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in reply to: How do you find your arrows? #30716
I’ve got a couple very good metal detectors, but there is so much iron in the soil hereabouts from old nails, fence staples and brush-hogged barbed wire that they are about useless for steel and iron hunting – or a field point. I rely on an old cross-country ski pole and making pulls every two feet perpendicular to the arrow flight. They’re usually much closer than you thing. That is, unless they took a skip or richochet and then they can be 10s of yards off on a tangent somewhere.
Out stump or bunny hunting I’ll find a stick and do the same perpendicular drag in the leaves past where it disappeared. PAys to search for the arrow as soon as it’s lost so the trajectory is fresh in your mind.
I believe it was Saxon Pope who said you should spend as much time looking for an arrow as it takes you to make one.
in reply to: 2011: First strike, first loss. #29501I’d also mention shock is your best bet with rabbits and squirrel rather than hemmorage. They will take a broadhead and still run off unless hampered by the arrow – and a squirrel will ruin an arrow by biting at the shaft.
I like flat-nosed GameNabbers (used to be called Critter Getters) and Barta Blunts (used to be called Tiger Claws).
in reply to: 2011: First strike, first loss. #29496I agree it’s important to have 100% confidence in your gear. Sorry you lost one.
What cement did you use on the judo? I’ve never had one come off on a bunny with Ferr-L-Tite hot melt.
I also make sure I have a full 3/4″ to 7/8″ of tapered end for purchase and wipe the inside of any new head with alcohol to remove the manufacturer’s preserving & machining oils.
in reply to: woodarrows #29478There’s a bit to it. Add 5# spine for every inch of arrow over 28″ AND 5# for every additional inch you actually draw past 28″ (some guys make 30″ arrows but only draw 28″). Reduce for every inch under 28″ And add 5# if you shoot a head heavier than 145 grains.
One good bet is to order a “try set” of arrows in different spine increments. Some fletchers even loan a set to you with a security deposit refunded when you send them back. Three Rivers sells a try set. That way you can try several and see what works. Release, bow shape and type all make for variances in needed spine.
Recurves, in general, are more forgiving of a heavy spine; so round up rather than down. Longbows (not cut to center shot) want the proper spine .
in reply to: other bows #27341Check out the Mutt at this site.
in reply to: Ground Hunting #27150Years ago I was talked into a tree-stand (after having been a still-hunter & stump sitter) for a canoe-in hunt and I took a bad angle shot that dropped the deer but didn’t penetrate well. It regained its feet and I lost it in a swamp. I was devistated and for the next 12 years ground hunted only.
In 2005 I had knee surgery and a month after put a tree-stand up near my home (20 mostly wooded acres on a hilltop). I arrowed a little buck and was delighted. Since then I spend the sunrise and a few hours before sunset in a stand and the rest of the time still-hunt. I take more pride in “fair chase” deer killed while still-hunting, but I’m pretty happy with those taken from the stand, too.
I find you see a LOT more deer you can’t do anything about while in a stand. 😀
in reply to: may I come in? #27138When I found out they hadn’t posted a guard I made it in!
Pull up a log and pour yerself a cup.
in reply to: Comfortable Bow #26107David Petersen wrote: Stump — I’ve often wondered why no “historic cult following” has developed for old Pearson bows, as has for Bear. dave
Shhhhhhhhh! You’ll spoil it! On that bay site you can pick up Ben Pearson Colts for $70 and Hunters for $100 to $150. I’m a fan of the old Ben Pearsons (and Brownings). It’s funny but I don’t find the new $1,200 bows shooting 1000% better. Maybe 15% better . . . so shouldn’t they cost $175.00 😀
Out bunny hunting with my “disposable” Colt.
in reply to: Recurve – new or used? #24981Certainly there are risks. One protection is to insist on a reasonable inspection period with money back (if not shipping costs) guarantee.
I have bought several unseen bows – one had a very minor limb twist and the other two were bang-on as described and photographed. Among them was a 1966 Browning Explorer that I am having a ball with and it has my MUCH more expensive and newer bows gathering dust.
Watch out for sellers who say “I know nothing about bows” as they have too many “outs” when it comes to misrepresenation whether they are honest or not. Check the classifieds on traditional forums and check the seller’s profile and recent posts. You can get a good idea of who you are dealing with.
There are a LOT of fair deals and excellent bows out there. Wish I had this resource (forums/Internet) 35 years ago when I was starting out.
in reply to: Comfortable Bow #24972The easiest shooting bow I have is a 1965 Ben Pearson Hunter (marked XX50@28″ that I draw to 30″). Quiet and smooth and just a honey of a bow.
I also have a 50# 1973 Bear Kodiak Hunter that is another smooth and easy, if somewhat slow, shooter that is a pleasure to use.
The use of a relatively heavy wood arrow – 580 to 650 grains – can relieve some of the handshock from any bow.
in reply to: New TBM, question for Don Thomas #24959Don (and Trad BH Mag).
Bless you for resisting the TV and media blitz path of hunting. I watched a few hours of “hunting” on TV this Sunday and amazed my wife at how soon I became bored and disgusted. They’ve reduced the hunt to 20 minutes of poor quality whispered soundbites (whispering just grates on my nerves), loud product endorcements and a hero shot.
One of my wife’s comments summed it up best: “Is that even legal?”
Legal perhaps, but it’s not the legacy of bowhunting I want to remember or be known for or anything I want any part of. Thank God Traditional Bowhunter exists as a refuge among these uncouth masses.
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