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Viewing 6 posts - 16 through 21 (of 21 total)
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  • Dennis Sundborg
    Member
      Post count: 34
      in reply to: Epoxy and glue #17827

      I guess I’m living in a bubble because I still shoot aluminum shafts and feel hot melt is the only thing for gluing in inserts. I also glue my broadhead adaptors into my broadheads with hotmelt so I can heat them up (candle flame heat only) to insure they are properly aligned. Hotmelt also gives me the ability to insure all my broadheads are identical in alignment when sitting on my rest at full draw so as not to change the sight picture. I do this by heating up the insert equipped aluminum shaft and rotating the broadhead until each shaft is the same.

      Dennis Sundborg
      Member
      Member
        Post count: 34
        in reply to: Bow Quivers #37134

        Thanks Guys for all the excellent advice. Looks to me that in order to keep the fletching out of the arrow gripper I need to go with a wrap-around hood and a bracket type arrow gripper at the stabilizer insert. This means mixing up the quiver models but from the sounds of things all the suppliers are quite willing to work with a customer. Thanks again.

        Dennis Sundborg
        Member
        Member
          Post count: 34
          in reply to: Limb Twist #52020

          Figured it out. During the summer I was stringing and unstringing my bow on a regular basis. I don’t like to leave it strung in the heat, particularly in a vehicle. During the hunting season it stays strung. Just this past week I unstrung the bow while attending a family affair. When I restrung it, I noticed how the stringer and string interact. It’s the stringing/unstringing process that moves the pad. That explains why it’s only on the top limb. I also held the riser down with my sock foot and drew the string, watching the top limb. No evidence of twisting. I don’t have a twisted limb after all.

          Dennis Sundborg
          Member
            Post count: 34

            I’ve been shooting Deltas for years and found that re-filing (as you have discovered) is the best cure for the concave edge. I create the straight edge by working only on the triple laminated point of the head until I can lay the file down on the blade and cross-file the whole length. Working the whole blade initially may reduce the 1 3/8″ width at the back.

            Dennis Sundborg
            Member
              Post count: 34
              in reply to: Bow Tiller #51386

              Actually, I’m still interested in the initial question concerning bow tiller. (Truth is, I’m the same guy that asked the question but I moved back to Ontario, my membership expired and I couldn’t get back on line without creating a new avatar,) So again, how does my 1/4″ positive tiller effect my arrow flight? Is tiller causing my arrows to bounce off the rug and riser just ahead of the fletching?

              Dennis Sundborg
              Member
                Post count: 34
                in reply to: Bod-Kin Broadheads #17282

                Seems to me the old MA-3s had laminated blades. Three identical pieces of steel pressed together to make a three blade head. That means two of the pieces of steel came together right where the cutting edge should be. Not sure if the new ones (Bodkins or MA-3s) are still built that way but there was no chance in putting a shaving edge on the old ones due to the laminations.

              Viewing 6 posts - 16 through 21 (of 21 total)