Home Forums Bows and Equipment bow quiver

Viewing 19 reply threads
  • Author
    • tracker26
      Post count: 18

      i hav a fred bear recurve and i bought the bow quiver from bear that is made to fit on that bow and after attaching it and putting 3-4 arrows in it i shot 7-8 times and it broke a few inches down from head where the broadheads stick in the foam. so i took it back to cabelas and they gave me a new one and then that one broke IN THE SAME PLACE. anyone else have this problem? i could use some suggestions on other quiver manufactures if anyone has any particular one that they like.

    • Snakeeater
      Post count: 23

      Can you post a picture, or link to an image on the Internet, of the quiver. If it is the Delta style quiver that sounds pretty strange. Maybe you put it on incorrectly.

    • tracker26
      Post count: 18

      Snakeeater wrote: Can you post a picture, or link to an image on the Internet, of the quiver. If it is the Delta style quiver that sounds pretty strange. Maybe you put it on incorrectly.

      heres the quiver that i had. i mounted it just like it shows in the pic. its made of aluminium….maybe thats the problem.

    • jer11bravo
      Post count: 14

      have you looked at the GFA quiver. I bought one a couple of years ago and I would not go into the woods without it. very durable, reliable and easy to use.

    • David Petersen
      Post count: 2749

      Tracker — I would forget the screw-on bow quivers and go with a good strap-on, which will never break on you and is quiet and fast to take on and off. Great Northern and Thunderhorn are two among several excellent brands available. Dave

    • Chris Shelton
      Post count: 679

      I have a selaway quiver and it is awesome!!!

    • PagosaBow
      Post count: 61

      I love my Selaway.

    • oldcentaur
      Post count: 11

      +3 on Selway. A great, quiet quiver.

    • lssa
      Post count: 38

      i also hunt with a selway quiver very pleased with it

    • tracker26
      Post count: 18

      hey thanks guys! i’ll check in to those quivers!

    • NavySkyPilot
      Post count: 29

      On quivers, How many arrows need one carry on a morning or evening hunt? Surely more than 2, but need one carry 6?

    • William WarrenWilliam Warren
      Post count: 1384

      Love my Kwikee quivers. I’m trying out an inexpensive strap on from 3 Rivers. Don’t recall the brand. Holds 4 arrows. I’ll have one xtra arrow in a broad head scabbard at the ready.

      I’ve been known to miss so I need extras!

    • Carbomask
      Post count: 39



      Please comment about it. use your own quiver, clip on to your belt, adjust angle, no bouncing, no strap to leg.. I can tell this is definetly what I want.

      But for now, i have a JerriedUP old back quiver, like a cat quiver thing.. works fine. bottom loading.. also allows me to put the bow up on it, and ride my mt bike to the hunt spot, dump the bike and im hunting.

    • Jason Wesbrock
      Post count: 762

      I bought one of those Sidewinders several years ago, before they went off the market then came back again. Personally, I didn’t like it. The hard plastic was somewhat uncomfortable, and I’ve never cared for hip quivers while bowhunting.

      It does work well for extra arrows when I’m wading the local river for carp, so I do use it for bowfishing from time to time.

    • Hiram
      Post count: 484

      To quote “two things that do not belong on a bow, sights and quivers” I tend to believe both. I use the GFA type qiuver. I used it before it was availiable. I bought a Delta quiver and bolted on rifle sling swivels and a strap. You can move it around and manuever in the brush.

    • David Petersen
      Post count: 2749

      I shoot very light bows, Shrews that weigh less than a pound naked. But even with heavier longbows I find that a bow quiver adds stability and accuracy. If you’re shooting a heavy-riser recurve, that’s probably not necessary. To each his own in quivers, but I carry a 30-pound pack with fanny pack when hunting so can’t use a back quiver (which wouldn’t work anyhow for snaking through thick saplings and ducking under low limbs) and can’t imagine havine one on my side, under my arm, etc. Maybe if I did all my hunting on open tundra or prairie, but not for the mountains and forests. Again, to each his own. dave

    • Hiram
      Post count: 484

      Hey Dave I get by with the GFA type because I use Vanes instead of feathers. I shoot an elevated rest (springy) and also carry a good sized pack. I have a one arrow quiver on my Bow, the BW type for quick access. The GFA just hangs over the right side of my pack. I do however cross it completely over the off shoulder, unlike a rifle sling on one shoulder. If I had to keep feathers dry which I did for years, I would create a hooded quiver similar to my GFA, but each to his own. Blessings

    • Patrick
      Post count: 1148

      When I switched to traditional, I didn’t want a bow-mounted quiver. I initially used only a Cat Quiver, but didn’t like how inaccessible my arrows were as I walked. I then added a super-lightweight ABS single broadhead quiver. The quiver was fine, but, as time went by, I found the Cat Quiver was constantly catching as I walked through corn and/or the woods, and 1 arrow wasn’t enough. So, I bought the Eagles’ Flight Jumbo Apache quiver, and I really like it so far. Four arrows is perfect…3 broadheads, 1 field-tip. Plus I can carry my daypack again.

    • Treetopflier
      Post count: 146

      Hiram – Might should start another thread for this switch in topic — but I’d like to hear from you and others about experiences shooting with vanes. I mean, once you cave in to the advantages of carbon, going with vanes is an easy next step. I’ve bought carbons that come with vanes, and before stripping them off to replace with feathers I’ve test shot off the shelf and they shoot fine! So in my very limited experience, perhaps a lot of well-tuned traditional shelf-shooters could be shooting vanes. Disadvantage is obvious — it’s plastic. Advantages, aside from being waterproof, might surprisingly take us back to Ashby’s studies which show (and I’ve proven to my own satisfaction) that the more FOC we got, the less we need in the way of fletching for good accuracy. But then, we can do the same with smaller feathers! I personally am totally convinced on everything Ashby’s studies recommend, but even so my goal now is to find ways to transfer all the advantages of carbon shafts somehow to wood shafts, which for all their “natural shortcomings” seems just more fun to shoot! For me anyhow. 😕 But still I want to keep an open (?) mind (?) and learn from others what works and don’t for folks. Thanks and sorry for the big left turn. Snuffster

    • Stephen Graf
      Post count: 2361

      When I was using a compound, I switched to feathers. In general I believe they do a better job than plastic fletching. But the thing that made me switch was that feathers lay down when going through a hole. I had 2 large mule deer shot through the chest where the plastic fletch hung up inside and didn’t give me a good exit wound… thus hard tracking till the arrow pulled out.

      If you shoot off a rest, you can get fine arrow flight with plastic vanes. But I think you will have a hard time if you shoot off the shelf.

Viewing 19 reply threads
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.