[rgrist]

in reply to: Fletching application order #147047

Thanks for the info regarding the 60×120 being noisy. I think I will just fletch a few and check the noise level as opposed to a dozen and have to re fletch. It would seem that if the feathers were the same length and height that there would be no difference. Probably since the 60 degree spacing is so close, that there is a change in location as to where the flow changes from laminar to turbulent with an interaction coming off of the two surfaces.

BTW: I really enjoyed reading your book and learned quite a bit. For instance, since a bow tapers from handle to tip, I had always assumed that the bend would be parabolic each direction and not two different segments of a circular curve.

 

 

 

 

[rgrist]

in reply to: Fletching application order #147028

I have had several different jigs in the past, but have come to prefer the Bitz because of the quality and ability to do 3 fletch, 4 fletch at 90, and 4 fletch at 75 X 105. I went with smaller feathers and use 4 fletch at 90 because the bottom right feather at the 75 X 105 setting would wear out quickly. A number of people in the past preferred a 60 X 120 fletch and I’m going to give that a try on the next set. This can be done with the Bitz at the 3 fletch setting by putting on two feathers then pulling the arrow out and rotating the shaft 180 degrees, then applying the other two.

I have both the helical and straight clamps and found the straight clamp set at a slight angle stabilizes fine with less noise. The arrow would be faster also, as any increase in rotational velocity would come at the expense of translational velocity.

BTW: I’ve done many hundreds with the 11/32 nocks and never had any problems. I now use a tapered shaft and 5/16 nocks with equally good results.

 

 

[rgrist]

in reply to: Rivercane arrow shafts #145352

Seems to me that you live on the north coast. If so just go over to the Sacramento river below Redding. I’ve seen rivercane in many places along the river. Ditto with the Yuba and Feather. Don’t know what the species is but it is most likely different from the type in the S.E. states. I have made arrows from it, but they were very light weight and difficult to straighten. I much prefer bamboo, either Japonica or Tonkin.

[rgrist]

in reply to: Smoking arrows ??? #138840

Never heard of the smoking arrow trick before, but would guess its most likely white phosphorus. I needs to be stored under water as it will ignite and smoke when exposed to air. (I thought this was gonna be an eye test when I first read it).

 

[rgrist]

in reply to: Math Question; #138613

y=f(x) then integrate to get the energy under the force / draw curve.

[rgrist]

in reply to: Compass ???? #137442

Maybe it thinks it’s still in China.

[rgrist]

in reply to: Longbow Selection #136459

I have been shooting a Bear Patriot longbow for 10 years or so. This is a Byron Fergusion design 64″ R/D, 50 lbs @ 28″. It is a very smooth shooter with no hand shock that I can detect, and hits where I am looking.                                  I know that many shoot higher draw weight bows, but I have never seen a need for anything above  50#. I use the tapered Surewood Doug Fir shafts with a total arrow weight around 650 grains which makes the bow very quite. There are many bows out there that are similar in performance so not promoting this particular one, but am completely sold on the R/D design.

[rgrist]

in reply to: I need some good advice Bow-making Info! #134697

Traditional Bowyer’s Bible Vol 1-4.

Dean Torges books

Steven Graf’s book on building an ASL

Jim Hamm and Douglas Spotted Eagle for Native American bows.

 

 

 

 

[rgrist]

in reply to: Advice heavy arrow set up 38-42# #133951

I shoot a 50 Lb R/D longbow, 29″ Surewood shafts with a 190 gr BH for a total weight of 660 gr. With a 1″ fixed crawl there is almost no vertical change from 10 to 25 yards. This works out to 13.2 gr/lb which ideal for elk in my opinion. 3 under hold with middle finger anchor at corner of mouth. So for say a 40 lb bow the total arrow weight would be around 525 gr. For deer size critters most people recommend somewhere around 9-10 gr/lb however. I would always favor momentum over velocity in any case.

[rgrist]

in reply to: Newbie advice??? #133586

I would recommend going with the Journey limbs with a 30″ draw length. I ordered the 64″ limbs several months ago and they are really smooth to draw ( Lancaster $50 ). Maybe some are still available, as the Journey was discontinued quite awhile ago. If not you can go with the Spider XL limbs which are about the same.

FYI: The Sage/Journey shoots every bit as good as the $600 + bows and I don’t need to be concerned as much with the baggage handlers  when flying.

Also, I reshaped the Sage riser with a rasp and sandpaper to eliminate the framing lumber look which everyone complains about. Really improved the overall appearance  of the bow. Now to add the Bacote limbsations and I be stylin’.

[rgrist]

in reply to: Shooting Glove #133573

Really good quality glove. Made from elk or bison. A bit stiff at the fingertips at first, as one might expect, but gets broken in quickly.

[rgrist]

in reply to: Correcting deflex #132658

You might try increasing the brace height a bit to eliminate the wrist slap, as the string has probably stretched over the years. I don’t think trying to correct the deflex on an older bow would be a good idea and certainly not from a cost perspective. Some people prefer a bow with a bit of string follow anyway.

[rgrist]

in reply to: Draw Weight #132444

As I recall, the industry standard for marking a bow is plus or minus 3 lbs, So, if the bow weight at the factory was between 47 and 53 lbs, it would be marked “50”. Also those spring actuated devices for weighing a bow are not all that accurate anyway. Sort of like a bathroom scale that always seems to weigh heavy.

Unlike an all wood bow, a fiberglass bow doesn’t seem to lose much draw weight over time.

[rgrist]

in reply to: HELP!!!! #131792

As Yogi Berra was fond of saying “It’s 90% mental and the other half is too”. Actually, once you get the form under control, it is about 90% focus and the rest being aware of the presence of the arrow.

[rgrist]

in reply to: HELP!!!! #131741

I bought the book called “Shooting the Stickbow” by Anthony Camera and read it several times. It helped tremendously. Also the books by GFred and Byron Ferguson were of quite a bit of help also. There are a heck of a lot of details in shooting a barebow accurately that you probably are not considering. Tried gap shooting, split vision, yada yada , but now it has evolved into something like instinctive. I’ve been shooting around four dozen arrows each day for about a year, just looking at a small detail on the target. It’s amazing how quickly the brain figures it out, with groups shrinking dramatically.

[Author]

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