[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Practice #58820

Dave said it pretty well! When you go to shoot for “fun” go ahead and shoot as many arrows as you want. BUT when you “practice” go with a PLAN in mind about WHAT specific thing you want to practice. Each “practice” shot should be done with a specific goal in mind and concentrating ONLY on that goal.

Just “flinging” arrows with no thought about what you are trying to accomplish WILL NOT help you improve. Has NOTHING to do with “how many arrows.”

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: question about eye dominance #58811

Target panic is an entirely different issue. One way to keep TP in check is to simply focus on your shot execution and NOT on the outcome. Basically, “outcome” (hitting the bull’s eye) is a future event that we can ONLY control in the present by focusing on our “process.”

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Measuring draw length #57933

Farthest from you ( the back of the bow). That is the minimum overall length you want for your shafts so you don’t over draw and trap the arrow point behind the bow. there are other “definitions” but this is the most practical in my opinion.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Hang your bows? #57857

<img src="[IMG]http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae274/moebow1/CIMG0242.jpg” alt=”” />[/img]

<img src="[IMG]http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae274/moebow1/CIMG0243-1.jpg” alt=”” />[/img]

Here are mine.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: question about eye dominance #57723

Dave,

The classic effect of having a cross dominance situation is when you shoot under pressure, or fast (depending on the situation) your arrows hit significantly to the left (you say that you are right handed) of where you are looking.

If you are happy with your shooting now, DO NOT change! If you get unexpected left misses, you MAY want to explore changing hands or explore retraining your eye dominance. (Yes, you can retrain eye dominance but it will take some guidance and work on your part.)

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: String Leeches Vs. Beaver Balls #40120

Less is more. I just came from a shoot where a couple folks had what looked like half a goat skin on each end of their string. I find that the “harmonic” idea has merit and can be done with pretty small amounts of “silencer” material. The more mass you add, the slower your arrow will be.

Experiment for best results but try to keep the “mass” of the silencer at a minimum.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Making flemish twist strings #40111

A little different opinion here. I used a string jig for about a year before I learned that it is much easier to just find a way to build your bundles 20″ longer than the finished string length required. I now just use a couple clamps that I can set at the required length to build the bundles. I have even used a couple chairs in a hotel room set so I could measure the length I wanted and built the bundles.

Don’t misunderstand, jigs work but are not required. I DO agree that you will need to practice building strings and learn what YOUR process needs to be to get a string that works and this WILL take some practice. I also agree that once you have learned to build a string it will only take a few minutes to produce one — BUT it WILL take a few tries.

As I build a string, I have the bow right there so I can “fit” the loops to the lower nocking point and then fit the upper loop so it just fits the upper limb at about the correct place( so it can slide down the upper limb).

If you are new to this, check out the video (DVD) “Doin’ the Twist.”

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Tuning issues #37153

J,

I don’t disagree with anything you said. I was just addressing the spine question not the nock problem — probably should have. I do agree with starting with the locator at 3/4″. 1/8th is way to low with a wood shaft ( and most others) and I’m sure he is getting a bounce off the shelf that is giving the nock high problem.

Your advice is correct!

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Tuning issues #37123

Yes, it’s possible but remember that string nock location mostly affects the arrow in the vertical plane. Weak/stiff indications are in the horizontal.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Tuning issues #37111

ST,

You don’t mention the center cut of your bow (or lack thereof) BUT… 225 grain tips are REALLY heavy points for wood IMO. Wood spine is pretty much predicated on a 125 grain tip. By using 225s, you are effectively reducing the dynamic spine of your shafts by somewhere around 20#. Then with what ever length you have over 28″ you are loosing another 5# per inch. Your weak indications sound about right.

Try some 125s and see what you get.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Why left? #29995

R2 wrote: Whenever I start pulling that left stuff (right handed I am), I just start telling myself to keep my hand to my face. Doesn’t take but a tad bit of “plucking” to throw the arrow off to the side.

My 2¢

R2 got it. Most of the time, left hits for a right hander is caused by the string hand. Many are too quick to point out that arrow spine is the reason. It is FAR more common that the dreaded “pluck” is the cause. An example I use is that a 1/8th inch change in the position of your string hand at release will cause about an 8 inch error at the target (20 yards).

Learning to use the back will consequently help your string hand to recoil back along the cheek, thus reducing the position error.

Collapsing is harder to analyze. It most often causes a right hander to miss to the right, but also can contribute to a plucking string hand which can put us back to the left again.

I’d suggest that you pay attention to your string hand and how it moves when you release. If you can take a video of your shot, self analysis is pretty easy — you can actually see what you are doing.

And, yes, I am an archery coach.:D

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: voodoo or what? #26633

Solo One,

You just explained your biggest problem IMO!!!

60# @ 29″:shock: As I said above, you will have a nearly impossible mountain to climb! Just because you are shooting a 60# C bow, does not mean you can shoot a 60# trad bow in the beginning. Somewhere in the vicinity of 4 times the holding weight.

Give your self a fair chance and find a 20 to 30# bow to start with.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: voodoo or what? #25640

Solo One,

I’ll chime in here a little. A common mistake many folks make when coming over from compounds is getting the cart ahead of the horse. You tend to try to go “too fast.” With a C bow you have your alignments kind of built in — peep, front sight, etc. and you are holding very little weight at full draw.

You don’t mention what trad bow you are shooting or how much draw weight. BUT, If you are used to holding + or – 15# at full draw with your C bow and now with your trad bow you are holding several times that weight, form becomes MUCH more important!! It really doesn’t matter how strong you are or think you are — if you increase holding weight 3 or 4 times, you will have a VERY steep learning curve. One that most cannot climb. No one wants to hear this but it is a fact that starting your traditional journey with a VERY LIGHT bow (around 30#) is the best way to start.

It sounds from your post that you are just picking up your bow and expecting to hit a target set about at 20 yards. Just like you were and are able to do with the C bow.

If you are serious about learning how to shoot traditional, take 5 steps back from the target butt, DO NOT USE A TARGET and just learn how to shoot the bow. DO NOT TRY TO HIT A BULL’S EYE!! Just shoot until the mechanics are comfortable.

Then and only then introduce a target – at the same 5 steps – and SLOWLY ( a yard or two at a time) increase distance. EVENTUALLY, you will get back out to 20 or so yards with better proficiency. There is no shortcut!

Just trying to “fling” arrows at a target at 20 yards will NOT EVER help you get better. It is a pretty well proven fact that good traditional shooters pick up the C bow very easily but good C bow shooters REALLY have a lot to learn when moving to Trad.

FWIW

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Safety Glasses #12666

There are some programs out there that require safety glasses (4H for one) but I don’t see the need. I wear prescription glasses out of need but really don’t see the need for eye protection. I’m sure someone out there will have a “war story” about that. Wood, aluminum, carbon I have never seen an example to indicate a need.

That said, using them CAN’T hurt either.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Bow length #27526

Yes it will, BUT… what type of bow are you asking about? Recurve, longbow, high bred, etc? It is best to ask the bowyer for their recommendations. Each one will be a little different and there is no “rule of thumb” that covers all styles of bows.

Arne

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