reply to: How long should I just sit there? #57122

Depends on how confident you are in the spot you have chosen. How was your pre-stand scouting? Did you see the signs you were looking for to confirm the presence of quary? I think that several conditions must be present to stay in one area for more than a day or two in succession.
1. Did you approuch and entrance to the stand permit you to go un-noticed and not winded by your quary?
2. Is your stand placement down wind of the animal with a sustained pre-dominant wind?
3. Is your stand in a funnel or bottleneck which exhibits all the the above characteristics along with the forknowlege that: A (good one) will eventually pass by?
4. What stage of the rut are you hunting? Which will be dictated by your location and most importantly, by what the signs you are seeing for yourself of the activity in the area.
5. Weather can also be a factor. As to the amount of time it takes to get to your stand and leave without spooking deer. I like to hunt on the eve of a storm front, which sometimes kicks up the movement of animals before the storm.
Barometer etc.
Synopsis: I would not recomend staying in one area too long.
Try to time your presence at the most oppertune times which might include food sources and rut activity in your area.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Leave Recurve strung? #57109

OK if: You hang the bow in horizontal position on pegs. I hang mine on the limbs, not the string. Consider whether your bow is too heavy to do this or not. What I mean is, is it a typical trad bow which weighs less than 3 pounds? A heavy bow will generate more tension on the limbs or string by virtue of its own weight.Not useing it, un-string it. Never lean your bow in the corner strung. The weight on the limbs will not be condusive to longevity if it is strung while sitting in the corner on the bottom limb tip. Quivers with arrows adds a lot of weight to the bow. I would unstring it if this is the case. Bare bow weighs much less.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Bare shaft tuning vs. paper tuning? #56661

I have used both methods. I prefer the bare shaft method over the paper method. It accomplishs the same thing without having to have the paper and frame. I also use the planeing method which utilizes the “Bell curve”. This can be found on Ol”s site. Tuning for tens is a good baseline also. I guess the short answer is that; the elaborate pain in the butt the paper requires to be set up is really not for me. I can get it done with the bare shaft method (results) without the paper. 10 yards and a target at the same level as my arrow and I can see the same thing by the nock angle and point entry. Remember that bare shafts should be taped up with electricians tape the length of the fletching. This will compensate the for the “stiffening effect” that fletching has on the arrow after they are glued to the shaft. A slightly weak arrow may the ticket if you do not use the tape. Properly spined bare shafts will fly decent to 20 yds or more. Shot off the shelf and without a plunger, shafting may not be as perfect in flight. In other words, good flight at 20 or thirty yds with a bare shaft is really pretty good.

[Author]

Posts