[richard roop]

in reply to: Ashby Bowhunting Foundation Website #141820

There is a guide on You Tube who goes by the moniker ‘The Ranch Fairy’ (as in ‘Let me wave my magic wand and make the weather good, you able to shoot straight and your hunt a success) that has several very good videos that seem to independently  reach the same conclusions as Dr. Ed.

Good stuff to watch.

[richard roop]

in reply to: Welcome #141804

Just got Dr. Ed’s book thru eBay. Have not had time to read it yet but from thumbing thru it, it looks like it was well worth the coin.

[richard roop]

in reply to: Beginner in need of "next step" Hunting Bow #141529

1st thought that comes to mind; Jumping from 35# to 40# is about right.  Build strength while maintaining form !!!

2nd thought that comes to mind; 40# while fine for whitetails might be a bit light for moose.  Possibly quite a bit light for moose from a tree stand where an exit wound is a huge help in tracking.  Plan on picking your shots carefully.

3rd thought that comes to mind;  You’re a tall guy with a bit of a long draw. Bows in the 64″ range are going to be more of a joy to shoot for you than my 60″ bows that I only draw to 27″. You’re on the right track.

Suggestion; I’m a fan of the older classic bows that still have a lot of use left in them. Spend some time on eBay seeing what’s available. (Hint; There’s a LOT !!) One of them will call out to you.  That’s the one to take a serious look at.  And ……. don’t disdain a model just because it’s a ‘target’ bow.  If you like it and it’s the weight you’re looking for, even if the decal says Tamerlane or Lord Mercury, Spitfire or even Robert’s Fireball it could be the one for you.

[richard roop]

in reply to: New Eyes #141449

I normally carry my binos with a lanyard long enough that they’re carried on my right side between the armpit and the belt. Out of the way enough that I often wear them that way while shooting tournaments.

[richard roop]

in reply to: New Eyes #141164

Yes, for decades 7×35 was the standard. Then people were sold the ‘more power is more better’ concept……….. and yet, I’ve had times when I stood next to somebody trying to hand-hold a good pair of 14 by somethings and not be able to see what I could with my steadier 6.5 .

The lower power seems to gather light a bit better, early & late, also.

[richard roop]

in reply to: New Eyes #141118

FWIW;

I have the Vortex 6.5 x 32. Love ’em !!! Can be used wearing glasses with no problem and being a lower power there is very little shake when hand-held.  When I mount them on my tri-pod they work pretty well considering the lower power.  Weight is not bad. Price was such that if they’re dropped or stolen it’s not the end of the world.

[richard roop]

in reply to: Fletch-tite ??? #140892

Isn’t ‘Fletch Fuse’ cynoacriliate ester (sp) aka Crazy Glue ????

[richard roop]

in reply to: Fletch-tite ??? #140862

Here in Arizona we tend to think that 35% is really high humidity but I have noticed that the fletch seems to be more of a problem when it’s humid (for here).

I’m going to order some different glue and the tape to try. I have a half doz. cobalt blue 2213s on the way that are going to look awesome in my quiver next to the golds I normally shoot.  Going to get this nonsense figured out ……………

[richard roop]

in reply to: Fletch-tite ??? #140847

Glue remains on the feather.

Pretty sure that the glue isn’t skinning over. It was pretty hot when I made up the last batch but it was apply the glue to the feather and set the clamp in the jig.  15 minutes on the timer & do the next set. Effort is made to ensure that the shafts are not touched after the m.e.k. prep.  I thought that possibly the m.e.k. in a metal can had drawn a bit of moisture and was contaminated so I replaced it with new. Same problem. Also have used a couple of different brands of rattle can for the end cap. Hasn’t helped.

I was making arrows before I made arrows for Robin Hood and this is really becoming annoying.

[richard roop]

in reply to: Fletch-tite ??? #140827

Ok ……………… Talk to me about tape. I’ve seen ads but never considered using it ’cause I do a lot of spliced fletching.

These feathers popping loose is really becoming annoying.  The one this morning was off of a shaft that had been prepped with m.e.k. and glued to bare metal.

[richard roop]

in reply to: Grain scale ??? #140728

Got the Superior Balance Arrow 2000 unit & am very pleased with it.  Made in U.S.A. no less !!!!  ………….. and it’s very simple to use. Simple is good, therefore very simple is very good.

[richard roop]

in reply to: Grain scale ??? #140666

True, for hunting ranges I may be going overboard but firmly believing that as long as it can be done safely, no practice shot is too far, anything might help………………… And knowing that the arrows match helps build confidence.

[richard roop]

in reply to: Just joined and wanted to say hello #140658

Greetings from Southeastern Arizona.

[richard roop]

in reply to: Grain scale ??? #140647

Ah, 2117s .  Used to shoot them back in my compound days.  Really good shaft size for a lot of things.

So, if you have an arrow at a 530 grain standard, what would be the accepted weight range ???  I’m thinking somewhere about 527.5 to 532.5 ?? That would be a total of 5 grains variable.  The wheel-bow dot shooters I know would likely cringe at that but it seems sorta reasonable for crown dipped, crested & feather fletched pointed sticks.

[richard roop]

in reply to: Grain scale ??? #140633

Ok, got the one from Three Rivers ordered.  Sometimes I think that I should just direct deposit my paycheck with them. …… and eBay.

So …………… What is a reasonable + or – weight range for finished traditional arrows ?? I’m shooting 2213s back to 75 yards for practice shots. Much less when hunting.

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