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in reply to: Hi Everyone #17578
Thank you, JM!!!
in reply to: wool or camo? #13245I use both depending on the time of season and the weather. Early season, I will be in camo. I like Advantage camo the best, no particular reason other than preference, although I hunt in a lot of pine and mountain laurel so it tends to blend in well. When the weather gets colder, hands down wool all the way. I prefer earth tones and plaids. Earth tone plaids will conceal you probably just as well if not better than some camo patterns. But, let’s face it.. when it comes to shooting an animal it’s all about timing and movement. I always cover my hands and my face.
in reply to: 2013 hunting rigs #10028My faithful Northern Mist Reverse Handle Whisper Longbow – 51#@28 64 in length
New 2013 Hunting Arrows – Western Larch, spine 55-60, 130 gr STOS 2 Blades –
in reply to: Hi Everyone #10004Thanks for the gracious welcome everyone!
TD.. I know.. I spent the first 8 months of the year dealing and battling cancer myself. I am happy to say, I am cancer free. But now I understand. And yes, any time in the great outdoors, with family and/or friends is a precious gift. I think as TRAD Bow Hunters we all have an appreciative understanding of that. Life’s challenges help bring that into perspective. Get well soon TD!
Alex… see you at Stillwater Pond! Go get the Herd Bull! 8)
in reply to: Best wishes for the TBM family #9695Larry & His Family & Friends are in my prayers. God Bless.
in reply to: broadheads #23145Sapcut wrote: I think the one’s who don’t like to “fix things they think aren’t broken” are the same one’s who are not real crazy about “improving” what they don’t know can be improved. They also aren’t interested because that’s maybe why they’re in “traditional” bowhunting to begin with. To hunt the “unimproved” way. And nothing at all wrong with that.
SAPCUT.. this was an unfounded, presumptious and to be polite an incorrect statement.
As Jason has stated, ACE Broadheads have been around since the 1930’s. ACE as well as all other Broadhead companies with patented designs for their products, I can assure you have done their research and done it well. As an inventor of multiple U.S. Patents of my own, it is an intense laborous process whereby your claim in the patent must be proven.
I believe if you would have read all of Bob Mayo’s statements, you would see that the test comparing the ACE Broadhead to the Single Bevel is questionable at best.
I am going to leave this post as my final, on this subject, as I realize, the Single Bevel has taken on an almost cult like following on this website.
To each is his own.. but SAPCUT never assume the rest of us are “Uninformed” and “Unwilling” to know, just because we don’t get on the latest bandwagon.
in reply to: broadheads #22982Steve Graf wrote:
Is this available online?
Yes, Steve it is over on the other site –
http://leatherwall.bowsite.com/TF/lw/thread2.cfm?threadid=233606&category=88#3166962
in reply to: broadheads #22904Sapcut wrote: I think the one’s who don’t like to “fix things they think aren’t broken” are the same one’s who are not real crazy about “improving” what they don’t know can be improved.
Unless we’re having a discussion about Mechanical Broadheads which many of us feel fall into the category of almost being unethical, considering their performance and failure rates.
A broadhead is a broadhead, all one has to do is visit any of the ABCC Broadhead displays to see that there is not much that has not been designed before.
Any properly tuned shaft with a equally sharp broadhead that is well placed will penetrate and effectively kill an animal. To be realistic even a Field Tip will kill an animal.
All I am saying is that the Single Bevel is not the be all to end all broadheads. And as a matter of public record not everyone agrees with the Single Bevel testing. Bob Mayo has a long and lengthy discussion about the comparison made in the Dr Ashby study and presentation at KZoo this past year, regarding the comparison of ACE Broadheads to Single Bevel.
Single Bevel is not superior – they are just another option. And yes, even given the type of animal and conditions, yes, may in fact be an excellent choice. But there are many broadhead choices none of them wrong or less superior.
in reply to: broadheads #22431I don’t disagree with you at all, Dave. And you are right, my experiences is only with thin skinned deer and bear, not Elk. So your point is well taken. Nothing wrong with improvements and experimentation either (I have over 200 different broadheads in my collection!) :D8) I’m just not sold on the single bevel. To me, a sharp well placed broadhead will penetrate and kill anything. All of the African Big 5 were killed long before the Grizzly Single Bevel came along.
It all boils down to individual choice. And I do not mean to discourage anyone from trying anything new.
I have some Grizzlies in my stash. If this gentlemen can’t afford them, he can PM me and I will send him a few for free to keep, to try them out. 8)
in reply to: broadheads #21796Nothing against the Single Bevel. But I have to agree with wideangle. As the saying goes, if it ain’t broke why fix it. You cannot go wrong with any of the tried and true traditional heads out there. Magnus and Ace come to mind. My favorite is the Journeyman – when you can find them (but Eclipse is the same thing).
in reply to: Fletching tips #21779I work only with wood. First I cut and taper for nock and point end first. Then I stain, and let the stain dry over night. Then I crest – usually a simple crest design at the crown – nock end (stripes underneath where the feathers will be), then I crest out at the end of the crown (normally I want this to be relative to the brace height of a given bow that I have). Cresting paint depending on brand may need to be thinned, but I always crest lightly and assume I will let dry overnight, and then apply a second coat of cresting where needed. I let the cresting dry for 24 hours, then I use wipe on poly gloss -one coat, let dry over night, then wipe down with 0000 steel wool, apply another coat – let dry overnight again – I repeat this process usually up to four coats of wipe on poly. Next you have to pay close attention to the wood grain and insure that your nock is veritical and the grain is horizontal – meaning nock is set perpendicular to the shaft. Once the nocks are set ( I use Lock Tite), you are ready to fletch. I use fletch tape any more and really like it.
As far as wood stain goes, most soft woods except Lodge Pole Pine take stain really well. Lodgepole pine and hardwoods are better to use Dyes like Fiebing Leather Dye or RIT Dye with De-Natured Alcohol works very well.
in reply to: Must have a lucky frogs tooth in my pocket #21763Good Deal! No one got hurt!
maddawg.. you need to move away from the Dark Side and Go Traditional Only!
Honestly, which Longbow is a tough question. And it all boils down to individual preference. I also a agree. Just because a Bow is “Custom” doesn’t necessarily make it any better than a “Brand” Production bow. We all have our preferences, I have been a Howard Hill Style shooter all my life.
My recommendation is go to a Trad Shoot where there are Bowyers / Vendors marketing their craft. TRY THEM OUT. Then decide what is best for you.
Good Luck!
P.S. Don’t overlook a Bear or Martin Traditional Longbow like the Montana or Savannah neither.
in reply to: Aiming Methods #39979I have to agree. This whole Instinctive thing has a lot of misconceptions. “It’s as easy as throwing a baseball”. Yeah, and we’re all Cy Young Award winners too. I think instinctive is more about the ability to judge yardage, shooting from countless positions and also moving targets. We all use the arrow to one degree or another in determining our sight picture. Over time confidence and maturity develops.
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