[SteveMcD]

in reply to: Long bow #55728

Sweet!!!! 😀 Cannot go wrong with Black Widow! 8) All the Best!

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: Hunting Arrows for 2010 #52304

Chris.. nice touch on the splicing! Is splicing fletch difficult? Any tricks to it?

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: Getting into woods…What do I need? #51597

The very basics to make a wood arrow:

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A Flecth Jig
Feathers of your choice
Bohning Fletch Tape
Taper Tool (Bear Paw is superior to the existing pencil sharpemer type tools)
Duco Glue or Super Glue for Nock and Points
Nocks
Wipe On Stain
Minwax Clear Gloss Ploy
0000 Very Fine Steel wool
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First taper your nock and points
Second – Brush – Wipe On Stain (Minwax is good – your color preference – multiple coats to darken – let each coat dry first – stain nock & point taper as well).
Third – Wipe on Clear Poly. Let dry and then smooth wipe finish with 0000 Steel wool – repaet with next coat of clear Poly ( I do 4 coats of Clear Poly to complete – be sure to do the nock and point ends as well – this seals out moisture and prevents warping).
Fourth – put on your arrow nocks – arrow nocks should be perpendicular to wood grain, Meaning grain needs to be horizontal when the arrow is nocked on the bowstring. (your grain “pointers” will be on the top and bottom of the shaft when nocked on bowstring).
Fifth step – Fletch your arrows – when using fletch tape
put a tiny drop of Super glue on both ends of the fletch when attached to the shaft.
Last – attach field points or broadheads – some folk wipe out the point ferrule with Acetone for better contact – personally I’ve never seen any difference ( for broadheads I always check for a good fit before I permanent glue and spin test – I also have my broadheads sharpened before I attach them to the shaft -be sure to use some type of broadhead tool when attaching for safety sake).
(Whether you mount broadheads vertically, horizontally or somewhere in between doesn’t matter it is all about individual preference – mine are mounted in the 2 to 8 o’clock position, so when I cant my bow and aim I have a clear unobstructed sight picture. Since we all do not shoot broadheads year round it is critical that you are very comfortable with your broadhead sight picture).
Let em fly!

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: Hunting Arrows for 2010 #51245

Norbert.. Those arrows are Awesome! The self nocks and Fletch Splicing are works of art! 8)

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: Getting into woods…What do I need? #46406

A dip tube would be necessary if you prefer paint on the crown and shaft. I’ve painted arrows with spray paint and done pretty well.

Straigthener – If you feel you need it. You can also straighten by hand.

Taper Tool – if you are going to make wood arrows, the accuracy is solely dependent upon how well you taper the nock and point – a woodchuck taper tool is the way to go.

Cresting – if you do a search you will see my home made creating jig i made. It is really nothing more than a $10 sewing machine motor secured to a piece of wood.

Paints – Craft stores and Wally World carries Folk Art paint which is very inexpensive. The key with paint is use quality brushes and think small. Sharpie paint pens work well for cresting also.

Make yourself an arrow rack for drying.

Poly Gloss or Gasket Lacquer for sealing a must.

Fletching Jig… you can get a Bear Paw fletching jig – very inexpensive and use fletch tape forattaching feathers. Fletch tape is the best thing since bottled beer.

Good Luck.. please feel free to PM me if you have questions.

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: German Pine???? #43819

Good point, George. Thanks. I will.

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: Just finished the accents on my Selfbow #43817

Vert Nice! Very Striking.

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: Cameras or No? #42899

And they wonder why I don’t subscribe to their magazine anymore. A segment on American Archer today had M.R. James, Founder – Publisher of the other magazine and Past P&Y Club President explain.. Treestands, trail cameras, food plots, Baiting “Hey if it’s legal in your area and makes your hunt easier and more successful – just do it!”. What a shame.:roll:

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: longbow #42763

WBR.. welcome to the site. I only shoot wood so I really can’t comment here. But, like Michael said.. Steve Graf and others have lots of knowledge on this subject.

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: Cameras or No? #42748

Adirondackman wrote: I don’t believe that they belong in the woods to be used as another “crutch” for scouting or hunting. Why would you want all these high tech. electronic devices to aid you in one of mankinds oldest method of survival. Hunters try to justify anything that makes hunting easier and less work. I just can’t seem to understand that.

AMEN, BROTHER!!!

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: Hunting Arrows for 2010 #42691

Michael, Geoge.. thanks guys. However, Picazzo I am NOT! I am so bad my wife won’t let me paint! I have a few short cuts. For one thing I brush or wipe on, I do not use dip tubes… mainly because I cannnot handle the fumes. I made my own cresting motor as you probably remember from an earlier post, I use a single jig and fletch tape so fletching goes relatively quickly, Doesn’t take much except time, really. Thank you though.

I hope we see some other 2010 Arrows posted!!!

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: Instinctive Shooting: Practice Distances #42223

Those big “old fashioned” targets were actually from America’s golden age of archery in the 50’s and 60’s. They came from the Field Archery rounds, which is a lot of fun, and arrows are notorious for burying themselves under the grass! Given the days of field rounds not only targets but also paper animal targets, taking long shots in the early days was quite common. Although, no one condones it today.

I wonder though… sometimes let’s face it.. if the shot feels right you’re going to take it, whether 20 yards or 30 yards. I remember a few years ago, it was later in the season, and as I usually do, I will stump shoot a few shots on my way into my hunting area, this day I couldn’t hit the ground if I tried, and I was bummed, none the less I went to my blind anyway. As fate would have it, after a couple of hours an 8 point buck appeared at the other side of the swamp and was determined to head over my way. I suspected it was probably his very active scrap up the hill behind me. Anyway, it was classic he was big bodied for an 8 point buck with a very respectable rack… he came within 30 yards of me broad side, as if to say “shoot me” I dare ya’! Like I said I didn’t have a whole lot of confidence, and I thought well he certainly isn’t within the “sanctioned” 20 yard realm. SO I swallowed my pride and just let him walk. A couple of hours later at midday, there was a stump about 5 yards beyond where that buck was standing, I took my 3 judo’s out.. and wouldn’t you know it.. I hit that stump every time. The stump was almost 30 yards! Go figure! Sometimes the gods smile.. sometimes they don’t. I did leave the woods that day with rejuenated confidence and the experience to go with it.

You bring up another excellent point, my practice for hunting always includes shooting from standing, sitting and kneeling positions.

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: Hunting Arrows for 2010 #42190

Treetopflier… these shafts came in at a medium average of 440 gr +/- 5 grains. With the 130 gr BH I’m throwing 570 grs out of a 51# Longbow. That’s a little better than 10 grs per pound perfect hunting weight.

Due to my volunteer affiliation with my home state’s fish & game department I have never endorsed anything, and the only thing I ever condemed was mechanical broadheads. I’ve gotten shafts from many of the well know suppliers and all I can say is, I’ve never had a problem with any of them regarding quality. You are correct, if quality was an issue they would not be in business for very long.

I like Doug Fir the best for moderate weight and durability, compared to Cedar or Spruce, which is lighter. As long as you don’t get grain fade out’s in the middle of the shaft, they are very durable and dependable. They take stain well too. Doug Fir was the preferred wood of Art Young.

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: Hunting Arrows for 2010 #42039

CW they fly as true can be. I never had any issues with Surewood shafts for straigthness and durability. Although, with Doug Fir, you do have to watch the grain run out, especially if you are using arrows for stumping. These beauties, however, will never see a stump! I can tell you that! Except maybe on a passthru!! 8)

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: Instinctive Shooting: Practice Distances #41487

I know there has been a lot said about “getting lost in the details of shooting”, but I do believe at least for myself, that shooting with a “Mantra” usually supports my best efforts shoooting. The reality is you cannot focus on just one aspect of your form and then forget something else. As Jay Kidwell points out in “Instinctive Shooting Insights”, you must be aware of the entire process.

Waiting the 2 – 3 seconds to me, is what I refer too as “settling in” to the shot, it slows you down for a brief moment of time, and allows you to acknowledge your sight picture vs snap shooting and frustration.

[Author]

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