[Hiram]

in reply to: Corn feeders #57594

Delete and defer, No slightintended!:roll:

[Hiram]

in reply to: Corn feeders #57545

Defer!

[Hiram]

in reply to: WESLEY SPECIAL HOWARD HILL TAKE DOWN #54145

Think the poundage over before you buy a heavy one!! Shoot one or two before you commit. Mine is 48@28 and to really control the shot and do it without being a snap shooter is a challenge for me. Also, if you shoot three under? Get one tillered specifically at zero. They are harder to draw if they are not tillered for the string grasp method you use.

[Hiram]

in reply to: 1 finger over vs. 3 fingers under #17731

Duncan wrote: I’ve shot split finger my whole life. 3 under is just not really comfortable to me but I have practiced it from an elevated position at close ranges in low light conditions and feel it could provide an opportunity to take a shot I might otherwise pass up. For those who use it all the time, just keep doing what works for you.

Yessir!!

As usual,,spoken well!! Thanks for being here Fred!!!:)

Tiller of more than 1/4 positive is hard to tune with three under. It can be done but it is best to have a Bow adjusted to even,, or 0 zero tiller. I have one longbow that is 1/4 positive and tunes and shoots well with three under. The only problem which may be encountered tuning a postive tillerd Bow for 3 under is that once the nock height is adjusted according to the arrow entry, the Point of aim may well be a little low. Why?? well in most cases the arrow nocking point will have to be moved upward on the string to allow the bare shaft reading to correlate with the rear of the arrow nock to enter the target level up an down for the best tune. The nock being upward moves the rear of the arrow higher and effectively lowers the point, this moves the arrow to shoot a little lower sometimes, not always. The reason the nock tunes upward is to apply more pressure or weight on the top limb to compensate for the 3 under grasp. That is why many Bows shot three under tend to be louder, because the limb timing is off! Best to have a 0 tillered bow or 1/8th postive wityh the 3 under grasp on the string.

The reason people get a sore bottom finger with 3 under?? Yes,,too much pressure on it and may well be overbowed to begin with which means that; most of the pressure is on the bottom and should NOT be!. Best to have most of the pressure on the top two fingers and if this is not the case? You may well consider shoting a liter Bow till you are able to hold most the weight on the top two fingers, allowing the third one to have very little influence on the string at full draw. 3 under is best done when the third or bottom finger is just along for the ride and has minimal pressure at full draw.

Fred hit the nail when he said do what works best!

3 under allows for a higher position of the arrow closer to the eye, this reduces the gap between the arrow and the eye also. Split finger actually moves the arrow dlwnward about a finger distance or 5/8’s of an inch and equates to about 10-12 yards of elevation. This means you have just raised the point of the arrow upward for more elevation. Yes!!!!!split can be mastered for the close gap difference, (Byron Ferguson) but 3 under is really good for close up shooting, say 28 yards and in. I actually use the arrow tip as a split vision reference which means I only see it in the bottom periferal view. I mostly see the target as a the primary focus. My point on with the aroow tip and 3 under with a fast 45 pound Bow and a 400 grain arrow is 32 yards. Put a hunting weight arrow in the same Bow,,,say 550, and the point on changes to about 22 yards.

I think the way Fred shoots that the arrow doe’s NOT come into the equation as a reference,, to quote him ( I have read all his books and watched all his video) ” If you start seeing the arrow, it all goe’s to hell” Now for his way of shooting,,,this correct! It matters little at all if you shoot split and shoot totally instinctive, as Fred doe’s and doe’s really well for him and many others. For me,, I will sty with 3 under and actually shoot a 50 pound Howard Hill Bow 3 under!!!

Split doe’s have one major advantage,, By nature of the top and bottom finger actually holding the arrow, you can shoot the bow on it’s left side,,right side up.. right sode down and sideways!!! lol, and still keep the arrow on the Bow shelf. You can also shoot a tad looser nock pressure on the serving and get by with it. For 3 under, you must have a snug nock fit to hold the arrow on the string!!!

What is tiller?? Top and bottom limbs distance from the center line of the Bow. Split needs a little less tension to allow for the index finger input on the string, hence you have positive tiller built into or adjusted into the Bow. 3 under has less effect on the top limb and according to the influence or inputs onto the string by the shooter, usually has less an upward pressure on the strings pulol of the top and bottom limbs. To understand tiller si understand that a Bow (one strings, not compounds) is a simple spring! For them to shoot well, the vertical timing of both limbs dynamically is essential to have good tuning. Dynamic firing of the Bow that is tuned to the individuals shooter inputs on the string will allow both limbs to hit dynamic brace height and release the arrow without inducing more pressure on the rear of the arrow in the vertical upward or downward, which causes the arrow to be more consisitent with the shooters expectations for vertical consistency. Horizontal tuning is a whole other ball game with more than nine innings of typing! 🙂

[Hiram]

in reply to: Howard Bows #10684

Whole differebt ball game than my ILF recurves!!!!!!!! I have sore fingers etc. but,,,,,I’m liking it! I’m gonna hunt with nothing but longbows this season.:)

[Hiram]

in reply to: Why do you hunt #10681

Because I love the outdoors and the animals I hunt. I hunt to eat the things I kill. I hunt because it satifies my internal craving to to pursue, kill, eat. I WANT TO kill it and eat it!! It keeps me mentally happy, physically active, and releases plenty of Dopamine while doing so!! Natural high is what I’m after, and the woods and a Bow doe’s it for me!:)

[Hiram]

in reply to: Can't help myself (I'm building again) #54081

Looking forward Troy!!! Your very skilled and cannot wait to see whats next? Would like to see a D Bow with a tad of reflex toward the tips. Question,,,Dies Urac really bond as good as Smooth on etc. without any heat box treatment and hold up???? With fibergalss backing???

[Hiram]

in reply to: How About the Samick Sage? #50541

Best cheap Bow you can buy, actually go out and get decent performance. FF compatibe, fast enough, could hunt with one of the Sage’s and do well! For 150 bucks? Yes, hard to beat! Lancaster Archery has good customer service on a return if it was a bad one. I have one 45@28 that actually draws 48@28 and is good enough to match arrows and go kill an Elk.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Traditional Bowhunting Magazine #50536

” I guess it’s a bit old fashioned,” quote from Dave

Yep, It can hardly be explained the excitement a one string Bow and arrows brings to all of us Old children!!!:) Hope I never grow up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!>>>>———————>

[Hiram]

in reply to: What draw weight would you recommend? #48513

Some Bows may have different ways of measuring the draw length. Some will be from the deepest part of the grip while others may be from the rear of the riser.

Actual draw length on a Bow is from the front of the riser so, on a longbow or some recurves it may be measured differently in length to gain the marked weight on the Bow. This may require more or less drawlength accordingly.

My recurves all have the same riser which is a Black Bear metal riser. When drawn 26 inches from the deepest part of the of the grip, the actual measurement is set in front of the riser at 28 inches. This is why one should invest in a good digital Bow scale to really refine things.

Draw the Bow and have someone mark the arrow at full draw even with the front of the riser (sight window cut out) and then measure the length from the nock throat to the front of the arrow behind the point. This is your actual draw length on THAT Bow and may well change from Bow to Bow! AMO is fine but you cannot go by marked weight to reach draw length and draw weight, it must be measured by the individual!!!:)

[Hiram]

in reply to: Savannah Repair #47419

Would need a pic of the Bow strung (nicks) showing close ups.

[Hiram]

in reply to: What draw weight would you recommend? #47412

No one can tell you this! You will have to go to a Bow shop/draw different weights until you arrive at the right weight. You should be able to hold this weight at full draw for at least 8-10 secnds.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Stacking fixes? #45915

I have heard some horror stories on that particular model.

Design makes a big difference in usablility/smoothness/performanace.

[Hiram]

in reply to: How would we rate! #45913

Nate Bailey wrote: Something quick to add– the bow is the one thing that unifies all races, colors, and creeds. If we ALL look into ancestry we will find the bow. From Modoc to Turk, Turk to the famed English War Archers, the Bow has been there. It dominated most of history, for thousands of years archers have been honeing their skill. We as archers of the old way have stepped through this modern age, into a linieage that is beautifully rich.

Yes,,, and it always will be. A bow and arrowis easily constructed and makes for a suitable close range/long range weapon/food gathering instrument.

[Hiram]

in reply to: How would we rate! #43818

Living off a Bow?? Would be almost impossiblle to do in one spot and stay within the current game laws, especially if feeding a family year round.

[Author]

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