[Hiram]

in reply to: Keepin' It Trad… #52247

I am used to opinions!! LOL:)

[Hiram]

in reply to: tungsten-footed woodies; considerations #52244

Yes Dave, along with moving the angle back a little further it would make the woodie shaft stronger. Let us know if you hear something from ACE.:)

[Hiram]

in reply to: tungsten-footed woodies; considerations #51594

Sorry David. I was typeing and having to listen to my oldest daughter during one of her no-stop “Lonely Rants” LOL. I think what I was trying to say was that a Longer, less angle taper on the front of the shaft, coupled with a new Broadhead design to accomplish this is what is needed. The longer taper would allow for the strengthening of the shaft in the forward area say, the first two inchs or so. The longer adhesion area coupled with a lesser degree would also accomplish strength and provide the taper for alignment. So, a Broadhead with a long taper length, along with lesser angle also provides the extra material to add weight for the FOC increase with-out any add ons. Can you see it in your minds eye Dave? Bet all the way to 300 grains easily obtainable. So now all we have to do is prompt someone to make it! LOL. Another benefit would be the longer cutting surface tapered to a 1 inch rear width. Man! Like throwing a Gerber Bootknife on a wood shaft.

[Hiram]

in reply to: tungsten-footed woodies; considerations #50633

A cold rolled steel rod mandrel turned to the taper and outside diameter of the appropriate thin wall Brass tubing. Quick brazed to the back of the head taper. Course once the Mandrel was turned on the Lathe, the Mandrel would need to be stabilized in the Oven. A short length of Brass (inch or so) would strengthen the shaft (footing) and the brass would braze without loosening up the braze in the Head construction. Good hand with the torch, and properly fluxed rod along with a prepped and cleaned rear taper skirt of the head. Brass would also add some weight and blend with the shaft. The rear of the tubing shank could be beveled to blend. I think also that I just gave away the idea for the heavy head construction. The taper just does not provide much strength by nature of the length. The main function of the Taper is primarily to achieve alignment. As far as the alignment versus the rearward tubing area alignment to the variables of achieving the spin test. Simple gentle spinning of the shaft in a Drill motor coupled with a little sandpaper would relieve the forward to back area of the shaft for proper fit of the hood. Ideally, the entire head constructed in such a way would meet the standards a little better. Just an Idea Dave!:)
One thing I have thought about which I forgot to mention. I think the angle of arrow strike has much to do with the current taper system (WEAKNESS) more so than the the arrow strength at the breaking point. Linear hits are much less likely to break the head or point off when the arrow hits solidly frontal. The impact energy runs the length of the arrow grain popping off the nock sometimes. Since the grain runs one way the integrity of the wood strength is directional. That is why the tapers breaks off of woodies with more frequency than Carbons. Course we all know what happens to Aluminum LOL.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Woodie Weights #50295

Slick your woodies up with parrifan wax. They are still hard to pull, but helps. Tried the metal tapers years ago, Once.:)

[Hiram]

in reply to: F.O.C vs. Dynamic spine. #50294

Jason is correct. Man, how much weight are drawing? 250″s really heavy spined are’nt they. I shoot CE HERITAGE 90’S out of 52-55 pds with 150 heads. Have to run then 29-30 long to get them right dynamically.Whats your set-up?:)

[Hiram]

in reply to: Some People Should NOT Be Bowhunters! #50291

Steve!!! Come on Mr Spock, we need Logical thinkers like yourself here!!!! Besides, You shoot one of them old dadgummed Longbows! LOL, hA, How bout that new Baraga? Just got one. Well, it’s new to me! Many good peeps here!:)

[Hiram]

in reply to: Some People Should NOT Be Bowhunters! #50289

Naw, way too seriuosly taken. You can like who you want!! LOL Ted is a great firearms preservationist! He takes Crossbows and other things out of context by confusing them with a right to own perspective, compared to whether or not they are a Bow. Well, they are NOT a Bow, and should be properly defined by Game and Fish Agencies! Simple ain’t it? Well OK, now you know LOL. As far as the OUTDOOR CHANNEL, set your clock to watch Eichler, and one or two others, thats it! While you are not watching Fred, watch some of the good old movies or How it’s made, on the science channel. 🙂

[Hiram]

in reply to: Bow Tuning #50267

Yes Duncan, the heavier spined shafts (too stiff) will be weakend by the heavier weight Tip (pile) by the resistance of the added mass on the front end of the arrow. In most cases I believe people are overspined with Carbon arrows especially. I used to shoot woodies years ago (getting older LOL) and it seemed to me at least, that the more consistantly spined arrows (Bare shaft tested to my Bow) were more important to good results than one being a little heavier than the other. I was shooting POC and would just make sire the grain was rinning para with the horizontal, and shorten each shaft a little at a time, to bareshaft each one into conformance. I just used a knife to roll cut the ends and hand taper outside while useing hot melt and dip the Pile in water, then bare shaft them individually. They shot great if I already had the finish on the bare shafts when I Bareshafted them. If I bareshafted, then applied the finish, I would sometimes find I had shortened them too much. They were stiffened by the finish. Some of the saturating finishes may make them weaker because of the added forward weight. I always used Tru-Oil over a RIT and de-natured alcohol finish. Sometimes if you are too stiff! You will get a false nock high indication on your bare shafts. Hold your Bow vertical while bareshafting!:)

[Hiram]

in reply to: Flemish strings #50259

No! Your jig will be adjustable for string length by the center peg adjustments. Unless of course, your jig with just one hole which corresponds with the single length you desire.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Bow Tuning #44866

It’s the starting point (raised area). The vertical and horizontal begins before the arrow is shot!!!! This is what starts the proper rotation in the horizontal and vertical. Static positioning is the pre-requisite for the dynamics of Paradox during the shot. The goal is to gain the starting point most efficient to eliminate contact. That is why a cushion plunger works in the first few inchs of forward linear motion of the arrow. Assuming that the dynamic spine is correct, the proper starting point eliminates contact fore and aft (vertical) to some extent. Contact with the shelf area by the front of the arrow by a slightly raised portion directly over the horizontal torque point, starts the path of the arrow, and provides the right path for clearance during Paradox! Remember that the goal is to start the arrow with the right rotation (Clockwise for R/handed shooter), and eliminate as much horizontal and vertical torque as possible! The correct arrow will allow the S CURVE, to pass the riser in the horizontal. Brace height changes enables the forward or rearward movement of the Nodes of the arrow when inertia is forced on the back of the arrow by the string.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Most Trouble Free Wood Shaft #43718

One could use heavy spined PO, and drill for the sleeve and screw in a heavy head. I think if I were seriuosly considering wood, that I would set-up to make my own Hickory shafts. I live where it is plentifull. Hard to straighten? well what the heck, the toughness would outweigh it’s faults. JMHO!

[Hiram]

in reply to: Bow Tuning #43715

Hey Duncan, I know you are a good hand with a lot of knowledge! Best thing I have found is to provide a small pivit point above the grip. A matchstick or a dab of JB weld putty will suffice. I like to have that little extra clearance from the shelf surface to give me a little more clearance.

[Hiram]

in reply to: WHATS EVERYONE SHOOTING? #43614

A Quarf is a set of Quinn limbs on compound riser. Hunt Bear balck Bear risers, Spectra risers,TD-3 risers,Rambo risers, and some others which provide a 21 inch length od riser and geometry to make a good recurve. Proline Typhoon is another one. Warf is the basic name for what my friend Bob Gordon of Idaho started years ago by doing ILF conversions on these old compound risers. This enabled the use of Olympic limbs, and made a shorter than Olypic BOWS for hunting rig. Adjustability and no give in these alum/magnesium risers make good shooters from 62 to 66 inch lengths. Quarf’s are straight bolt down limbs with no tiller adjustment.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Group sizes? #43606

‘Good Luck” is really where preparation and oppertunity meets. You can increase these “Successfull Encounters” by practice up close, and at varied ranges by committed practice sessions done correctly. Bale work/close to target concentrating on form and release/follow through, is neccessary pre-requisite to successfull practice. Only when the foundation is built and maintained regularly can a person be “At his Best” in Hunting situations. Bale work enforces and adds continuel updates to your computer (Brain) for the correct sequence, which will run itself under pressure. Really good expectations of Accuracy is relative to the Goal! Groups show consistancy, while the shooting one arrow shows abilty. I am against any such regulation to shoot groups unless one is tuning his equipment for consistancy. Test your ability by just taking a walk in the woods and do not shoot but one arrow from a challenging position (hunting scenario) after you have found the proper challenge relative to your goal. Retrieve it and wait till the next time, (not counting practice) and prove to yourself that you can operate under the one arrow policy everytime, in every weather and clothing format, from varied situations. When you have done this, you must pressure yourself to the next level! Never be satisfied. You can improve upon excellence by increasing the demand within your own Objectives. Your Goal should be to “Always improve upon your success. Rember in accomplishing this that:Archery much like any other “Perishable Skill” must always be maintained by repitition.

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