Paper tuning 2009-07-05T15:30:05+00:00

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  • Daniel
    Post count: 248

    I was trying to paper tune my longbow the other day and shooting at 6 feet from my paper stand, I was getting a mix of right diagonal(up 2 inches) and tears that were just a little high from the entry hole, 3/4 of an inch high..

    What causes the right hand diagonal tears? I’m perplexed !!

    54# Non Typical Brack / 30″ arrows and 200 grain tips.

  • Steve Sr.
    Post count: 344

    I am TOTALLY without expertise here, my friend but, in an effort to help I did a quick search on it due to something I thought I remembered reading.

    http://www.archerybuff.com/howtopapertune.php

    What I found, was shooting from 3-5 YARDS so perhaps backing up a bit would give different results?

    The “high tear” part about has to be nocking point, though, IMHO.

    Back her up and give us more. Im sure there are more here more in tune themselves with the process.

    Just my 2 cents.
    God Bless

  • Daniel
    Post count: 248

    Thanks Steve, I’ll be heading out in a few minutes to give it a try and I’ll post my results 🙂 Thanks

  • Daniel
    Post count: 248

    Just got in Steve and I backed up at 4 yards ready to shoot. I did lower my nock a bit and after watching my form, I punched a nice hole through the paper. I repeated this same shot twice and got two very nice holes.

    I am now very happy with my set up, however now I am wondering why we need to stand 6 feet behind the paper to paper tune, but I must assume that is with a compound bow.

    What is important is that my arrow is now flying well, thank you for your help 🙂

  • Steve Sr.
    Post count: 344

    No problem. Im just glad it WAS help instead of adding to confusion like I normally do.

    It’s great that your combo is shooting well!

    God Bless
    Steve

  • Donnie
    Post count: 19

    Standingbear,

    The reason you need to start close (3 yrds) and then move back when paper tuning is because if your arrow is kicking one way or another… the arrow itself may punch a “perfect” hole in the paper at the exact moment that the arrow is trying to correct itself. Take a step or two back and you will see if this is the case.

    Start at about 3 yards… and see what you arrow is doing right out of the bow. When paper tuning… you will want to take care of your “Up & Down” paper rips first. If while standing at 3 yards… you get a high tear… (I can tell you about “Left & Right” tears later,) then your nock is most likely too high.

    On occasion if you start out with your nock too low… then upon release… the arrow will glance off of your shelf (Known as contact problems,) and kick “UP” giving the false impression that your nock is to high. So… its best to start off with your nock “intentionally” too high… and then work your way down the string, watching your “High Tear” slowly decrease until you are only left with either a “Left or Right tear”.

    **(Because you are shooting with fingers… shoot several arrows through the paper before making any adjustments.)

    Once you have your nock high issue taken care of at 3 yards… back up a few steps and try it again.

    Let me know!

    Take care!

    Donnie

  • IronCreekArcher
    Post count: 79

    I have been paper tuning my bows with a bare shaft for the last 10 years and have found the following (Right Handed Shooter):

    Nock High: Lower nocking point
    Nock Low: Raise nocking point
    Left Tear: Weak spined arrow
    Right Tear: Too Heavy of a spined arrow

    Diagonal tears are a combination of the two. I would suggest correcting the nock point first then start cutting down arrow length (making the spine stiffer) if showing a left tear or adding weight to the front of the arrow (making the spine weaker) if showing a right tear. I always start with two full length shafts of the given spine classes I think I am going to end up at, putting the head weight combo on that I want to use and shoot the paper from about 5 yards. I then make the neccisary adjustments to achieve a “bullet hole” or within a small margin of reason. I hope this helps…if not Black Widow has a tuning DVD that will help and the DVD “Masters of the Barebow” Vol II helps a lot as well. Good luck and if you need anything else don’t hesitate to ask.

  • Daniel
    Post count: 248

    Guys, I’m really overwhelmed with the wealth of information on this site, it almost seems too gentlemen like, however with that being said, here is a story that kind of fits with the folks of this forum.

    I was at a wedding a number of years ago, a good friend of mine had his oldest daughter getting married. Since he was a traditional bowhunter and had been for many years, there was a number of us at the wedding diner and reception.

    Well, as the bride and groom were entering the diner hall, I seen my good friend point to the table and its only then I noticed that they had forgotten to put the wine out onn the tables. As I looked around, all of the traditional bowhunter got up at the same time, and in no time at all, all of the wine was on the table and my friend just smiled and shook his head. During his speech, he basically said the same thing 🙂

    Its only during the later part of the dance, we all got together and laughed, all thinking about how we all think alike.

    A great bunch of honourable men, never to busy to help each other out, selflessness being the biggest quality. Now that is how I see the good folks on this site and that’s all I have to say !!!

    🙂

  • Ed Ashby
    Member
    Post count: 816

    Paper tuning has never given me results anywhere near as good as I achieve with bare shaft tuning. The best bear shaft tuning information I know of is on O.L. Adcock’s website. Go to: http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm and click on the bow tuning section.

    Ed

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