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  • Fletcher
      Post count: 177

      Welcome to the board, Tom. Lots of good knowledge freely shared here. I can heartily recommend T.J. Conrad’s book, ” The Traditional Bowhunter’s Handbook” as a great reference.

      Fletcher
        Post count: 177

        Is your broadhead alignment good or perfect? Did you paper tune or bareshaft your field point arrows? Broadheads are much more sensitive to the right spine than field points.

        Fletcher
          Post count: 177
          in reply to: broadheads #15346

          Croatoan, what size Ribteks are you looking for? I think I know where some are.

          Fletcher
            Post count: 177

            Wildschwein, you can go afield with full confidence in your Ace heads. I don’t know what their Rockwell is, but mine have always held their edge all the way thru. I sharpen my double bevel edges to a total 45 degree angle; 22.5 on either side.

            Fletcher
              Post count: 177

              I will agree with the others on the bow quiver. I’ve had a Great Northern on my longbow for many years. It is light, easily removed and fits all my longbows and recurves. A bow quiver won’t affect performance as long as the attach points are well into the meat of the fadeouts; keep them off of flexing part of the fade. You may find that you need a slightly lighter spine arrow or heavier point to shoot well, esp with a light riser bow.

              The GFA style is probably another good option.

              Fletcher
                Post count: 177

                Patrick, when you start having doubts, just remind yourself that wood arrows have served us for many thousands of years and we as a species are where we are partly because of them. Good wood arrows can absolutely be counted on.

                Rick

                Fletcher
                  Post count: 177

                  Many thanks for the kind words. My Grandfather had a sign in his shop that read “If it is worth doing, it is worth doing well.” That little sign has guided my work all of my life. I can’t really claim to be an aeronautical engineer, but am an aircraft mechanic by trade, which probably has something to do with my love and understanding of flying things, along with the attention to detail.

                  I’m happy to help folks with making their own arrows. It is where I started and only adds to the satisfaction of archery and bowhunting.

                  On a fun note, one of my arrows has already played its part in the taking of a nice 5×5 Colorado bull this season.:D Rick

                  Fletcher
                    Post count: 177

                    Our pioneers were real bowhunters who chose and made their tackle from a true love of archery. However, even Fred and Howard often had others build their bows and arrows.

                    “Traditional” bowhunters didn’t even exist until around 1970 and the popularity of compounds. Ever since the term was first coined, “Traditional” has meant conventional, non-compound archery equipment. Commercially made fiberglass laminated bows, aluminum and fiberglass arrows, sights, elevated rests, stabilizers, simple hook releases and a bunch or other accessories were all being used well before Allen started playing with his contraption. Traditional quickly came to define longbows, recurves, composite and self bows, generally shot barebow.

                    What is or isn’t traditional has been hashed out over many campfires and websites over the years and has continued to be as stated above. If you need an opinion other than mine, go to the Compton website or read an issue of Traditional Bowhunter Magazine. You can choose redefine traditional for yourself if you wish, but you aren’t going to find many takers. And no, we don’t need another classification. What someone else chooses to shoot really isn’t important.

                    Fletcher
                      Post count: 177

                      Would you not consider the bowhunters of the 1950’s and 60’s to be “traditional” bowhunters just because they used bows and arrows by Bear or Pearson? Archery has never required an individual to make their own eauipment. About as far back in history as you want to look, there have been those in every tribe or village that made much of the equipment for others, just like not everyone hunted their own meat or grew their own crops.

                      The fact that you make and use all of your own gear puts you in a rather exclusive group and the personal satisfaction you receive is all yours. It does not however, make someone less of a traditional bowhunter because they happened to get their bow from the village bowyer.

                      I have made enough bows, arrows, strings and other equipment to know what I should make for myself and what to defer to others with more knowledge and experience.

                      Fletcher
                        Post count: 177

                        Broadheads are more critical than field points and will show errors in tuning and form that field points ignore. Starting with the simple things, I’d suggest rechecking your broadhead alignment. Pretty good or close doesn’t work very well; they need to be spot on. While you’re messing with the broadheads, change a couple to horizontal and see it that helps. Check the nocks for straight, too. Another thing is to paper tune your setup to make sure you have the right spine and nocking point adjustment. This ought to keep you entertained for a day or two.:lol:

                        Good looking arrows, BTW. Are they hand spined or factory spined? Straight?

                        Fletcher
                          Post count: 177

                          Well, Congratrulations, Patrick! There is no going back now.

                          Glad to see you making your own. Any archery is satisfying, but when you put more of yourself into it, the personal satisfaction really swells. Just wait until you are standing over a critter that fell to your self made arrow.

                          Fletcher
                            Post count: 177

                            For hunting, a 62″ mild D/R longbow, either a Robertson or a Great Northern Critter Gitter. I also have a 58″ Pronghorn TD and a 58″ Selway Lil Mag (now Centaur) that are both GREAT hunters. I target shoot with a Griffin Tsunami. Then there are the ’67 Bear Griz and the Hoyt PH1 that I really need to get into the woods with.

                            So many bows, so little time.

                            Fletcher
                              Post count: 177

                              Steve Branson wrote: Do you do all of your shooting with wood shafts? I have tried them, but couldnt really keep em straight very long….

                              Wood arrows require a little more care than cans or carbons, and you need to start with good shafts. I see lots of them being bent just by the way folks pull them from the target. Just remember, if it can be straighteded, it can be bent. They also need to be well sealed. I’ve been shooting wood arrows for over 25 years and have some that old that are still straight.

                              Fletcher
                                Post count: 177

                                There have been a bunch of Zwickey Deltas in my quiver over the years. Likely to have some with me again this year. Pretty much as good as it gets.

                                Fletcher
                                  Post count: 177
                                  in reply to: Selecting a bow? #44896

                                  If the arrows don’t match the bow, you are pretty much just shooting for feel. There are many variables that determine what spine a bow will shoot best. Usually, the bowyer will have arrows for the bow you are trying out. He wants it to shoot well for you.

                                  When it comes to shooting well, the arrow is much more important than the bow.

                                Viewing 15 posts - 91 through 105 (of 177 total)