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in reply to: short longbow recommendation #21879
Treetopflier wrote: Fletcher — Can you please provide website links for either of these? Thanks, ttf
jkbows.com
centaurarchery.com
in reply to: Stain/Seal/Cap/Crest/Glue Compatibility #15247There really isn’t a set way that things have to be done. Most important for me is to start with good shafts. There is nothing I can do to a crappy shaft to make a good arrow from it. Next is to straighten them. I then stain, dip or wipe two coats of clear gloss oil base polyurethane, crown and crest if desired, and a final top coat of clear gloss. Let that dry very well then nock and fletch with Duco. Nock and point tapers and alignment are important.
in reply to: short longbow recommendation #14082The Jason Kendall Kanati is a great bow and one of the best values available today, IMO. The Centaur by Jim Neaves is another “short longbow” with great performance and shooting habits.
in reply to: arrow flight issue #63710By looking at the paper tear you should be able to see if you have a spine or nock point issue. One of the things I like about paper tuning is that the fletching can stay on the arrow.
in reply to: Heavy broadheads #36136Ace Super Express 200 gr.
in reply to: Number decals for arrows #26065I’ve seen them on ebay.
in reply to: Changing broadhead weight #12563It MIGHT be possible. Going to a hevier point will require a slightly stiffer spine, about 5 lb when going from a 125 to a 160 gr point. If you are a little stiff to start with you may find the heavier point to shoot a little better. Points are cheap and easy to change, give it a try.
in reply to: turkey feathers #58942Try this guy, he does good work. Bowjock@verizon.net
in reply to: Hickory Arrows #57793Allegheny should have some as well as JPE Traditional Archery, both are TBM advertisers.
in reply to: Archerforever Where are you!!??? #55625I can recommend the Bowdoc, or Rich Lopez. The 1953 date on your K Mag is the patent date. They were first made in the early 60’s, 63 I think.
in reply to: 1960's wing bows #53362The Wings are great bows. There are three “groups” of them: The original Wing, Wing by Head Ski, and AMF Wing. Collectors like th originals, but they are all good bows. I think most of the Slim Lines are AMF’s. These bows were made before the advent of hard strings, and Dacron (B50, B55, B500) is recommended. You may do fine with a hard string, but you also may not. Congratulations and enjoy!:D
in reply to: Anyone own a Shakespeare? #51233I bought my first real recurve around 1966-7. It was/is a Shakespeare Necedah, 40+ lb and 55 inches. I still have it. Great little bow.:D
in reply to: Nock Tension #50021Iron Bull’s fit is perfect, altho I like my hunting nock fit to be just a slight bit snug so they don’t fall off too easy when I bump them on stand. The best way to adjust is with your serving. Sanding or heating nocks too much can weaken them. If they are loose, you can wrap a bit of dental floss where the nock goes to snug up the fit.
in reply to: Appropriate discussion? #47872Quote: shooting a 62″ Martin Hatfield 55# … draw 28″… shafts are 2016s tipped with a 125gn Wensel Woodsman … shaft, minus the broadhead, is 31.25″.
Problems with his set-up:
1. According to the Easton Arrow Selection Chart, he should be shooting a 2219,2315, or a 2415 arrow. The 2016 arrow he is shooting is for a bow in the poundage range of 29-34 pounds. He can attempt to tune this set-up all day long but will never get good arrow flight. I personally would recommend he shoot the 2219 arrow if he stays with aluminum.”The current Easton charts are WAY off for recurves and longbows and very different from the charts of the 70’s and 80’s when aluminum was king. I have no idea as to why Easton has changed their charts, but today they are confusing and worthless at best.
A 2016 has an AMO spine of 59 lb, same today as 30 years ago. It will be weak for a 55 lb Hatfield,esp at 31.25″; a 2018 or 2117 would be better and would allow a litte extra point weight, a good thing. Shorter would help, too. He would need a brick on the front to get a 2219 to tune.
in reply to: Stiff Side #47864I’ve spine checked a lot of shafts and find there isn’t much difference between spine with or across the grain, rarely more than a couple of pounds. That two pounds may be enough to move you away from good arrow flight, tho. Spining against the edge of the grain normally gives the stiffest spine, but not always. I spine all of my shafts against the grain and build the arrows that way, too.
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