[sharpster]

in reply to: KME website #57996

Hi Michael,

To be perfectly honest, I’ll take a piece of plain brown corrugated cardboard over the best leather strop and rouge every time. I know it’s hard to believe but the cardboard works so well that I wish I could sell it!!! LOL! Cardboard is mildly abrasive and although it doesn’t last for more than about a dozon blades, you sure can’t beat the price, and the other advantage it has over the leather is that almost wherever you may find yourself, there’s probably a piece of cardboard close by.

As for size, for two blade heads and knives I like to use a piece about 6″ x 12ish so I can strop diagonal to the ribs in the cardboard. For 3 blade heads I like to use a longer piece (18″-24″) and go backwards perpendicular to the ribs. Thanks,

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: I customized my Super Kodiak #57987

Nice job. Even though it’s not a Grayling, I hope you used a removable paint? I think the Super-Ks are some of the best shooters ever made. I don’t think they’re “ugly” bows but mine has way too much white on it for my liking. I’ve though about painting it but mine is a Grayling and I just can’t bring myself to do it. I just covere up the white areas with some tape. (now it is ugly). BTW, I really like the way you left the coin visible too.

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: 4-Finger Draw #57976

Got it!!!

Just finished another 100 shot or so practice and noticed something… Like sscoyote, I’m subconciously using the pinky to take some of the pressure off the sore middle finger. I”m now sure of this because I didn’t need or use the pinky at all till about 60 shots into the session… when my middle finger started getting sore again. So it apears that it is just a crutch and I still need to focus on the pressure I’m putting on the string with each individual finger. Just another aspect of switching from split finger to 3 under that I need to work through. Once I figured out why I was doing it, it was easy to just stop using the pinky alltogether which forced me to focus on the finger tip pressure and bingo! Problem solved. Thanks guys, sometimes just talking about stuff with like minded people makes you think about and notice things it might otherwise have taken weeks to figure out.

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: 4-Finger Draw #57902

Thanks Bender,
I agree that the less finger/string contact the beter and to be honest it’s only been a couple of days now since I gave in and quit “arguing” with the pinky :lol:.

I’ve noticed over a period of weeks that there’s a lot more to switching to shooting 3 under after almost 40 years of split finger than I had anticipated. There’s both physical and mental aspects that need to be reprogrammed in my brain. When I first switched it was making sure that all 3 fingers bore near equal string pressure. I beat the heck out of my middle finger for a couple weeks before figuring that one out, but it was a brief phase that seems to have passed. After posting this AM, I shot for a while and paid a bit closer attention. My very first shot was a dead bullseye at 23 yrds and I immediately noticed that I hadn’t used my pinky at all during that first shot. Then I shot for 45 minutes or so switching back/forth with 3 fingers and 4. It really didn’t seem to make a difference one way or the other as far as arrow flight or accuracy goes. Keep in mind that by the time I reach anchor, the pinky isn’t doing anything more than resting on the side of the string. My problem is (has always been) dropping the bow arm on release. Hopefully, this pinky thing is just another phase that will pass too. Heading out for another practice now. I’ll pay close attention again and report back. Anyone else have any experience with this? Thanks,

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: 4-Finger Draw #57664

sscoyote,

Funny you should ask because it’s a question that I’ve been wanting to hear some opinions on too. I recently switched to shooting 3 under (after about 35 years of split finger shooting) and find that my pinky finger seems to have a mind of it’s own and doesn’t want to be left out! During the first couple of months of getting used to the new style, it never was an issue but recently I’ve had to consciously resist the temptation to let the pinky finger join in. It had almost reached the point of being a problem when finally, I just gave in and now draw with all four fingers. By the time I reach anchor, the pinky finger isn’t doing much more than resting on the string. In fact, that’s true throughout the entire shooting sequence but even though it’s not really doing much, the pinky is touching the string the whole time. It seems to have helped me, mainly because it’s one less thing to worry about during the shot sequence. Anyone else ever shoot 4 fingers or hear of this? Is it a “bad” habit? Thanks,

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: How do you sight with your bow #51577

I’ve been shooting for the better part of forty years now and always shot split finger, corner of the mouth anchor, both eyes open, “instinctive” but recently I switched to 3 under with a “gun barrel” sighting technique. Meaning I now anchor with the arrow nock just about touching my lower eyelid and the base of the cock feather touching the bridge of my nose. I sight down the shaft just like it was a rifle barrel and use the point or BHD to aim with. I tried this new style of shooting on the suggestion of a traditional archery coach and my left/right group went from 6-10″ at 25 yrds down to 3″ or less in my very first group. Form is still critical of course as it always is regardless of shooting style, because if I don’t release smoothly or more often in my case, fail to follow through completely, then I still get the results you’d expect- an arrow that is low and left of the rest of the group. It’s certainly not for everyone but this style has improved my groups/accuracy, and most importantly confidence more than anything I’ve ever tried before.

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: Ultra-EFOC Barely Above The Heavy Bone Threshold #50983

Great news Ed! Looking forward to the next installment but even happier to hear you’re doing better and getting your life back! Good for you my friend!!!

BTW, We’ve discussed this before but you really need to find a better abreviation for “Follow up”… Some people might take offence… LOL!

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: A Question of Draw Weight #27790

kingwouldbee wrote: I am not pointing out anyone, just generalizations, however, we all will fit into one or more categories.

Ron you would fall under this category ” Unless you have an injury or physical limitations, or are just to dang old to pull anything stronger than a rubber-band lol”

I’m getting pretty close to fitting into both of the above sub-catagories Dave. 😆

Your point is well taken,

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: A Question of Draw Weight #27024

Dave buddy,

How the heck are ya??? Now since I posted the lowest draw weight…. If I didn’t know better, I’d think your post was directed at me… 😥 I shoot 46# @ 28″ but again I draw close to 30″. I shoot this weight because I’ve had two back surgeries and niether went well. But beyond that I think you, Ed, Dave Petersen and the rest of us all must conceed that the single most important aspect of game recovery (because that’s what we’re really talking about) is shot placement. Yea, I can shoot a 60# bow… just don’t expect me to hit what I’m shooting at with it. Just havin some fun with ya,:P

BTW, weren’t you gonna call me about 4 months ago???

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: 2 Blade double bevel and 3 blade vs single bevel #27010

Hi Dave,

I’m writing this with a grin on my face… the phrase “two blade slit” gets my blood pressure up pretty quick. That said, single bevel broadheads do most often leave either “S” shaped or “L” shaped entrance/exit holes which do tend to encourage good blood flow. Better stop right there before I start another argument…:wink:

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: A Question of Draw Weight #26587

Brack Peerless.. 46# @ 28 but, I draw closer to 30″. Shooting CX Preditor 30/50s w/265 gr. up front and I have total confidence that this set up is more than adaquate for deer, bears and even Elk out to 25 yrds.

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: 2 Blade double bevel and 3 blade vs single bevel #25864

Hi again Ron,

This should help. Check out the Ashby library here on TB, the study entitled “Why single bevel broadheads”. Ed constructed a shaft with a roller bearing mounted in the nock so that no twist of any kind could be imparted by hand and pushed a large double bevel BHD through a potato and then did the same with a smaller single bevel head. The large double bevel pushed completely though the potato in a straight line and exited the opposite end leaving a straight through and through “wound channel”. The smaller single bevel split the potato cleanly in half before the point even emerged from the opposite end. There are pictures showing the rotation and Ed gives a far better explaination than I could hope to. Here’s the link:

https://www.tradbow.com/members/223print.cfm

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: 2 Blade double bevel and 3 blade vs single bevel #25680

Brock63″-Quote: is there any video or photographs to prove this rotation caused by single bevel. I read the articles Dr Ashby had in either TBM or PBS….but was it TRUE rotation or just deflection from way it hit the bone?…

…I would like to see someone do a test with maybe equal weight or near equal weight Grizzly/STOS/Ribtek vs the Ashby Head…same shafting, fletching, bow, etc…..maybe 10 shots each against the same setup. We are not machines so placement wont be perfect but might be easier to put 60 leg bones in ballistics gel and set up a Shooting Machine for consistent draw, weight, flight, etc. maybe one of these larger broadhead or arrow companies will volunteer.

Ron,

There’s really no need for any large scale study to prove whether it’s true rotation caused by a single bevel blade design or just deflection. You can prove it yourself in less than a minute… Just go to your kitchen, get out a single bevel knife (serrated or not) and attempt to cut a straight, uniform slice off a potatoe, cucumber or other med-hard vegetable…It’s almost impossible to do because the single bevel design will “steer” the blade in a uniform curve unless we add counter pressure and even then it’s difficult to cut a straight line. In the case of a BHD, the rotation is even greater because there are two bevels applying the rotational force. Try it and let us know your thoughts.

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: Allegheny Mountain Bow #15623

I know Al and Jeff personaly. As stated they are both stand-up gentlemen and will go well above and beyond to be sure their customers a fully happy. Oh yea, great bows too!

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: KME website #15611

Still catchin up after a long MIA period. Thank you very much Dave and Ray. One of the biggest reasons we started the company was to help people. If we’ve accomplished that on even the smallest scale, then I’m very pleased and satisfied that my life has had at least some value. Thanks again

Ron

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