kellenloganDecember 9, 2012 at 8:39 pmPost count: 5
Hey guys. Been really enjoying the website. I’ve recently abandoned compounds bows and bought myself a nice used Martin Stick. It came with about a dozen aluminum arrows. I went and bought a dozen 3 rivers cedar arrows a few days later and chose a spine based on the selection chart on their website. I cut them and added field points in the correct manner as well and so I’m pretty sure now I have a dozen arrows that are pretty closely tuned for my bow.
The aluminum arrows that came with the bow on the other hand were not done correctly. None of the nocks are aligned correctly but the arrows are all cut to the same length.
Here’s my question, while I’m learning instinctive shooting, will it be detrimental to my learning to use the aluminum arrows since they were not properly tuned? Should I just toss them?
Thanks for your help.
stykboDecember 9, 2012 at 8:58 pmPost count: 20
Wow… there is so much to say. Off hand, I would say “toss them” …maybe not literally, though. A properly spined, weight-matched, straight, correctly fletched, etc. arrow is crucial, IMHO. In other words…PROPERLY MATCHED.
Having said that, if you can “correct” the problems with the aluminum arrows, you could use them if you just wanted to fling arrows. I personally find it hard to “throw away” arrows.
You don’t mention “spine” of aluminums, or draw weight of bow, or your draw length. For serious, disciplined practice I would use all the very same arrows only. Eventually, after learning how, you’ll want to make your own.
Arne MoeMemberDecember 9, 2012 at 9:48 pmPost count: 147
What are the aluminum arrows?? Spine, number, length? What is your bow’s weight & your draw length?
I wouldn’t toss the aluminums yet. Even pretty miss matched arrows can be shot and you can get good groups with them. The groups MIGHT be off the bull’s eye but they will group IF you do your part. That is the time you can start to really tune. Trad shooting and tuning is just the opposite of C bow shooting and tuning.
With trad, just get arrows that are close to what you need and shoot until you are grouping (nearly ANY arrow will do for this). THEN you will start to know when to tune for real. In the beginning, you cannot know if the arrow flight and impact point is because of tune OR form consistency. GET YOUR FORM FIRST!!!!
If you are chasing “tune” without knowing if it is you or the equipment, you will just drive yourself crazy and have nothing to show for it.
StumpkillerMemberDecember 10, 2012 at 2:02 amPost count: 193
What’s up with the nocks? Depending on how they are glued in/on (I’m not familiar with aluminum) you may be able to dip the nock in hot water and twist them to where they need to be. Coffee temp water out of the microwave will do.
kellenloganDecember 10, 2012 at 2:52 amPost count: 5
Thanks for the quick replies. Guess I left out some info.
My draw length is 27.5″ and my bow is pulling at 51.8 lbs at that length.
The aluminum arrows are Easton Legacy 2117 Longbow 60-64#
The arrows are 29″ long from the deepest part of the nock to the end of the arrow (minus the field point) and they have 100 grain field points.
I’m not sure what glue the nocks are put on with but the nock end of the arrow is tapered and the nock is pushed on. I’ll try the hot water method. Hopefully it’s not some super human epoxy.
Based on that info, seems they are way too stiff for my bow. The 3 Rivers chart says that I should probably be shooting a 1916 or 2013.
Arne MoeMemberDecember 10, 2012 at 3:09 amPost count: 147
Ya, I’d say 2117 is pretty stiff for your set up, BUT you can still shoot them. They will probably slap the riser, and fly a little weird but they will still group when you shoot consistently. Not sure what your nock problem is but worst case, you can take a strong knife and cut them off and then glue new ones on. The taper (swagged) end where the nock goes is pretty strong so cutting off the nocks will not hurt the shafts. Just kind of “carve” them off.
lyagooshkaDecember 10, 2012 at 4:17 pmPost count: 600
You mention your field points are 100 gr. Have you thought of going up a bit? That will bring you closer to what your bow/spine should be. As a bonus, you get some FOC action too 😀 . I shoot a similar weight bow but an inch more in draw. I shoot a 125 gr. tip and the chart has me at a 2016. I went to the gamegetters, and I use the 500 spine (not sure why they changed aluminum to match carbon spine, but oh well). Besides that, definitely try what Arne said. If the hot water or knive doesn’t work, if you have a hear gun, that did it for me. Good luck. Be well.
lyagooshkaDecember 10, 2012 at 5:19 pmPost count: 600
Nothing against Cabela’s, but may I suggest you try 3RiversArchery.com or TradTechArchery.com or even KustomKingArchery.com. Again, nothing against Cabela’s. I go there every now and again. But the places I listed (and there are many more that are just as good) tend to cater more to the trad folks. They have a bigger selection and prices are on par, if not better. Shipping takes a few days, and is usually pretty quick. Shipping cost is ofset by the price of gas (I live 30 miles from my Cabela’s, so 60 mile round trip at 20 mpg at $3.30 per gallow, well, you do the math). Again, I can’t stress enough that I have nothing against Cabels’a, nor do I work for any of the places I mentioned. Just want to see you get the biggest selection to choose from so that you can make a good choice, and Cabela’s is pretty limited for trad stuff, especially hard-to-find stuff. Hope this helps. Be well.
kellenloganDecember 10, 2012 at 5:22 pmPost count: 5
Thanks for the advice Alex. I’m the same way. I prefer to support those folks as well and generally avoid Cabelas. But they are right down the street from me and they have the conventional nocks that I need. But for all my other trad needs, I go elsewhere.
kellenloganDecember 13, 2012 at 6:15 pmPost count: 5
I appreciate everyone’s help. I put the new nocks on my arrows and threw some 125gr field points on there. Went out and back and did a bunch of shooting yesterday. Only my 3rd time shooting traditional instinctive so I’m starting out at about 15 yards or so and just trying to focus on consistent form. After 60+ shots yesterday I’m already seeing improvement in my groups.
I’m moving to a new house in a couple weeks and my back yard will allow me to shoot up to 40 yards so I can’t wait to start burning shots into my brain at every distance in between.
I’m an amateur leatherworker and most of my work is on motorcycles I build but have done a lot of other random work as well. I have a quiver and arm guard design in my head I want to try out so I’ll share those with you guys when I finish them.
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