[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Woodies #44915

I’ll add that with wood arrows, I am NOT a fan of EFOC or UEFOC! All my woodies are about 14% FOC with 125 grain points. As most wood shaft shooters know, wood arrows tend to break just behind the point and adding weight there just makes the problem worse. Just my feeling.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Woodies #44910

Here are some of mine. These are Douglas Fir but I also really like Sitka Spruce.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Flemish string jig #55699

If the jig isn’t marked, you will just have to experiment and measure test lengths of string. Not all jigs have the same setup so they can all be different. That is one reason I never use a jig, I just make the individual strands 20″ longer than what I want for a finished string and go from there. The furthest peg position will give you the longest string but 50″ is for about a 54″ bow so shouldn’t be the longest position for most jigs I’ve seen. You should be able to get up to string lengths for a 70 or 72″ bow in most cases.

Once you figure out the length each post position gives, mark them for future reference. Then you will have more experimenting to do by building strings to see if your string twisting technique actually gives you a string length that is what you want OR what you have marked.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: New to Flu Flu Fletching #42810

Yes, the spirals are very effective and have the advantage of actually using less feather than any of the other styles.

Like anything, it takes some experimentation to learn a technique to apply any flu flu configuration and then experiment still more to get the performance you want. Fifty yards was mentioned in the OP so careful trimming of feather height for 3,4, or 6 fletch OR how much feather to use for a spiral and you can adjust the arrows to your needs for overall distance traveled.

I’d also mention that flu flu arrows are NOT at all spine sensitive. You can use a REALLY stiff shaft for flu flus and they will fly JUST FINE!! A good place to use those over spined arrows we all have laying around that won’t tune to the equipment we currently shoot.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: New to Flu Flu Fletching #42431

3 untrimmed feathers will work but the arrows will fly farther. IF you want more braking action, fletch three then flip the arrow nock in the nock receiver and put on three more for a total of 6. OR do a spiral wrap.

No need to reset a flecher to do 4 unless you want too. For just 50 yards I’d suggest either 6 untrimmed feathers or a spiral wrap.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Questions on tradtiional archery #17566

A footed arrow does a couple things for you. First, it strengthens the point end of the shaft. With wood shafts, when the arrow hits, the resultant forces will focus themselves right where the point joins with the shaft. The most common place for wood arrows to break is right behind the point.

A footing is another way to add weight forward and increase strength behind the point. Again, wood shafts are not very user friendly to really high point weights ( high FOC configuration) so a footing helps here too.

Tapering a shaft also contributes to weight forward, although not to the degree of a hardwood footing. Many also believe that tapering aids with bow clearance. I personally don’t see much benefit to tapering but that’s just me.

Either or both methods are pretty nice, increase the appeal of the arrow but are work intensive if doing it yourself or add a fair dollar amount if purchased. Totally up to you.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Different strings-impact on tuned arrows #13536

Mhuddle,

Where in MN are you? Maybe we could get together and work it out?

Arne

Grand Rapids, MN

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: numb finger #56214

corpsman AND Cameron,

I ABSOLUTELY did not mean to come across as “harsh!” In reading my post again I can certainly see that I probably did. Sincerest apologies!!!

I was just trying to help. corpsman, I believe you hail from the San Diego area? That was the intent of that part of the post. There should be LOTS of help in the area (Chula Vista is the Olympic archery training center) and there will be many trad shooters and formal coaches in the area if I’m not mistaken.

Again, SORRY!! 😳

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: numb finger #55391

corpsman,

You have asked a LOT of questions : brace height, nocking point wear ( NOT notching point) and now a numb finger.

Sorry, BUT you NEED to find a mentor!!!!!!!!!!!!! That person can help you avoid all the difficulties you seem to be having.

I’ll address a couple of your questions on this thread.

FIRST!! DO NOT shoot again until you have regained feeling in your finger!!!!!!!!! Some folks have a sensitive nerve that runs through the center of the first joint of the middle finger that is more sensitive and can cause what you describe. ONCE you have feeling back in that finger (AND NOT UNTIL!!!) try hooking the string just behind the joint and NOT IN the joint.

Second, Figure out why you are getting wear on the serving at the “nocking point” and fix it — BUT you DO NOT wax the serving!!

Last, 60# and even 45# can cause a lot of problems for beginners. And a 100 arrows may be way too much for starting out. Just because you CAN PULL the bow, doesn’t mean you can SHOOT it.

I REALLY wish you good luck, but I see a LOT of beginner’s errors here. Find a local that can help!

Arne

PS!!!! Quit poking yourself with needles!!!! Numb is numb and you don’t need to further injure yourself with “testing!!!!”

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Howard Hill Patent #45433

Interesting Jim!! That appears to be his “concave/convex” construction that only David Miller in Indiana is making as far as I know.

Cool to read.

Thanks

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: How do you draw? #43720

I’m here smith hammer, all’s well, just lurking.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: poll on release #31112

OK, a coach is going to SPLIT(finger) some hairs here and hopes not to get run (3)UNDER. 😀

Split finger OR 3 under are ways of HOOKING the string for drawing and each style accommodates an aiming style BUT NOT the RELEASE. Split allows a longer point on distance, 3 under a shorter point on distance — an aiming accommodation nothing more!!

The actual release, ideally, is relaxing the fingers until the string leaves them while pushing (forcing/flipping) the fingers out of the way. But the method or style of hooking the string has (or should have) NO effect on the release itself.

The actual release should be totally unaffected by where your fingers are placed.

FWIW.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: proper treatment of new bow #61460

I’ve got to put on my “coaching hat” now and offer some advice.

50# bows are not something for a person to “grow into!!” And especially a 25# increase in one jump. He can or will develop some really bad habits trying to “haul” the string back (and risk potential injury!).

I suggest that you unstring the bow and put it away for a good while and let him work up to it in no more than 5# increments and over a few years as he grows (depending on age).

You will need to do what you need to do, BUT this is a CLASSIC error that often drives folks out of archery. The bow MAY have been a “great” deal, but it is NOT the best way to go for the situation you describe.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Does short drawing a bow effect its performance #49775

Short answer: NO! Long answer: Still NO.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Shooting bows with a shorter draw length than yours #45121

:D:D Absolutely R2. I JUST COULDN’T pass up on “furtherest.” My apologies to the OP — the devil made me do it.:evil:

Yes, bows tillered to 26″ may or may not exhibit stacking at 28, but it IS a distinct possibility.

Arne

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