Forum Replies Created

Viewing 15 posts - 976 through 990 (of 1,069 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • Patrick
    Member
      Post count: 1148

      Another option is to build up the serving so that it is thick enough for your fingers to withstand it. I’ve never done it, but know of others who have, and they seem to like it.

      BTW: I don’t even use silencers. I find them unnecessary, as the brush buttons serve their intended purpose AND work well as silencers.

      Patrick
      Member
        Post count: 1148
        in reply to: First Time Posting #42312

        Howdy,
        Fellow guitar player I see. Greetings and congrats on the elk hunt!

        Patrick
        Member
          Post count: 1148

          Dr. Ed Ashby wrote: No Patick, you didn’t miss a thing. There’s plenty of ‘how to sharpen’ information, but not too many seem to understand what it is they are trying to accomplish, and why. Fewer yet grasp that, even when the edge is truly sharp, other broadhead factors can affect how efficiently the edge cuts.

          I really eat that info up. I love the analogies you use too, makes it easy for me to explain it to others so that they grasp it, without having to try and explain the details.

          Dr. Ed Ashby wrote: Besides that, Sharpster is the ‘how too’ sharpening expert. I think Ron can probably put a sharp edge on limp pasta!

          Ed

          That’s the area that frutstrates me most. Well, not so much with pasta. Lol! I’m getting better at sharpening my broadheads, but have a long way to go. I’ve always had pretty good luck with ceramic sticks for my knives.

          Patrick
          Member
            Post count: 1148

            Howdy,
            I’ve never used them. I don’t like adding all that weight to the string. It’ll slow ya down quite a bit. Plus a clean release is more difficult to achieve because of the larger surface area on the string and the additional grip of the rubber. I’ve ALWAYS used a tab. Not that it’s the best choice, that’s just what I like.

            Patrick
            Member
              Post count: 1148

              [Yoda voice] Mmmm, resist you must. More efficient you will become.

              [Normal voice] My family and friends constantly give me grief over switching to a longbow. They think it’s a phase. They’re wrong. I have to say though, in the situations I’ve run into where it would have been a piece of cake with my compound, I don’t get that pull anymore. Just to be sure though, I sold my compound when I bought my longbow.

              Either way, there’s certainly nothing wrong with using a compound, but each time you “give in”, you’re making it easier for you to do so in the future. Just a thought.

              Patrick
              Member
                Post count: 1148

                Thanks for posting Dave, and thanks, Dr. Ashby, for such meticulously researched data. I love this stuff. You are one in a BILLION (actually, one in six billion :-).

                Edit: oh, and am I missing something? I didn’t read anything in there about how to sharpen.

                Patrick
                Member
                Member
                  Post count: 1148

                  I called ABowyer, and they didn’t seem to think it was out of scope for the very tip to curl like it did. As he mentioned, the tip is VERY thin and is prone to curling (relatively speaking). It was an intentional decision to choose the Rockwell hardness lending itself to curling as opposed to breaking. He offered to send me a new one, and have me send it back. Since he felt there’s nothing wrong with the head, I declined, as there was no sense in replacing it. If I recall (don’t quote me), he mentioned Javelina as an example of a head with a thicker tip that would be less prone to curling, but also less likely to penetrate as far as the Brown Bear.

                  Still waiting for the ABS Ashby’s. Anxious to see if they’re worth the $$$!

                  EDIT: I was just reading Dr Ashby’s Broadhead Study research material and came upon this:

                  “Breaking before bending: If a broadhead reaches a point in
                  resistance force where it must either bend or break, I want
                  the head to break. The studies show that a head which breaks
                  will have less negative impact upon arrow penetration than one
                  which bends; breaking becomes the better of the two options,
                  neither of which is desirable.”

                  Patrick
                  Member
                    Post count: 1148

                    rayborbon wrote: Whitetails are sneaky critters. Damn quiet too.

                    Sure are. Although my son has hunted with me numerous times, this is his first year hunting. He didn’t realize, until HE started hunting, that those really loud animals he usually hears are typically little those “pesky” little squirrels, and not deer. He was shocked at how quiet deer are when they come in. Some things you only learn from experience. LOL

                    Patrick
                    Member
                    Member
                      Post count: 1148

                      David Petersen wrote: Patrick — uh, what video?:? dave

                      The video at the bottom of the page, linked above (in my first post).

                      Patrick
                      Member
                        Post count: 1148

                        Dr. Ed Ashby wrote: I gave up on paper tuning several years ago. I’d have everything perfect, then change nothing except my shooting distance and the tear would be ‘off’ again. When I get my bare-shaft tuning finished now (I start close and work back to 40 meters) the point of impact is both ‘strait’ in the target and ‘matching’ for all ranges, with the bare-shafts, fletched field points and fletched broadheads.

                        For the first couple of years after changing to bare shaft tuning, when the tuning was completed I would go back and see how my bare-shaft tuned arrows ‘looked on paper’. Just like the paper-tuned ones, they would be perfect at one range and a bit off at other ranges. Nowadays I NEVER check how my bare-shafted arrows look ‘on paper’, it just messes with my mind!

                        Ed

                        Hmmm…I’ve only paper tested. I’ve never understood how bare-shaft tuning is better. My concern with bare-shaft tuning has always been with the target medium. If I shoot into a target, will not the arrow follow the path of least resistance, thereby skewing the results? I’m probably asking a question that’s been answered, and I’m admitting ignorance. Could someone direct me to the info…pretty please?

                        Patrick
                        Member
                        Member
                          Post count: 1148

                          David Petersen wrote: Patrick — Unique to Grizzstiks so far as I know. And while I do admire your inventiveness in super-tuning to the stiff side, I can’t even find the darned stiff side and so have for now given up on these otherwise superb shafts. I hear they’re coming out with a new generation with no stiff side, for club-fingered goof like me.

                          When I first read about it, I was kind of irritated. I didn’t want to deal with another variable. PLUS, I figured I’d have to become some sort of “arrow whisperer” in order to find it. In practice, it was very easy and obvious, but you have me second guessing myself now though :lol:. I’m going to check again this evening! Did you check the same way the guy did in the video, when you tried them?

                          Patrick
                          Member
                            Post count: 1148

                            Dr. Ed Ashby wrote: A lot of that difference in bone-performance is a result of the same reasons why there are no three-sided splitting wedges; that profile isn’t very efficient at splitting things.

                            Ed

                            Excellent analogy.

                            Patrick
                            Member
                              Post count: 1148

                              Yikes. They seem hopeless. Cheap steel or bad temper, I wonder?

                              Yes, technically the ferrule did fail. When I look at a photo of a pristine 150 grain WW Elite, it looks to me as though ferrule kind of ends right where the one pictured above failed…a VERY poor design indeed! That’s why I wondered if the completely solid 175 grain and above versions would seem to a least solve that problem. Sounds like there are many other hurdles though!

                              Patrick
                              Member
                                Post count: 1148

                                rayborbon wrote: Send me straight to hell. I don’t shoot a 200 or 300 grain log attached to the end of my arrows. Mostly because they have a very poor trajectory, fly slower and it would cost a fair bit of money to refit all my carbon shafts and arrows for a getup which I am not confident in. Heck I might even need some new bows with that much weight.

                                Lol! While I’m shooting one of those logs you mention, I seriously prefer that there is diversity in thought on this. In the latest TBM, there are two articles that bring a much needed balance to this subject. One, extolls the virtues of EFOC. The other points out that good shot placement born out of consistent practice has no substitute, and is much more important.

                                Patrick
                                Member
                                Member
                                  Post count: 1148

                                  The problem with the Ashby broadhead is that it is, apparently, a very complex broadhead to make. The first guy was doing a good job, but wasn’t making enough, due to time/effort put into it, so he quit. The new guy is having a tough time making it to ABS’s stringent standards. They’ve acquired the assistance of a metalurgist. Says alot about ABS, and I’m hoping they get things worked out soon.

                                  I can’t help but consider the same thing you jest about (a GPS in the arrow). The arrow, with fletching, wraps, and Ashby broadhead is an EXTREMELY expensive piece of equipment, and I might freak out if I lose one. THAT, by itself, is a good reason to hunt from a tree stand (easier
                                  to find your arrow). Lol!

                                Viewing 15 posts - 976 through 990 (of 1,069 total)