jpcarlson wrote: Ok Guys,
This tuning thing isn’t easy I got my shafts, insert, adaptor, and tips all put together and started shooting one shaft. I’m shooting an Easton Axix Nano 340. About 9.3 grs/inch shaft. I have a 300gr brass field point, 125gr steel insert, and 75gr brass hidden insert adaptor up front. total, 500grs.
I started at full length,32″,and was hitting right of a center line. I made a 1/2″ cut, shot again, same thing. another 1/2″ cut, same thing. made a 1/4″ cut, still right but starting to come over. I would say I’m about 1-1/2″ right on average but still getting left tail kick on the impact. I can even see the shaft kick left in flight sometimes.
I know I need to slow down the cutting and start being careful to not make the shaft too stiff. So, now the questions!
Where should my nock point be? Should my arrow be level on the shelf/perpendicular with the string? I notice some tail kick up once in awhile, maybe due to the nock sliping? Also, I am still getting tail kick left/ right impact of a center line. does that indicate weak spine still?
the shaft is shooting pretty good at 10 yards, but I notice the impact problems as I move back. You guys make it sound easy so I keep reading over your tuning methods but come up with questions while doing it! I really want to get these shooting well and not ruin my shaft while learning. expensive little buggers, but really strong shafts with good straightness.
The thing that throws a wrench in it for me is my old bear take down recurve has an adjustable side plate on the riser to move the center shot in our out. I understand I will need a stiffer shaft the closer to center shot I am, and weaker the further away from center shot I am. where should I set the darn thing? I’m not sure how to use that variable in this equasion! Maybe i’m not understanding this right, but it seems I could stay at the length I have on my test shaft and just start playing with adjusting my side plate, moving in or out from center. I tried that a bit, but I still get that left tail kick. I think that means my shaft is still too weak.
Is there an affordable way to build a nice big target in the back yard for this? If I could find the closed cell foam, I could stack layers and build a frame to compress it in
When shooting, I’m not a very reliable shot out past 20-25 yrds. Can I still tune these shafts to shoot well out there and beyond by doing all of my tuning between 10-20 yrds?
Can anyone recommend a good bow mount quiver which will hold these small diameter shafts tightly? I like the Selway quivers, but I’m not sure if they will hold the small shafts.
I do notice the nice heavy FOC arrow makes my already quiet bow even better.
Anything will help so I am all ears!
Any advice will be greatly appreciated!
Scratching my head,
I saw a great back stop made from layers of old carpet compressed in a frame. The one caution,I was told, was to put some kind of a roof on it. Old carpet doesn’t like rain !
As for tuning, I know your going for EFOC but have you considered reducing the point weight just slightly ? It should have a similar effect to cutting the shaft.
Reply To: Tuning strugglesarcher382016-12-25T07:00:53-07:00