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in reply to: spruce shafts #29002
STC, I’m just outside of Springfield. If you can get them to me, I’ll cut and taper them for you.
in reply to: favorite hot glue #53132I’ve been using the Kimsha Quick Stick for several years and have great success with it. It’s a large dia piece, much more glue than the Bohning stick and holds very well, in both hot and cold weather. It doesn’t get hard and brittle like the Bohning can. Most of the trad dealers carry it.
in reply to: Short recurves…suggestions? #11626Chuck Deshler at Two Tracks makes a really good 50″ recurve.
in reply to: Favorite AMO for hunting? #60838I like 62″ in a mild D/R longbow and 58 in a hybrid or recurve. I’m going to be field testing a new 52″ recurve so I’ll see if things change.
in reply to: New to me Schulz longbow #50750I watched that one too, Codger. Glad you got it. Very good price for a Schulz, IMO. Wouldn’t sell my Trophy Hunter for that. Great piece of history there, enjoy it!
I like regular shield or parabolic die cuts, 4″ long and about 9/16 high. Banana cuts the same height work good, too. Taller fletch and/or pointy ends tend to vibrate in flight causing noise and eating up energy. As with most things, it is easier to deal with too much than not enuf, so I try to err on the side of a little extra feather with broadhead arrows, but too much extra is just gonna cost energy that I would rather have go toward driving the point.
ausjim wrote:
4. I’m told by engineering friends that the most efficient wing is a disc. That is as a relationship between drag and lift. Perhaps the best fletching design is a semi-circle… but if that were true wouldn’t airliners be the same?
I’m not an engineer, just a 40+ year aircraft mechanic so maybe I don’t know anything, but the most efficient aircraft, such as gliders, have long span narrow chord wings. Short wing acft, such as fighters, are more manuverable but take lots of power to fly and glide like rocks. Which can you throw further, a Frisbee or a boomerang?
in reply to: what quivers do you prefer? #50722Grumpy, be careful with that thing if you decide to put broadheads in it. We had those open bow quivers in the 60’s and lots of guys cut themselves up pretty badly with them.
I’ve used a bowquiver for as long as I can remember, A GN strap on for the past many years. A backquiver never hunted well for me and the tube types haven’t interested me as yet. I’m gonna give an Asbell a good try over the summer.
in reply to: BUILDING THE BOW #50713Sounds like fun, Grumpy! Looking forward to it. 😀
in reply to: What broadheads do you like? #50711As evidenced by this thread, there are almost as many broadheads available as there are thoughts and theories about them. Most all of the major “trad style” broadheads being made today are strong and of good steel and construction. Our learning to get them SHARP and placing them where they need to be is the really important part. Even with all of the experience here, none of us come anywhere close to gathering the data and records recorded by Dr. Ashby and I encourage everyone to include his findings in your final choice. While I know that the narrow heads get the job done, my mind isn’t comfortable with them and I prefer a wider broadhead, at least 1.25″ wide. This led me to using the Grizzly ElGrande/Kodiak long single bevel. I must admit I was VERY impressed with their performance and have had them in my quiver since. I still like a good 3-blade for turkeys and wouldn’t hesitate to shoot an Ace Express or Zwickey Delta at anything.
Good luck with the Ribtecs; I found the 160’s to be a great head.
in reply to: shafts: tapered vs. parallel #50598handirifle wrote: [quote=Tombow]Seems to me you’d use 5/16 as that would be the diameter of the nock end of the arrow.
But my tapering tool, would not allow the 5/16″ taper tool to fit over an 11/32″ shaft, at least I don’t think so.
If you used the 11/32 tool, would the 5/16 nock fit when the shaft is tapered?
Yes. The end of the shaft is tapered to a 5/16 dia at the nock taper.
in reply to: shafts: tapered vs. parallel #47079Increasing FOC is a matter of adding weight up front and removing it from the back, so you are looking in the right directions. Tapering is a good start. How much weight and spine is lost depends on the length of taper, spine and weight. A 10 inch taper on a 500 gr 80 lb shaft will lose about 2-3 lb spine and 15 gr weight. I taper all my shafts and spine them after tapering. If you buy your shafts already tapered, ask if they are spined after tapering.
As you might guess, I like tapered shafts. They just shoot better for me. It’s all theory, but along with moving the CG forward, I feel it helps the arrow flex more evenly and recover from paradox quicker, kinda like it “tillers” the arrow.
in reply to: Wood, Woody weights, high FOC, etc. #46124HIgh FOC with wood arrows is a challenge and definitely has its limits, but getting 20% is pretty doable. You’ll need the lightest shaft possible and a heavy point. I like Sitka Spruce shafting for this. Sitka has the highest strength to weight ratio of all wood and is a very good arrow wood. Tapering also helps as it removes about 10 grains of weight from the tail of the arrow with a minimal change in spine. The further you move the balance forward, the less effect additional point weight makes and the greater the effect of less tail weight. The 200 gr Grizzly/Kodiak is a great broadhead. Learn to get it sharp and it will serve you well and get you into the upper teens FOC with a light shaft.
The secret to point alignment is straight shafts and true and accurate tapers.
in reply to: Arrow specs and charts… NEED HELP #46084I absolutely concur with Dr. Ashby’s observation on centershot bows. A finger release will start the arrow flexing in one direction, but with no bow to have to bend around, it takes a very stiff arrow to come out straight. I don’t want a bow cut past center.
Just to clarify, center cut and center shot are not the same.
I have no desire to mess with carbon arrows, Joe, but carbon test kits might be a good add on to the Tuffhead line. Test arrows, whether carbon, alum or wood, are absolutely the best way to get the right spine.
in reply to: Calculating FOC: question for Dr. Ashby #46066At least some of the question over how we measure FOC has been my fault, as I’m the only guy I know who really has an issue with the AMO standard method. I apologize for taking so long to get here, but I needed to get my thoughts lined out, plus I’ve been busy and my computer died. I’m an aircraft mechanic by trade and have been messing with flying things for about 40 years. FOC in airplanes is called center of gravity and it is measured or calculated for every airplane out there. It is the theoretical point around which a flying object moves. As Dr. Ashby mentioned, the true center is “center of pressure”. However, this can’t be measured without some pretty serious test equipment, starting with a wind tunnel. CG/FOC is very close to center of pressure and for all practical purposes, the same.
When I state an FOC, I generally state whether it is real or AMO, just so others will know what I’m talking about. If all we are looking for is a reference point, then I guess the AMO method is OK, but if we really want to know what the FOC is and its effect on arrow flight and performance, we can’t ignore the length of the point. That is why it is important to me. The whole arrow is what is flying, not just the shaft. Changing from a field point to a broadhead, even though the same weight, can have a noticeable effect on arrow flight and I suspect the change in balance has something to do with it. I also believe that using the AMO standard to determine performance parameters is going to give incorrect numbers simply because the input value is incorrect. The magic 20% we are looking for really isn’t 20%.
I’m gonna go shoot some arrows.
in reply to: Bowhunter education for out of state #36356STL = St. Louis, Missouri
We used to have some NBEF courses in IL, but I haven’t heard of one in quite a while. NBEF home office might be able to give you a lead on one. Good luck!
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