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    • Crystalshrimp
      Post count: 125

      I’m shooting a 42#@28″, My DL in 27″.
      I’m currently using a Goldtip 35555 arrow. I have absolutely no clue as to the amount of Grains needed to get the job done. I am a beginner and could use all the advice possible. 75 grains all the way to 160+ grains, What determines the weight I should be using? any suggestions

    • RedTape
      Post count: 51

      I’d read everything in the Ashby forum. For a bow that weight you’re going to want EFOC, in other words a lot of weight up front, so forget about the light weight broadheads. I’m sure others with far more experience than I will jump in with some recommendations on exact equipment, so I’ll let the experts take it from here. In the meantime, read the Ashby studies to get a good understanding of the various factors that effect arrow penetration.

    • John Carter
      Post count: 71

      Let’s assume your arrow length is around 28″.

      I’d be looking at 145-165g in front of a 100g brass or steel insert,just to get your spine in the ball park.

      I’m pretty conservative about these things so on second thoughts I think you could probably go up to 200g.

      I shoot GT 3555’s cut to 28″ from my 45lb longbow with a total of 225g up front an get great arrow flight.

      That’s a 100g brass insert and a 125g broadhead,,,with no hesitation in going to a 145g head.

      You can buy test field point kits from 3Rivers that I’ve found to be good for playing with different point wheights.

      The set I have ranges from 100g too 220g,,,two of each size.

      All the best,
      John.

    • Fletcher
      Post count: 177

      Arrow flight is going to determine you point weight. Perfect arrow flight is your goal in tuning and trumps everything else in arrow performance and accuracy Personally, I don’t like to go below 500 grains total for a hunting arrow and the more weight you can get up front (foc) the better.

    • Jason Wesbrock
      Member
      Post count: 762

      Like Rick said, proper tuning is going to determine your broadhead weight. Bareshaft tune your setup, and then you’ll know how heavy of a broadhead you’ll need. Listen to the bow; it’ll tell you what it wants.

    • Robin ConradsRobin Conrads
      Admin
      Post count: 907

      We published a Feature Article called Tuning 101 which has some helpful information about bareshaft tuning.

    • George D. Stout
      Post count: 256

      You tune the arrow to the bow, without respect to certain head weights. You don’t need EFOC, you need to tune the arrow…simply. Find the tip weight that gives you perfect arrow flight…that is the most important aspect of an effective arrow. Once you get that, than make sure brodheads are very sharp and you are golden. Don’t worry about percentages.

    • Crystalshrimp
      Post count: 125

      George D. Stout wrote: You tune the arrow to the bow, without respect to certain head weights. You don’t need EFOC, you need to tune the arrow…simply. Find the tip weight that gives you perfect arrow flight…that is the most important aspect of an effective arrow. Once you get that, than make sure brodheads are very sharp and you are golden. Don’t worry about percentages.

      Thanks to everyone for the great advice. I’ll let the Bow do the talking… that makes perfect sense now

    • sapcut
      Post count: 159

      You don’t HAVE to have EFOC to kill an animal…but an EFOC arrow is easier to tune, more forgiving with a much wider spine widow and it is much more lethal regarding penetration.

    • Fletcher
      Post count: 177

      I agree with George. Perfect arrow flight is your goal as it trumps all other factors in arrow performance and accuracy. I’ve been shooting heavy heads for several years and like a high FOC, but I won’t sacrifice arrow flight to get it. I have found that paper tuning works best for me and gives me the best arrow flight. Whatever head weight tunes the best is what gets mounted on my arrows. Rick

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