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in reply to: A long look at fletching and EFOC #32446
Smithhammer wrote: Bump w/ a question – is it just me, or do other people find that EFOC-related discussions tend to draw a knee-jerk reaction in some trad circles? Some people almost seem to see this stuff a sacrilege (since it wasn’t what Howard Hill did…), or contend that it’s all theory and that “the real world is different.” And I continue to be amazed at the number of people who say it only applies to “big” animals. I don’t really care that much what others choose to do, but it’s a trend I’ve definitely noticed and I’m scratching my head as to why.
Regardless, I find threads like this really great and thought-provoking. Just because it’s “traditional” doesn’t mean there still isn’t room for exploration and refinement, in my opinion. Thanks for all the great info here.
Yes, Smith, I see it too. Most people are resistant to change, esp when the new goes against what they have been taught, believed and professed in the past. Meaningful change takes time, but the evidence is there and groundwork laid. Like those who oppose high FOC and single bevels, shoot what you believe to be best and let the results speak for themselves. We all have much to learn.
in reply to: My New Northern Mist Whisper #32429Very nice, Patrick. Being crafted from native woods will give it great spirit and medicine when stalking your Michigan hunting grounds.
in reply to: A long look at fletching and EFOC #31241Troy, I tail taper about 10 inches to 5/16 but my front taper is only about 4″ and just enuf to get the end of the taper inside the ferrule. Generally that is about 11/32 or slightly less. With such a short taper, the spine change is unnoticeable even on my meter, much less shooting. I do believe it makes the point end much less succeptible to breakage.
Bullseye, we would be interested in hearing about your earlier observations. Years ago when I would make a set of arrows, I would mount some with 125 points and some with 160’s to see which was going to shoot best. It seemed like the 160’s always won, and I eventually quit messing with 125’s. I was learning about FOC before I knew what it was.:D
in reply to: Left or Right Bevel……??? #30747All that metal stuff back them was cast or forged, hence “smith” in the title.
Don’t know that I would call it an answer, but some thoughts, yes. The armour bodkin pints were a large and heavy point with three or four flat sides and did indeed pierce the armour. On a standard shaft they would have had pretty good FOC. The English longbow was the artillery of its day. A “clothyard” shaft was drawn to the shooters shoulder and launched at a high angle for maximum distance into the oncoming enemy ranks. I have no idea about their FOC, but they would have been some massive arrows.
in reply to: A long look at fletching and EFOC #30736I’ve done very little work with cane arrows and shafts and have not footed any. I don’t find wood footings to be heavy enuf to make any significant difference in FOC, replacing wood or cane with a slightly heavier wood. IMO, the real advantage to footings is their increased strength at the point. An osage or lam maple foot is WAY stronger than a plain POC, fir or spruce tip. I like to front taper my shafts just enuf to get the point/shaft contact inside the ferrule to eliminate the sharp stress riser at the back of the ferrule.
in reply to: Left or Right Bevel……??? #30721Speaking from a fletcher’s point of view, the old common fletch was left wing. When turkey’s had their wings clipped to keep them from flying, it was easier for a right handed worker to hold the right wing with his left had while cutting the feathers with his right. The Right wing feathers were trimmed so there were more lefts for fletching. It was also the norm for RH shooters to shoot left wing (and LH shooters right wing) for the clearance reason mentioned above. With the advent of elevated rests and screw in points, left helical had a tendency to unscrew points and the clearance thing was no longer an issue, so right wing became popular.
I’m a die hard wood arrow guy and shoot RH so I use left wing fletch for me and my RH shooters. I also have jigs set up for RW fletch and lefty shooters.
The terms arrowsmith and fletcher go back to old England. The arrowSMITH made the points, the fletcher made the arrow.
in reply to: A long look at fletching and EFOC #29649The old regular arrows and broadheads have been killing things for a long time and will continue to do so. That doesn’t mean we can’t do better. I’ve managed to achieve 21.6% at 630 grains with a wood shaft arrow and I’m hoping to get a little more as the results were impressive and I love the way the EFOC shoots. I made my first single bevel kill just last Jan and it was very impressive, too. I plan to keep working on both.
in reply to: Primitive Spot'n'stalk #10779Nicely done, Clay. Thanks for sharing it.
in reply to: Quietest Fletching #10770If shape is what you are asking about, most of have found parabolics to be the quietest. Most feather noise seems to come from a flutter in tall or pointed sections of the feather. The A&A has a sharp rear point, but is reported to be very quiet as well, which may be the result of being 1/2 inch tall and still a fairly stiff feather.
in reply to: New heavyweight Tuffhead is here #59156Thanks, Dave, but no need. I have some Woody Weights and should be able to get close enuf. I’m thinking a 190 fp and 100 ww plus some lead. What wood shaft spine and point weight shoots best from your Shrew now?
Nice hogs, King!
in reply to: New heavyweight Tuffhead is here #58862Fir varies a lot in weight and there are always some lighter ones. I’ve never tuned for a 300 gr broadhead, so I’m in new territory here. I was thinking the Shrew was cut to center. Figuring that, a 29.5″ BOP and a 200 gr head I get 75+. I don’t know how much to add for 300 gr, but I have to figure you will be around 85 at least. I may have to make up a 300 gr field point and see what it takes. 400 gr in an 85 spine is gonna be pretty rare, but it would definitely put you over 20%.
Still working the new 40 hr+ gig, so arrow building is pretty slow. I like doing it but it doesn’t do well at paying the bills.
in reply to: New heavyweight Tuffhead is here #58189Dave, what spine deflection do you think you will need for those 300 gr Tuffheads?
Forgewoods are great shafts, but being compressed, they are pretty heavy, too.
I like the sitka spruce, but they carry less spine than does fir and shafts over about 70 lb spine are going to be 23/64.
in reply to: Asbell Pullover #58184I’ve been hunting in one for several years and it has served me very well. Just ordered another one to pick up at the K’zoo Expo.
in reply to: 35-pound longbow proves just enough… #21943That is a trophy indeed! The color is just right. Few things eat as good as fruit ripe from the tree.
in reply to: Parabolic, Shield, Banana etc etc etc #19452In my experience, there is virtually no difference in how different fletch shapes shoot as long as they are pretty much the same area and angle. I like the look of a shield, but para and a low banana tend to be a bit quieter, altho I’ve never seen it matter to a deer. In the end, it comes down to what you want to shoot.
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