I think the only thing left to do besides forging your own, is to do what I do: roll a 1/2 to 1″ wide length of duct tape around the base of the blunt. I cut pieces until I find the length that weighs what I need. Not pretty, but…. You can use black or camo tape instead of grey, for embellishment!!!:D

Soon, yes! I’ve been touring my a** off these last 2 months! Just came back today. No concerts until September 6 and 7th. Taking 4 days off next week. Serious practice intended.

Dave, another option you could try is fitting a rubber blunt over a glue on blunt for a combined 300 grains. I have been using some of the bunny buster rubber blunts from 3rivers. The 11/32’s weigh in at around 115-120 grains. They have quite a bit of uneccessary ‘sleeve’ that fits over the shaft that you can cut off with scissors to reduce their weight. They shoot as straight as I do and I haven’t broken one yet (I have broken a few shafts they’re attached to though 😆 )

I doubt they’d work with the 225gn hex head, but if you could source some regular steel blunts in the 180-200gn range with the rubber blunts over top you’d be set.

The Oct/Nov issue has an article in Traditional Wisdom by Sterling Holbrook about adding weight to rubber blunts. Here is a brief excerpt:

I take an empty cartridge casing of any .38 calibers, such as 9mm., .380, .357 mag. or .38 special and glue this over my untapered shaft with hot melt. Once cool, I slide on the blunt. Rubber and plastic blunt weights vary considerably. By weight checking my 11/32” blunts with various cartridge cases, I can find a close match to my broadhead weight of 200 grains.

I believe he was also grinding down the rim of the cartridge. I’m not sure if this will work to get you to 300 grains, but it’s worth a shot. (Yes, the pun was intended!) The new issue will be online for Premium Members on Thursday morning. 😀

I do what Ausjim suggested only I use 145 gr steel blunts. Works on woodies and carbons. I expect if you used the 200 gr steel blunt plus a 11/32 rubber blunt it would be around 300 gr. If it is little light you could try adding some weight by dropping a few shot in the blunt before sliding it on. The fishing tackle stores offer something called “suspend dots” for adding weight to fishing lures. Basically a stick on lead dot that would go perfectly on the end of the steel blunt. I have actually not tried it, just thinking on the fly, or outside the tacklebox, or….

It doesn’t come in a 300 grn glue on that I know of but here’s one that goes to 250.

http://www.rayzor-vpa.com/main.sc

The hammer from 3 rivers is 2 bucks cheaper.

I don’t know the end weight, but my uncle and I have done the .357/.38 brass over field tips, before. I think we used epoxy to bind them together? I don’t know. He had a bunch made up, and I shot them. LOL! If you lost the brass, or even the arrow, you weren’t out a lot of money for the blunt. And usually, by the time we put these blunts together, the arrows they were on had been restraightened multiple times. Of course, I am talking about aluminum arrows. I believe since he has gone to carbons, he has started doing the same thing, at least to some degree. Good luck!!

Dave

Do they need to be tapered inside? If there was a way of getting a hold of a tapered drill bit (I think that’s a 7 deg taper, correct?) I could turn out a few for ya on my lathe. I made my own screw in 300gr field points, so these ought to be easier, since I don’t need to make the threaded section or the point.

Then again, I might be able to adapt something to a field point. What dia shafts are you using?

Hey, now you have my mind going (slow to start, slow to stop, what can I say) but I was thinking long and narrow with a flat end, sort of like a field point, but are you thinking wider front, like 1/2″ or 5/8″ dia. That might be easier, but really the easiest would be over a blunt shaft instead of tapered, at least for me.

Also wondering about a head that you glued OVER a glue on field point. Now that might work. I will set one up tonight and use like JB Weld to glue the two points together with. Or would it be better to hot melt them separately? With a blunt at 300gr using a 5/8″ start, it would not be very long, but would pack a whallop. Kinda like using a 45-70 to hunt squirrels. 😀

How about this, would that work. It’s not 300gr, it’s actually 306.8 if I remember correctly. 😆

That’s a 125gr glue on field point standing next to it for comparison. There is one just like it pressed into the steel shank. If you look real close at the hole in the center of the blunt, the bottom inside edge, you see a slight dimple. That is actually the tip of the pressed in field point. No glue to work loose, and no worries about it loosening when you glue it to the shaft.

You can easily see how much of the point is pressed into the blunt. If ya want to give me a few days I can make up some trial ones for ya. This was from a bolt I cut down, but blank steel will work better. I used what I had on hand.

The 225gr Hex heads are sure prettier though.

That looks like a serious head handi! I also came up with a 300 grain blunt, that’s perhaps a little less elegant 😉

I couldn’t find anyone who sold 180-200grain glue on blunts, which is what would be required for the rubber blunt solution I had above. So I took a hack saw to a 190grain brass field point I had:

I nipped the tip off with the saw then filed briefly for a weight match. Added a 125 grain steel insert and 120 grain rubber blunt to complete the set.. all these heads weigh the same:

I’m not certain on pricing but it would be somewhere between 3-5 bucks and 5-10 minutes for the 300grain rubber blunt (which is 100% untested for structural integrity…).

EDIT: I thought untested was pretty useless so went and fired a dozen shots into my backyard target (~9 yards) and a few shots drilling into the dirt within 5 yards. That rubber blunt is doing fine.

David Petersen wrote: Thanks, fellers, and especially Handirifle … but please don’t go to the trouble. I’m OK to keep needling about the market need for them, and wait for Joe at Tuffhead to come out with them. 😛 It’s a necessary next step if he wishes to see the popularity of his 300s continue to grow. (How’s that for a hint, Joe?)

Oh I get it David, you’re one of those pretty face guys, thats ok, I get it. 😆 😆

handirifle, that’s a find idea pressing a field tip into a drilled out blank. I’m gonna have to make some of those up.

ch

Clay

start with a 3/4″ long piece of 1/2″ dia rod. I forget what drill bit, and am not home to look.