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  • Crystalshrimp
      Post count: 125

      Does anyone know where I can get the 100 gr inserts or heavier????

      Brett

      I just oredered my brass inserts from 3rivers yesterday. I always use 100 grn. brass inserts, they sell them by the dozen..
      .

      Crystalshrimp
        Post count: 125

        Wildschwein wrote: So what was it you were shooting at?

        I was out looking for Does or Spikes. Missed on a Doe, a nice chunky one. This sport is not for the impatient..

        Crystalshrimp
          Post count: 125
          in reply to: Nilgai #44184

          Bone wrote: What refuge you plan to hunt in Texas.

          Laguna Atascosa Refuge, You can apply on August 1. If you apply within the first week, chances are you will get picked. 60 bucks, you cant beat it.

          Crystalshrimp
            Post count: 125
            in reply to: Arrow building #42003

            LimbLover wrote: The GT 3555 should work as the 5575 is a whole lot stiffer than people give them credit for.

            If you go with the CX, I would suggest a Heritage 350 over the 250. Especially with that kind of point weight. I shot a similar setup out of my 55# LB.

            Correct me if I’m wrong here. The Suggested 5575 GT’s are not a bad choice yet the lighter arrow with a sweet FOC is the preferred Choice. I can see that with the arrows I’m currently shooting. Question is, Is it safe for my Bow? Is this to light of an arrow? If By cutting an arrow it stiffens the spine yet by adding tip weight I weaken it.

            Crystalshrimp
              Post count: 125
              in reply to: Arrow building #41460

              ripforce wrote: Spine is real critical especially with carbons, cutting carbons will also effect the spine ! what pound bow and draw length are you? As to cock feathers, the carbons usually have turnable nocks, they are not fixed like a wood arrow would be!

              Im shooting a 55# longbow. The arrows suggested to me are some easton 500’s. cut at 29 with a 100grn. insert and a 150grn. BH. They are hitting theyre mark at 20yds. I’d like to try Goldtips 5575’s But dont know what a good Foc should be? I did get off the subject of spine. just thought id kill 2 birds with one stone.

              Crystalshrimp
                Post count: 125
                in reply to: Bow (Speed) #42715

                2blade wrote: I shoot all my bows through a chrono just to see whats going on. I recently shot 3 r/d longbows and 1 recurve with foam core limbs with the same arrow through the ole chrono. 3 of these bows had draw weights within 2 pounds. One was a 55 pounder. All 4 bows shoot within 4 fps of one another. But the foam cored recurve and the foam cored hybrid are the fastest of the 4, they are also 2 pounds or more less draw weight than the other two. One non foam r/d longbow was 55 pounds and was the slowest of the 4, the other was 2 pounds heavier and 2 fps slower. Both the foam cored r/d longbow and foam cored recurve draw 51 pounds and the recurve has a 1 fps speed edge. With all that said, you’re not going to be able to tell any difference when it comes to 4 fps. But, drawing 51 pounds and getting 4 fps more speed over a 55 pounder does have its advantages. I shoot a heck of a lot better with 51 than I do 55.

                I like what i hear, thanks 2blade. Tell me more about this foam core stuff.. This is the first Ive heard of it. And who is using this Tech.

                Crystalshrimp
                  Post count: 125
                  in reply to: Bow (Speed) #41889

                  David Petersen wrote: I can offer info from only one top bowyer, Gregg Coffey, who makes every Shrew by hand. We recently had this conversation and Gregg said that while a recurve may be a very few fps faster than a longbow, all else equal, the new limb technologies — foam cores, carbon lams, cross-weaved glass, etc. — can easily equal that out. And too, many if not most modern glass longbows are of the deflex-reflex design which can be thought of as offering most of the same benefits as a recurve, but with the recurve spread throughout the limbs rather than all at the tip. That’s an oversimplification but you get the picture. Gregg’s recommendation is to go with whichever design you feel best shooting and looking at — aesthetical appeal will count more in satisfaction in the long run than a few fps one way or another. And as the Ashby study reveals, with the right arrow setup speed is overrated. Now, all that said, certainly the average recurve will be notably faster than the average old-style straight-limbed longbow, given equal draw weight. I own two r/d longbows and recently sold a beautiful recurve simply because the longbows appeal to me more on a gut level. It’s all fun, dave p

                  I agree with you, I just love the way longbows feel and shoot. Do you own Shrews? YOu like them

                  Crystalshrimp
                    Post count: 125

                    Cottonwood wrote: I don’t have any knowledge about them, but a bit about White Wolf Custom Bows, that make a great short bow called the Wind Warrior.

                    http://www.whitewolfbows.com

                    The Wind Warrior is a longbow, but because of style and design measures less. Look them up, and then see specifications link.

                    They have some sweet looking bows at some nice looking prices. Have you ever hunted with one? What are they like?

                    Crystalshrimp
                      Post count: 125
                      in reply to: Stiff Side #37792

                      Cody wrote: Thinking about trying to fletch my first set of POCs and I read somewhere that the cock feather needs to be set on the stiff side of the arrow. Just wondering if this is true. I bought a dozen of the Tred Barta series form 3 Rivers and have looked them over and I can’t see that the cock feather is set on any specific area of the grain. A spine tester is the only way to test it I guess but I don’t have one. I’m sure it matters some but just curious if it might be a little overkill. Thanks for any info

                      Wish I could answer your question. Any replies would help me out as well. I do have a question for you though. Which Fletching Glue are you Using?

                      Crystalshrimp
                        Post count: 125

                        Gorbin wrote: [quote=Crystalshrimp]

                        Looks like a some beaver and some spiders on the ends

                        That’s what I was thinking. I’ve never seen a set up like that before and was wondering how/why he’s using, and I’m assuming he has matched set on other end, 6 silencers: 4 spiders and 2 beavers! 😯 I’m new to the game.. But you know what, I think it looks cool.. Im not sure if it would affect arrow flight. I like it though. Looks like one quiet bow..And as for the arrows, They are works of art.

                        Crystalshrimp
                          Post count: 125
                          in reply to: Internet Retailer #36509

                          dwcphoto wrote: I’ve read somethings in different posts about 3 Rivers and feel compelled to put my 2 cents in. First of all, in my area there are very few options for traditional equipment and supplies, so I ended up searching online for things I needed. I wish there would be somebody local, but it’s all compound stuff around here. I found 3Rivers and, due to my inexperience, I called them for opinions quite a bit while shopping. I’ve always found their tech guys to be very helpful, spending as much time on the phone as I needed. I never feel rushed at all.
                          Recently, I did have a misunderstanding about trying to get a quiver repaired. It didn’t go well at first, but Dale Karch called me and straightened it out, beyond what I was asking for. In the end, I can only say I’m a happy customer and will continue to purchase supplies from them. Of course, I’ll always look around for other options, as should anyone trying to stay educated, but they’ll be always be my first stop to be sure. Thanks.

                          I’m in the same boat.. and have been given all the time I need to have my questions answered aswell. To me that counts for alot. I Cant leave out others that have been more than willing to lead me in the right direction. The Boys out at Dryad Bows are just as helpfull. Customer Service goes along way.

                          Crystalshrimp
                            Post count: 125

                            Gorbin wrote: dabbersold- that’s an interesting string silencer set up you’ve got there. And some sweet arrows.

                            Looks like a some beaver and some spiders on the ends

                            Crystalshrimp
                              Post count: 125

                              That is some nice work!!

                              Crystalshrimp
                                Post count: 125
                                in reply to: BH weight #30983

                                George D. Stout wrote: You tune the arrow to the bow, without respect to certain head weights. You don’t need EFOC, you need to tune the arrow…simply. Find the tip weight that gives you perfect arrow flight…that is the most important aspect of an effective arrow. Once you get that, than make sure brodheads are very sharp and you are golden. Don’t worry about percentages.

                                Thanks to everyone for the great advice. I’ll let the Bow do the talking… that makes perfect sense now

                              Viewing 14 posts - 76 through 89 (of 89 total)