Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
I don’t have enough experience with traditional equipment to feel I should have any say in the design, but I do like what I see so far…for what it’s worth. 😉
I’m really looking forward to this. Very cool! You are amazing SB!
in reply to: This one really takes the cake! #61781MontanaFord wrote: Hey Patrick…Will you be using a knife with a knapped blade? hammered blade? or just get a chunk of obsidian and wrap a piece of rawhide around part of it so you don’t cut the shizang outta your hand? lol. How about just affixing a big round rock to the end of a stick and using that as a club…go complete caveman. Just a couple more options. :lol::lol:
Michael
I’m thinking the obsidian/rawhide would be the most logical choice since I want to go primitive.:lol::lol:
A club? Hmmm…didn’t think of that. I’ll have to reconsider. Obsidian knife or club and the electromagnetic suit, which combination would be more primitive?
in reply to: This one really takes the cake! #61747Sweet! I’m getting one of those suits and selling my longbow…just me, the suit, and my knife. The longbow takes away the challenge. It’s like shooting fish in a barrel. 😆
in reply to: Re-conditioning an old blade…with pics #61454HalfaHun wrote: Patrick can have it- if he wears it as a neck knife!
I’m 6’2″, and I think it might still drag on the ground.:lol:
in reply to: Re-conditioning an old blade…with pics #61240Always humble. 😉
Looks like a Cold Steel Trailmaster(?).
in reply to: Re-conditioning an old blade…with pics #61128StandingBear wrote: …please join in as I will be doing the same thing I did with Patrick’s knife and post a build along with pictures.
SB
Hopefully that includes the shipping-it-me-when-your-done aspect as well! 😆
I figured you’d already have the sense of how close you need to get due to your video background. That was just a general observation.
You had noted above that you have a tripod. That indicated to me how serious you are. It’s a must for obtaining CONSISTENT results. Does your tripod allow you to inter-change heads? If so I’ll give my Bogen Pan/Tilt head. A ball-head is preferable, but that’ll come later ($$!).
I almost always use aperture priority or manual exposure. When shooting in consistent lighting I use manual exposure. In variable lighting: aperture priority.
1.Your foreground is very important and is often overlooked.
2.Try to get low. Gives a unique perspective.
3.The camera should have “depth of field preview”, so you can see the image through the viewfinder as it’ll appear on film. Without it, you are always and only looking through the viewfinder at it’s shallowest depth of field. It’s not as critical since you have instant feedback with digital, but it’s still very useful.
4.As I mentioned above, don’t try to include too much in the shot. “Ask yourself, what do I like about this subject”
5.CRITICALLY look at photos online, magazines, etc.There’s so much! Lol! I haven’t even scratched the surface.
Check out these sites:
http://www.jimbrandenburg.com (my favorite photographer)
http://www.johnfielder.com
http://www.birdsasart.com (sign up for his bulletins!)
http://www.moosepeterson.com
http://www.luminous-landscape.com
http://www.charlescampbell.com
http://www.georgelepp.comExactly Weasel (on all counts)!
You want a lens that gives you INSTANT manual focus override. Those cheap (ie crappy) kit lenses don’t give you that ability.
People are shocked to find that wildlife photography is very much akin to traditional bowhunting: up close and personal. Even with long lenses.
I’m tellin’ ya GTA, you’re making a mistake if you focus on the body. The camera bodies get all the glitz and glamour, but they’re old news before the next season, even though they made perfectly acceptable images when they were introduced. Focus on the lenses. I’m NOT saying the camera body isn’t important.
StandingBear wrote: Patrick, without pointing to a single camera company, could you list various companies that would fall under your listed criteria.
SB
ONLY because of the volume of bodies, lenses, and accessories available (including 3rd party lenses, flashes, and even camera bodies) do I limit my recommendation to either Canon or Nikon. They BOTH have their strengths and weaknesses. The only reason I had listed specific Canon bodies was because GTA already mentioned Canon. There are many other great companies, but he’d be much more limited by choosing one them when looking around on the used market AND when looking to upgrade to bigger/faster lenses. Personally, if starting over, I’d have a VERY difficult time choosing between them.
Personally, I REALLY want a Canon 400mm f/4 DO IS. If I had a Nikon system, I’d be jonesing for a 200-400mm f/4 VR.
I would STRONGLY encourage you to buy the camera body used. I too have a Canon EOS 20D. I “shutter” (pun intended) to look at the prices they are selling for now compared to how much I paid(new). I’d recommend you buy either a used 20d or 30d.
I would recommend a 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 IS and the oft overlooked 50mm f/1.8 for available light shooting. I would forego the “standard” zoom if it doesn’t fit your budget at first for 2 reasons:
1. The 70-300mm lens will help force you to look for tighter shots. People tend to include too much in their photos. I think it’s a great teaching tool.
2. It will be more practical for wildlife.in reply to: Our Rights are Quietly being Stripped Away! #60663A bloated government that IS stripping away our liberties (emphasis on the plurality) is the real problem. But this site is about traditional bowhunting so I won’t argue THESE points any further. 😀
-
AuthorPosts
