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  • Brock63
      Post count: 15

      i have worn a boonie style for many, many, many years…since I have plenty of them from time in military until I retired in 2004…haha. One I have now is lightweight ripstop and going strong. Keeps rain off, sun off, allows easy insertion of cedar, pine or other fragrant leaves if desired or even a HS Scent wafter and can ball up and put in pack if needed.

      I am interested in maybe another type when my last two expire and go to the trash heap….have always liked some by Noggintops. I like the Broner Ventura and also the Cavanaugh Storm
      http://www.noggintops.com/page.cfm?p=25

      Brock63
        Post count: 15

        It really is archer dependent if you stick with the well known names there are no worries of poor quality or being taken for your money….

        Schafer Silvertip, Black Widow MA series, Habu, Robertson Stykbow Falcons, Blacktail Elites, Cascade, Wes Wallace, Bob Lee, Bruin, Marriah Thermals, Shrew, Kim-Sha, Brackenbury, Fedora, and Bill Stewarts with multi-cam limbs if you can find one for sale since his death. In my opinion these are guys that have been around for a while and are solid performers building beautiful but expensive custom bows. Some may argue the Widows are not true custom since they are nearly all machine made now…..and that the Habu is following behind but their tolerances are at levels that no hand made bow can match when it comes to repeatability and overall reliability.
        That being said….I prefer these bows as they are what is on my wall and except for two are long time companions in the woods:

        Jeffery Royal Hunter – plain bow but reliable performer

        Habu- smooth, fast, accurate…high performance

        Bear Grizzly- nice short bow, not as accurate for long draw lenghts but nice bow…but not custom.

        Browning Cobra II- beautiful bow, great shooter, rivals many custom bows of today with beauty and performance. Also consider Browning Explorer II.

        Robertson Stykbow- light, nimble, smooth and exceptional performance…my newest hunting recurve

        Strunk- vine maple selfbow…hard hitter
        Mattingly- osage with static tips….fast shooter

        Bows I desire to own still after years of lust based on beauty and performance:

        Schafer Silvertip
        Bill Stewart with yew limbs
        Browning Explorer II

        Best thing you can do is look at pictures and various wood combinations….and then go to a shoot or see if they have a Try Before You Buy program like Robertson Stykbow. When you find that combination of beauty that makes your heart sing….combined with the shootability that makes your soul clear and the world seem like a more pleasant place….then just buy it. Got to follow your heart and soul on these big purchase…if it is not tugging at you in some way internally then it is not your favorite bow in my opinion.

        Dick Robertson has quite a few nice ones available and ready to be adopted at http://www.robertsonstykbow.com/pages/fatal.html

        I contacted him looking for one of his Montana Falcons used…and he offered to let me shoot one of his Fatal Styk Y recurves that had a blemish in it. It was beautiful and almost exactly what I was looking for…and it shot…it shot like a dream…smooth, silky, light in hand, and with accurate authority. So I bought it and at a discount due to a blemish I cannot find but he knows is there in limb glass.

        Good luck…and shoot some bows…and follow your heart and soul and you will be more than pleased.

        Brock63
          Post count: 15

          3 Rivers has ALWAYS Been a top notched company in many many years of sales…even when Todd and his partner owned it before Dale Karch bought into it.

          Others I have always had good results…Kustom King ARchery but only when they used to actually be known for their custom wooden arrows and taper shafting. Now they no longer make custom wooden arrows…what a shame.

          Raptor Archery (Ted Fry) is another I have always had good results….as well as Screaming Eagle when Paul Brunner owned it. I heard it is coming back but only for tree stands and such….so far.

          Kim Sha Archery in Maryland….good arrows, gloves, strings…and a fine bow as well.

          Linda Brackenbury for strings….I also got some good ones from Lee “Dogman” when he was dabbling in business.

          For general gear there may be one or two negative comments out of 10s of thousands…but I still stick by 3 Rivers and Raptor Archery as two of finest…3Rivers for general gear….Ted Fry at Raptor for primitive gear.

          Brock63
            Post count: 15

            I never ever considered having two different weight bows for target and hunting…maybe because I only saw 3D shoots as a way to practice FOR HUNTING later…so I wanted to shoot my hunting setup and take hunting shots no matter the scoring circles…so would give myself +5 for kill shots, -5 for anywhere on animal that was not in vitals, 0 pts for miss.

            My first recurve as adult was 60# at 28″….then I have one 60# @29….but lately due to injured shoulders and old age been getting bows arond 57@29….but this year shooting 60@28 Jeffery Royal Hunter…first bow bought as an adult that did not have wheels…from early 90s.

            I agree with shooting what you are most accurate and confident while also giving the best penetration on the game you hunt. There are compromises in everything….compromise draw weight and you lose a flatter trajectory, energy, etc…..compromise practice and you lose arrow flight, accuracy, confidence. I also agree that in perfect situations there is a very broad list of workable solutions…but when the shit hits the fan…you are left with the good solid ones as the others fail to perform.

            I have always been advocate of prepare for worst and hope for best.

            keep em sharp,

            ron herman

            Brock63
              Post count: 15

              sound like Zwickey Eskimo

              Brock63
                Post count: 15

                I have used that same avatar on nearly everything since early 90s when the Leatherwall first started up…never saw anyone else using it and just became ME…lol

                Brock63
                  Post count: 15

                  It depends…this year I am using a 15 year old Jeffery Royal Hunter recurve…red oak limbs backed with clear glass.

                  Sometimes I hunt with one of my other recurves (Robertson, Habu, etc)…

                  Then other times it is either an osage selfbow with static recurve tips or a vine maple selfbow with slight deflex in center and reflex on limb ends.

                  For arrows it is doug fir or sitka spruce with usually Ribtek heads but will also use trade points.

                  it is all good…

                  Brock63
                    Post count: 15

                    thanks…will check it out.

                    Brock63
                      Post count: 15

                      thanks in advance for any other info I can absorb…sounds like I need to go back and re-read some of the Ashby files to make sure I am remembering them correctly. I hope some of you more informed in his tests and reports can help me a bit…

                      thanks again.

                      Brock63
                        Post count: 15

                        sharpster wrote:
                        There’s really no need for any large scale study to prove whether it’s true rotation caused by a single bevel blade design or just deflection. You can prove it yourself in less than a minute… Just go to your kitchen, get out a single bevel knife (serrated or not) and attempt to cut a straight, uniform slice off a potatoe, cucumber or other med-hard vegetable…It’s almost impossible to do because the single bevel design will “steer” the blade in a uniform curve unless we add counter pressure and even then it’s difficult to cut a straight line. In the case of a BHD, the rotation is even greater because there are two bevels applying the rotational force. Try it and let us know your thoughts.

                        Ron

                        Thanks for the replies everyone.

                        Sharpster…I understand your reasoning with a kitchen kife but it is held horizontal to cutting direction and attempting to go straight down rather than puncturing as a broadhead would. Your explanation is for slicing across blade. The broadhead is slicing ALONG the blade so the angles you are referring would not be as influential in my opinion. To me it is like comparing the effects of lift on an airplane wings trailing edge compared to that of its leading edge if I am making any sense.

                        Can you get the knife to turn in your hand the same way if you push it through a watermelon rather than trying to slice a piece off the end? I wonder how much the pivot point of the instrument depends…broadhead is center balanced but knife is usually in line with top tang except in daggers.

                        I never have had a knife whether hunting, kitchen or bayonet react in that way when penetrating rather than slicing. I am not trying to be contentious but would like to see how you determine something is truly rotating by its design when penetrating rather than reacting to different densities through its forward penetrating travel.

                        We know the arrow rotates if it has helical fletching..could it be that heavy FOC arrows just “continue” that rotation more efficiently with the 200+grain heads at those ranges? Just asking…

                        Dave…thanks for your response too. I am just an inquisitive guy…and no I am not from Missouri (Show Me State) LOL. I understand he shoots and test quite a lot…have followed him for years. I was a bit surprised though at his single bevel comments of them being that influential in arrow penetration. I see rotation as a loss of energy just as much as I see multiple blades and blunt tips.

                        If someone can help me find it…I would like to see the Ashby report on the same exact broadhead with both double and single bevels to read again…thanks in advance. Other than shot placement this might refresh my mind and answer some additional questions I have boiling in my brain. LOL

                        How much rotation are we talking during a say, 20 inch wound channel?

                        Brock63
                          Post count: 15

                          is there any video or photographs to prove this rotation caused by single bevel. I read the articles Dr Ashby had in either TBM or PBS….but was it TRUE rotation or just deflection from way it hit the bone?

                          Shot Zwickeys, Snuffers and Ribteks…and will try the Grizzly once I run out of ribbies (just bought 36 more lol)…..

                          I personally have never seen a difference in arrow flight no matter if right or left handed in using right or left fletching…other than as stated..on a selfbow it keeps the fletching from cutting web of left hand sometimes.

                          I would like to see someone do a test with maybe equal weight or near equal weight Grizzly/STOS/Ribtek vs the Ashby Head…same shafting, fletching, bow, etc…..maybe 10 shots each against the same setup. We are not machines so placement wont be perfect but might be easier to put 60 leg bones in ballistics gel and set up a Shooting Machine for consistent draw, weight, flight, etc. maybe one of these larger broadhead or arrow companies will volunteer.

                          This should settle the discussion to ensure it is scientific rather than a snapshot in time of an event.

                          Great discussions and reading and makes us think no matter whether we swallow it all or not.

                          Brock63
                            Post count: 15
                            in reply to: Muck Boots? #7693

                            Muck boots that I have seen are rubber bottomed with a neoprene upper. They are very comfortable and light…great for walking BUT they are warm. The neoprene is an insulating layer (same as a wet suit) and can be very warm.

                            For walking…I would say LL Bean style pac boot with leather upper and rubber lower…..or the Lacrosse ankle fit uninsulated 18″ boots…..two of the best if you need comfort, protection and quality.

                            Brock63
                              Post count: 15

                              Hey….try a couple areas. One is with the Keowee Bowmen
                              http://www.keoweebowmen.com/

                              They used to have a good number of traditional archers in their group I would see at state 3D shoots.

                              Then you can join and check with Bowhunters of SC
                              http://www.scbowhunters.org/

                              Also, check with the clubs in SCAA….
                              http://www.sc-archery.com/clubs.htm

                              Finally there is a Traditional Club in North Carolina called Carolina Traditional Archers
                              http://thecta.org/

                              I would start with Bowhunters of SC as we have a Traditional shoot each year…and check out some of the clubs in your area I mentioned and listed.

                              Maybe it is time again for Traditional Club in SC….I was going to start one years ago but life got in way and CTA was there and trying to get our state members involved with them. They are primarily NC club at this time….but there are options.

                              Or you can freelance it….Join Bowhunters of SC…PBS…and just travel to the regional shoots. I am going to Eastern Traditional Archery Rendevous in Denton Hill PA next year again…used to go all the time. One of best shoots I have ever attended.

                              Good luck…

                              Brock63
                                Post count: 15

                                I started with Zwickey Eskimos but a few that came apart at ferrule put me on the Ribteks…been shooting Ribteks 160gr since mid-90s….contemplating buying some more from Australia to hold on to maybe 50 of them. When I want a 3 blade I return to the Rothaar Snuffer also a 160gr.

                                If I had to pick a replacement for either it would be the Grizzly 160 for the Ribtek….and dont think I would replace the Snuffer…just too damn good of a head in my opinion.

                                Brock63
                                  Post count: 15
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