I just cut down what ever I have to make a traditional or Pope and Young shape. See below image form trueflight website.

skinner biscuit wrote: Is there any place where you can buy 2 1/2 ” feathers. Tried cutting my own but leave much to be desired.anyone use 3″ parrabolics?

I’m using 3″ parabolic x 4 and they work great. I get at least as good a flight as I did with longer x3s. dwc

TRUE FLIGHT MAKES A 2″ feather

http://www.trueflightfeathers.com/news12.htm

Skinner– I use 4×3″ and love them. I bought a Little Chopper from 3Rivers, which are available in various feather patterns, for about $25, and chop my own from full feathers. If you do much fletching you’ll pay for the chopper right away. Plus, every little thing you can do for yourself is a satisfaction in itself.

Gateway Feathers offers 2-1/4″ shield cuts, and 2-1/2″ parabolics:

http://gatewayfeathers.shptron.com/k/search?q=2-1%2F4%22

http://gatewayfeathers.shptron.com/k/search?q=2-1%2F2%22

and Lancaster Archery offers a variety of options, from 2″ up:

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/arrows/arrow-components/arrow-feathers.html?

I’m currently shooting 4 x 2-1/4″ shield cut, straight fletched, and they fly great. And very quiet.

I just flectched an arrow with AA style cut from 3 inch parabolics to just a tad over 2.25 x 4. I’ll see how it flies in the morning, but I expect it to be just fine. dwc

I shot the arrow with the 3″ers trimmed to 2.25 in the AA style and it flies just fine. Feathers are very stiff when trimmed low like that, too. dwc

Curious if other folks are straight fetching when they change to smaller feathers?

Since I switched to 4 x 2.5″ I’ve been straight fletching, – no offset, no helical, and they fly just fine, making me question the need for either at all (except to mask tuning shortcomings…) I believe feathers already have a small amount of helical by natural design, no?

Bruce– I’m shooting 4×3″ with the same offset I used with 5″ feathers, as it’s built in to my Bohning fletching jig. While I left helical behind eons ago, I do like offset because spin is good. It’s not among the “if I can do without it, that’s good” issues of life, IMO. I’m just curious why you prefer straight other than “they fly just fine”? 😯

I’ve been successfully shooting some 3fletch- 3″x1/2″ A&A designs.

Fella made a chopper for St. Judes several years back as a donation, which I got, and it now resides with Matt Gunduck (Magnus)on another site who specializes in natural turkey feathers. (mwg.trad@yahoo.com)

I let him keep the chopper. He chops them so much cleaner than do I…

I think he could get 2.5″ out of it…but wouldn’t be quite 1/2″ high, if I’m not mistaken.

FWIW.

David Petersen wrote: I’m just curious why you prefer straight other than “they fly just fine”? 😯

Dave – I don’t really have a preference one way or the other, I’ve just found it interesting that I haven’t really noticed any difference in how my arrows are flying, from when I used to put offset and helical into them. They still appear to spin in flight. So, I’m theorizing that the natural helical of the feather, (combined with a shorter and stiffer feather) is what is still creating that spin, even with a straight fletch. And they are also quite stable in flight as is – I’m guessing that 4-fletch is an advantage here as well (along with high EFOC).

I also seem to remember something Dr. Ed was talking about a while back with using straight fletch in conjunction with AA fletching, but it’s possible I’m not recalling that correctly.

Bruce,

I see I didn’t address that part of your question. Mia copa.

I gave away my left helical clamp years ago. I use left wing feathers in a straight clamp and use a slight offset.

They must still have rotation in flight, because when they hit my Ames pillow target filled with dead shrink wrap, the points unscrew!

As long as my FOC is up around 26% or above, I’ve not found arrows behaving badly with no helical, other than what comes from the feather itself, in a straight clamp, with a slight offset!

Why do we apply fletching? We use it to provide enough drag to help the arrow overcome paradox quickly and keep it flying point-first, and to provide a degree of arrow rotation, for more stable flight. With our boradheads we can add that the fletching must provide enough arrow stability to overcome the windsheer effect created by the particular broadhead used.

On arrows in the upper EFOC range, an above, I use the A$A fletching applied as a straight fletch: no helical, no offset. The arrow is already tuned for perfect flight with a field point. With field points we already have extremely fast paradox recovery; faster than normal FOC arrows having large fletches with lots of offset and helical. That means the shaft alone is providing all the drag needed for the arrow to overcome paradox quickly and to provide quality flight downrange. The only additional stability our hunting arrow will require is enough to overcome the windsheer effect of the broadhead. Non-vented, high MA broadheads also have a very low windsheer effect. The natural curvature of the feather induces arrow rotation in flight, so the arrow does still rotate. The straight fletch is more silent in flight. If the offset and helical are not needed to stabilize the arrow all one is accomplishing by using it is draining some arrow energy in flight – which, though a small amount, is still lost arrow force – and making the arrow nosier in flight.

If it isn’t necessary, and it reduces arrow efficiency, why use it? Necessary is the key though. One MUST test their finished arrows, with broadhead, in all wind conditions to be certain they have enough arrow drag and rotation to always stabilize the arrow with the particular broadhead being used. Any fletching induced drag or rotation above the minimum required is simply reducing the arrow’s efficiency.

Ed

As always, Ed…masterfully stated! And with 2 finger typing too! 😀

When I did Troy’s tuning routine on my bareshafts last summer, I had them flying bare perfect with a teeny bit week… put on the 3″x1/2 3-fletch and I was dead on…till I shot the Tusker BH. they showed slightly “weak” again.

I figured that the same head weight, on a longer BH than compact field point, increased the FOC enough to show weak. Cut just a skosh (1/16″-1/8″) off the rear and the BH’s flew perfect again.

Shooting lower draw weight (47#) out of a very efficient limb design with XX carbon, I STILL want to utilize all the energy I can get into the arrow and INTO the game.

You shoot those bows I couldn’t pull in my younger days, ya animal! :roll::D So I listen intently to all you’ve shared to improve arrow efficiency.

Update:

So I’ve been shooting 4 x 2-1/4″ fletching for the last year or so, and generally been pretty happy with the results.

But just out of curiosity, I got out an old 3 x 4″ fletch, cap-wrapped arrow that I had, and decided to compare FOC on both of them, all other things (point weight, etc) being equal:

FOC on the top arrow: 23.6%

FOC on the bottom arrow: 25.4%

I was a little surprised at how close they were, so I triple-checked my measurement, and yup – less than 2% difference. I suspect that removing the wrap on the top arrow would put them even closer.

So with a minimal difference in FOC, the question I really need to answer is – which one provides the most flight stability in a variety of conditions, with a broadhead?

The experiments continue in the quest for my ‘perfect’ arrow, but the process sure is fun. And at least it’s based on first-hand experience, rather than assumptions…:wink:

My first hand proved cap wraps with their what (11gr???) really skewed my FOC results…so I crown spray a cap now…much lighter.

One friend even went so far as to change out his NOCKS to lighter, smaller ones and got several % increase in FOC, where by adding 25 gr to the front weight, was negligible for him.

I don’t like those tiny nocks, but I’ve never caught my Bud in a windy story.

I would imagine each person’s set up, (center shot, draw, shelf configuration, release) all impact some of this stuff in flight, but for pure math, I was really surprised how a wee bit of weight in the tail dumps FOC… but fedders don’t weight that much, but wraps do!

BTW, I made some wraps out of cheap shelf paper and they weighed a lot less than commercial ones… but wear quicker!

Pretty amazing that simply switching nocks could lead to a several % increase!

I think I’m going to fletch up some 3 x 4″ today, without wraps, and then spend some time over the next few days shooting those against my 4 x 2-1/4″ fletch, with both field points and broadheads, and observe the results…

After fletching up some 3 x 4″ w/out wraps, here are all the weight/calcs (all with a 300 gr. head):

Bareshaft: 26.3% FOC

4 x 2-1/4″ fletch: 25.4% FOC

3 x 4″ w/out wraps: 24.7% FOC

3 x 4″ with wraps: 23.6% FOC

So the difference between option 2 & 3 is barely more than 1/2 of 1%. And as a side note, the 4″ feathers add 12gr. of weight to a bareshaft.

Frankly, I’m not too concerned about a a difference of a mere 1/2 of 1% so I think it really comes down to which is most stable in flight with a large broadhead. Which means it’s time to fling some arrows!

I am one of those firm believers in high foc. But I also have a hard time convincing myself that little feathers are the way to go. I have read everything there is about why they are better and im slowly trying smaller and smaller. Right now im at 30% foc with a 4.25 cross between aa and parabolic feather but still taller than the 1/2 inch suggested and I still use a helical fletch.

Have any of you tried a shorter length but taller feather?

I can get good broadhead flight with a big 1.5 wide magnus and 3 3inch soaking wet matted down feathers so I know I can get flight with smaller. but I like seeing the fletching in flight spinning to the target.

I totally understand that im giving up efficiency that I have proven I can get back by using smaller feathers but I cant / don’t want to give up that golf ball size ball of spinning fletching going to the target. Wonder if shorter but taller feathers would rob more efficiency or be better?

I Might need to do more testing and see.

I know what you mean, Jason. Even though I’ve been shooting 4 x 2-1/4″ for some time now, I still sometimes don’t fully trust that it’s going to be reliable with broadheads, and I start doubting, and then I need to go out and do what I did today – shoot that fletching setup, with broadheads, against a 3 x 4″ setup in crappy conditions (vid to come….).

And what today’s shooting session proved beyond a shadow of a doubt for me, is that there is no reason for me to not have full confidence in the 4 x 2-1/4″ fletch at all. They flew very well with broadheads, in a pretty good wind and light rain. In fact, my 3 x 4″ fletch were getting blown off course a bit – not the case with the former setup. So for me at least, and the setup I’m shooting, I feel like the issue is settled.

As an interesting side note, I shot two different broadheads today – 200gr. Eclipse Werewolves and 225gr. Steel Force Traditionals. From the shooters pov, I had never noticed any difference in noise, but my buddy who was standing off to the side and a bit downrange said that the SF’s were making audible noise, and the Eclipse heads were not. We repeated it numerous times, with both of the fletching setups mentioned above, and every time the SF’s were noticeable noisy.

I’ve always shot 3-5″ or 4-4″. Since this thread started I got curious. Since we’ve had nothing but windy conditions I thought I’d see what 3-4″ would do. I could definitely see less wind effects with the 3-4″. I haven’t tried broadheads with the 3-4″ yet but I bet it’ll work good. I never have any transition problems with my arrows from field point to broadheads. Could happen but……..We’ll see come Monday. Tomorrow’s gonna be too windy to do anything outside.

I’m talking wood arrows. Carbons are still a play and learning thing for me.

Smithhammer wrote: …And what today’s shooting session proved beyond a shadow of a doubt for me, is that there is no reason for me to not have full confidence in the 4 x 2-1/4″ fletch at all. They flew very well with broadheads, in a pretty good wind and light rain. In fact, my 3 x 4″ fletch were getting blown off course a bit – not the case with the former setup. So for me at least, and the setup I’m shooting, I feel like the issue is settled.

As an interesting side note, I shot two different broadheads today – 200gr. Eclipse Werewolves and 225gr. Steel Force Traditionals. From the shooters pov, I had never noticed any difference in noise, but my buddy who was standing off to the side and a bit downrange said that the SF’s were making audible noise, and the Eclipse heads were not. We repeated it numerous times, with both of the fletching setups mentioned above, and every time the SF’s were noticeable noisy.

I’ve been silent on this fletching length issue and I was hoping you were going to say that the longer fletchings were more trustworthy. Oh well.

When I went through the process you did, I mostly saw what you saw. But I was able to test it in ways you probably don’t have the talent for, i.e. Super Crappy Release. I’ve perfected the SCR (sorry, no autographs please…) What I found is that if you have a SCR, or hit a branch (common east coast problem) the smaller fletchings just don’t help as much as larger fletchings.

I can’t seem to get below 3 inches and feel comfortable with it. So I stick with 4 inch feathers. My arrows drill through anything (except a strong crosswind, which I’m willing to live with)

And besides, I’m sorry but, them short fletchings just ain’t perty, dangit!

On the steel force heads – I’ve heard that noise and won’t use those heads. I think it comes from their ferrel design. You can round the sharp edge off the high point on the ferrel and it reduces the noise some.

Steve Graf wrote:

I can’t seem to get below 3 inches and feel comfortable with it. So I stick with 4 inch feathers. My arrows drill through anything (except a strong crosswind, which I’m willing to live with)

Steve –

Were you trying them in tandem with high point weights/EFOC? I’ve really come to believe that you need to have both working together to get good results. I’m currently shooting 300gr. heads with 25%FOC. And I’ve watched them plow through twig deflections, as well as track better in wind. But with lighter points, I doubt I would be able to get away with the fletching I’m using.

Steve Graf wrote:

On the steel force heads – I’ve heard that noise and won’t use those heads. I think it comes from their ferrel design. You can round the sharp edge off the high point on the ferrel and it reduces the noise some.

Interesting thought on the ferrule design being the culprit. Makes sense – I don’t know what else about that broadhead’s design would create such noise, it’s just a simple 3:1, two blade with no venting.

The big culprit is the super crappy release… But to answer your question directly, I use 300 grain points and 50 grain inserts. So I have about what you have as far as FOC goes I would guess…

I blew the tendons out of my string hand a few years ago. And while it is much better, it’s almost like it’s someone else’s hand. I have to learn to use it again. Hence the crappy release.

So with the same arrows (bare shaft tuned to be just a hair weak) equipped with 2.5″ and 4″ fletching, I see way better results with the 4″. I attribute my discrepant results to my crappy release… which begs the question, don’t we all have a crappy release from time to time?

But I did go from 5 to 4 inch. And I did add a turbulator to the mix…

I am going to experiment with my new batch of woodies.

5″ shields, cut to 4.5″ pope and young. (just to be different :o)

I am going to bare shaft them before fletching to get good arrow flight first.

Then fletch to stabilize.

Rather than start I new thread, I’ll tack onto this one. I’ve been using 3″ parabolic and 2″ AA style x 4 feathers. On one of my arrows, one of the feathers ripped off going through a target. Cudos for high FOC. I continued to shoot the 3 feathered arrow and it shot just fine. I ended up replacing the feather, but I have to say, it shot right in there with the rest of them. I’m sure that also has to do with the weight up front. best, dwc

Did that missing feather tickle you, Ed? best, dwc

vintagearcheryco.com has 2 1/2″ A&A fletching in lime green only. Left or right wing.

http://tinyurl.com/l5qcwwa

any of you guys try the Gateway Rayzrs?

I just made up some 2016 camo hunters with 4 fletch.

They fly great! They are low profile and 2″ long.

Never used gateways. All they carry around here is right wing, and I shoot left wing.

4 fletch 3.5″x.75″ A&A wild Tennessee turkey.

cpbiv wrote: Never used gateways. All they carry around here is right wing, and I shoot left wing.

4 fletch 3.5″x.75″ A&A wild Tennessee turkey.

SORRY CPBLV… ACCORDING TO DR. ED ASHBY THE A&A DESIGNATION CAN NOT BE USED ON ORDINARY TURKEY FEATHERS. ONLY” WILD TURKEY 101″ CAN CARRY THAT DESIGNATION I am sure he will verify that…….LOL:D:D

CPBLY ON SECOND THOUGHT WITH THE TURKEY BEING FROM TENNESSEE AND HAVING FED ON SOUR MASH HE MIGHT ALLOW IT :D:D

vintage archer wrote: CPBLY ON SECOND THOUGHT WITH THE TURKEY BEING FROM TENNESSEE AND HAVING FED ON SOUR MASH HE MIGHT ALLOW IT :D:D

HAH! I love it!!!!

vintage archer wrote: CPBLY ON SECOND THOUGHT WITH THE TURKEY BEING FROM TENNESSEE AND HAVING FED ON SOUR MASH HE MIGHT ALLOW IT :D:D

That warrants another – Ed

Like to add another big grin to Dr. Ed’s face. 3 days ago received some A&A fletching from tuffhead. The last step in creating an EFOC arrow. Long story short–I was amazed at how well they flew. Arrow is Easton trad only 500 cut to 30″ 100gr brass insert 100gr steel adapter and 300gr field point/tuffhead–bow shrew classic hunter 49# at my draw of 27″.

After stripping the cap wrap and removing the large feathers–the addition of just 3 A&A and a turbulator established a 32.75% EFOC up from 31.67%. Now that arrow was designed for elk but not doing that so watch out whitetail.

Thanks Dr. Ed for some solid research. Another thanks to Joe and George at Tuffhead –great customer service even when they are on the road.

If you haven’t tried them yet you can get a pack of 12 feathers from Joe for a few bucks. Well worth the time and hassle of stripping those cap wraps now I have the rest of the dozen to do:D

Mike

MIKE thanks for the kind words.:D We try !

Feathers

I personally was slow to make the move to A & A feathers. I could come up with all the excuses and more not to use them. Just about like the skeptics of FOC or heavy arrows.

Similar to discovering that FOC worked I also discovered A & A feathers work.:idea::oops:

Actually FOC and A & A go together. Like you I was able to add a full one percent FOC to my arrow by removing excess weight from the rear. I hope more experiment with the A & A fletching. They fly great !

I too have recently built an arrow with 4 A&A style rocket fins. It weighs 1015 grains and 34.6% FOC. Shot from my 71@31 Black Widow into my full size bear target at 22 yards, I was very surprised how flat it flew.

Although I am not new to heavy arrows I am still amazed at how a UEFOC flying train can travel with such a desirable trajectory.

Mike, Sounds awsome! By the way, when we hunting? I scouted my grounds yesterday and kicked up a monster 8! Rubs everywhere! 😮

When you guys fletch up those A A type feathers, you do 3 or 4 fletch? Helical, straight, or an offset?

Vintage, I just got an order from you! I should get it on Monday. But I did not order the feathers. You only have bright green? Any other colors?

[quote=”wojo14

Vintage, I just got an order from you! I should get it on Monday. But I did not order the feathers. You only have bright green? Any other colors?

wojo14 As this is a new product I am moving slowly with it trying to keep inventory at a minimum.

I do plan to add colors if demand builds.

White feathers will be available within a few weeks. Selling feathers is like selling shoes you can have a big inventory but never the right size: or in this case color.:D

if you or others have a specific color in mind post it and If there is enough demand I will add it to the inventory

THANKS FOR THE INTEREST IN A & A FEATHERS:!:

Joe

Colors–anything bright–day glow orange, pink etc. You would be surprised how that lime blends in with ferns and such. They are small and occasionally:shock:, I miss:D.

Mike

Yes, orange, pink and white.

colmike wrote: Another thanks to Joe and George at Tuffhead –great customer service even when they are on the road.

If you haven’t tried them yet you can get a pack of 12 feathers from Joe for a few bucks. Well worth the time and hassle of stripping those cap wraps now I have the rest of the dozen to do:D

Mike

I am going to finally place a nice order with Tuffhead. I am getting the AA feathers to try. I assume 4 fletch? With a helical?

I think I finally got a set up with carbon that fly great out of my bow! It has been a long road. But, I finally found a set up. Now, I need to try the AA feathers!:D

I use 3 fletch straight. 4 flew the same but less weight at back end with 3.

gotcha! I like 3 feathers better anyway. 😮

I just thought I would chime in about the water repellency of the Gateway 2″ feathers. I was hunting in the spot that was to get the “spotty” shower this morning and I was very impressed with how the feathers held up in the wet conditions.

Mike — With all due disrespect :P, total feather weight depends on total feather length. In most cases 4-fletch weighs less than 3-fletch. Example: standard 3×5″ fletching equals 15″ total feather. 4×3″ (which I use and love) totals 12″ of fletching, thus weighing less yet (arguably, and depending on circumstances) offering greater stability and speed. Add to this the fact that the longer feathers tend to be higher as well, and we move into the square-centimeter realm where 4-fletch weighs even less relative to 3-fletch.

But in the end both work and we don’t always need math or engineering to justify what we prefer. 😀 I need not bring up the old “blondes vs. redheads” analogy. But I will anyhow. For one thing it leaves out brunettes and for another, at my age, any hair is good hair. 😳 Just how close hair resembles feathers depends on the bird in hand.

David–with all respect:twisted: wojo and I were talking about the same A&A feather– 3 is less then 4. We were not assuming any quantum fluctuations in the set up. Thus we did not factor in the blonde/redhead/brunette infinity. You are well aware that most mathematicians dislike infinities but some of us theorists can handle them with only a little discomfort. Therefore:

1. 3 feathers of the same size weigh less then 4 feathers of equal size= enhanced FOC.

2. 1 blonde + 1 redhead + 1 brunette = infinite trouble and 4 of either color or size = infinite possibilities or infinite trouble–based on the observers orientation.

3. If your still confused see Troy’s article or Dr Ed’s video on the tuffhead website. Although flight stability may be new to you considering that you flew (sic) a helicopter. 8) which is why you likely have no hair:D

Semper Fi

Mike

Play nice boys!:lol:

I think they are playing nice…

You see, once you realize that your draw length isn’t the only thing that gets shorter with age 😯 , then just about the only thing left to do is argue about hair and feathers 8)

I’ve been playing with 2 feathers after I read the article in TB magazine. Did it many years ago with the compound, it was unsatisfactory. IMHO, it is not much better with a EFOC traditional arrow either.

While arrows and feathers aforementioned in this thread may be compared to blonds, redheads, and brunettes, a two fletched arrow is more akin to the snaggle toothed hag.

No offense intended to snaggle toothed hags 😳

There’s an old adage about traditional archery, “It’s simple but nobody said it was easy”.

Seems that modern traditional archery has totally reversed that train of thought.:D

God forbid it ever comes down to this…

colmike wrote:

2. 1 blonde + 1 redhead + 1 brunette = infinite trouble and 4 of either color or size = infinite possibilities or infinite trouble–based on the observers orientation.

Ok, not to beat a dead horse one more time, but, I am going to try A&A feathers from Tuffhead on my new carbons.

Do I need to go 4 fletch? Will 3 be ok? I am tring to achieve the most EFOC I can and the flattest trajectory I can. I do not and will not shoot at game beyond 20 yards(at least this year). Do I need to use the special tape that comes with the feathers??

Right now my set up is 29″ arrows, with 350 out front. (225 head with 125 insert)Gives me 26.5% FOC acording to the Tuffhead calculator.

😕

wojo14 wrote: Ok, not to beat a dead horse one more time, but, I am going to try A&A feathers from Tuffhead on my new carbons.

Do I need to go 4 fletch? Will 3 be ok? I am tring to achieve the most EFOC I can and the flattest trajectory I can. I do not and will not shoot at game beyond 20 yards(at least this year). Do I need to use the special tape that comes with the feathers??

Right now my set up is 29″ arrows, with 350 out front. (225 head with 125 insert)Gives me 26.5% FOC acording to the Tuffhead calculator.

😕

Working with feathers on a FOC arrow is like experimenting with different weights up front. I would start out with three and see how they fly if satisfied with flight stick with three.

Regardless how the marines describe it 😀 In the archery worold …. three of the same size feathers will weigh less than four of equal weight and size.

I do think Mike got it right 😀 I am not sure about Dave I got interested in the riddle.:D

If you are referring to the turburlator tape that comes with the feathers it is recommended. The tape and cut or shape of the feathers are what makes the A & A give outstanding flight.

They augment each other.

I have been slammed with A & A orders .Some have been put on back order all of which should be filled by the end of next week. Our supplier of raw material held us up. No one likes to be inconvenienced 🙁 but waiting will be worth it. We are getting real good feed back on this product 😀 I use them my self and got a increase in UFOC of 1% I will say my arrow flew well bare shafted before I installed feathers. I use 3 feathers

wojo

Holding my Solomon blade—I would offer that perhaps you should try one with 3 and another with 4 shoot em and see what happens and measure their EFOC–then decide. I chose 3 because I couldn’t see any difference and I was preparing for an Elk hunt and was threatened to ensure the highest weight forward–at least that’s what his nurse told me he said:shock: Dr Ed uses 4 at least that’s what his video said, something about not wanting to fumble around while knocking the arrow. Not sure why but Dave also uses 4. Having said all that just remember that those two have killed a heck of a lot more with stick and string then I have or ever will–heck Dr Ed shoots cape buffalo with it and I would use at least 105mm cannon for that:lol:

Jason hope this helps if you need more background suggest you read Newton’s Principia.:roll: Then come on down and we will do some stumping and drink beer.

Mike

It appears that Joe and I were crossing electrons with our input. Joe thanks for the kind words and believe it or not was gonna call you tomorrow for another order of those itty-bitty feathers. I will any way and just wait for the back order–maybe you will have some bright pink ones for this Marine:D. Remember Joe, Marine, is always capitalized same as any deity8).

Joe/Mike, Thanks for info!

Joe, I just placed an order at the beginning of the week. Were my A&A feathers back ordered? You plan on getting new colors?

I like bright orange!

It the turbulator tape used to hold on the feathers?

Mike, Stumping and beer is the remedy I need! Hunting again this Saturday. Hopefully I get a crack at that 6 pointer I saw or the nice 9 that is running around up here. I would even take a doe. I am craving JERKY!!!:D

Jason–go to the tuffhead website and read Troy’s article on tuning the A&A fletching and watch Dr. Ed’s video–no you don’t use it to put the fletch on all explained above.

Mike—thanks for the PM

WOJO 14

wojo14 wrote: Joe/Mike, Thanks for info!

Joe, I just placed an order at the beginning of the week. Were my A&A feathers back ordered? You plan on getting new colors?

I like bright orange!

It the turbulator tape used to hold on the feathers?

Mike, Stumping and beer is the remedy I need! Hunting again this Saturday. Hopefully I get a crack at that 6 pointer I saw or the nice 9 that is running around up here. I would even take a doe. I am craving JERKY!!!:D

WOJO 14 Yes ! Your order should ship next week.

White and Fl green are the only colors we have now but reviewing options.

The turbulator is placed in front of the feathers about 1/4 inch It is wrapped around the arrow and when installed it looks like a pin stripe. the purpose is to disrupt the air flow around the feathers.

The following link is to a series of videos of Dr.Ashby explaining FOC ..Video # 1 is about turbulators.

http://www.tuffhead.com/education/P&Y%20Dallas%20May%202013.html

SORRY ABOUT THE DELAY IN YOUR FEATHER ORDER. IT HURTS ME AS MUCH AS YOU 😳 Hopefully things will get back to normal

Thank Joe! I get it now! I was confused on the tape…:?

I really want to get this EFOC thing right!

I will do a ton of ready and watching videos this weekend.

I will just use some 3″ shield cuts for now until my A&A’s come in! 😡

So guys, correct me if I am wrong, but if I get an arrow tuned good with 25-30% efoc and small feathers, my trajectory will be flatter out to 20 yards as well?

wojo14 wrote:

So guys, correct me if I am wrong, but if I get an arrow tuned good with 25-30% efoc and small feathers, my trajectory will be flatter out to 20 yards as well?

Generally speaking a UFOC arrow will drop less over a given yardage say 20 yds than a arrow of the the same total weight with significant less UFOC.:!:

Foc is not a panacea to all arrow problems. FOC is just another tool in the box to help develop the most lethal arrow possible. High FOC will improve penetration in ‘soft tissue’ but does very little in bone. It is more important to have a arrow weight above the 650 grain threshold for breeching bone.The ideal arrow to strive for is one above total eight of 650 + grains with 30 % FOO,

Once you have developed a high FOC arrow and seen the difference in how they fly and preform in windy conditions you will never want any thing else.:D

One more ?

When fletching smaller feathers, helical? Straight?

Dont you need a bit of a helical for a single bevel BH?

wojo14 wrote: One more ?

When fletching smaller feathers, helical? Straight?

Dont you need a bit of a helical for a single bevel BH?

Dr Ashby one of the ” A ” in A & A feathers recommends straight fletch.

The quill on the feather will give enough helical to make the arrow spin. That is why it is still important to match feather swith the bevel if shooting single bevel broadheads.

I always used a helical clamp in my fletcher before switching. I was surprised how much easier it is to get the feather to lay flat on the arrow with straight fletch thus getting a better bond between feather and arrow.

So, set jig straight, and use a straight clamp?

Sorry for all the ?’s, I am still somewhat new at all this.:lol:

My bare shaft shots from 6 yards:

I put a piece of 1/2″ tape vertically on my target.

The first 2 were right on the tape.

Most of the groups were to the right about 1.5″ but grouped good.

( I would have posted pics, but my files are too large…?)

I thought I was going to get my first Robin Hood!:D

Man I love this new Palmer Recurve! Smooth and fast!8)