[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Archery Anatomy #22093

I have had that book for several years now and it is a GREAT reference and I refer to it often. Many “traditional” shooters SEEM to be of the mind set that “grippin’ and rippin'” is the only way to shoot (Don’t bother me with no durn details!!). There is SOOOO much to be learned IF we allow ourselves to study, not only archery form, but how our body/bones move and work (which amounts to the same thing).

BIOMECHANICS is not magic, but it is proven in many athletic fields and learning/studying it WILL improve your shot.

OH! AND it works just as well for “huntin'” as for anything else!

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Lion Poacher? #56148

I don’t THINK I’m taking sides with this but I do not agree with taking this lion. I will say this though. IF I was to contract with a professional hunter in Africa (or anywhere else for that matter) I would have to rely on that professional hunter to put me on LEGAL game. IF I had payed a “trophy fee”, I would expect that that “trophy” would be LEGAL. Would any of you, contracting a hunt in a foreign place, expect anything else?

I know this guy has a history of difficulty in ethics (apparently) and MAY have broken game laws but again, where does the professional hunter/guide figure in this? As Paul Harvey would say,” what’s the rest of the story?”

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: The "Form" Thread #64101

Bernie,

Glad I “rang the bells.” Keep at it and update us often. One change leads to others so it is a progression not a one stop shop.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: The "Form" Thread #64048

Bernie,

We got it now! Over all not too bad, but you are doing a few things that makes the shot harder than I think it needs to be.

You are bending over (hunching) to about 20 degrees. This is putting strain on your muscles (lower back and shoulders/neck) that you don’t need. It almost looks like you have a belly ache. You will be more relaxed and have less muscle activation if you stand up straight and hold your head up on top of your spine.

Your draw looks good, although you are getting your string elbow a little low — but that may be a result of the hunched over position.

You are also using a LOT of muscle in the draw. This can be seen by the early shots in the video. Watch your bow shoulder. See how far to the right in the video it stays? It does not move. It needs to move forward towards the bow a little. Don’t let it roll up towards the jaw, just forward a little towards the bow. Think, “I’m levering my shoulders into the bow.”

Your bow arm movement on release, and the string hand pop at release is a function of using muscle rather than bone on bone.

I really think that if you stand up straight, draw to your face ( as you are) you will feel the bow weight actually reduce as the bones take up the load and not the muscles.

You do shoot fast, but that isn’t necessarily a problem IF you are hitting your alignments. Right now, you aren’t, but that is largely a function of your posture more than any thing else.

Let’s keep at this now that you have found the You Tube solution. 😀 You aren’t that far off.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: The "Form" Thread #63918

OPPS. The “share” linked the video, didn’t really mean to do that, just the link. Oh Well, this video was just a couple demo shots I was doing with my Hoyt RX, wasn’t really meant to be instructional.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: The "Form" Thread #63916

Berniebac,

When I click on the link, I just get my own YouTube page not your video. I too struggle with a lot of this stuff. If you are willing to share your Youtube name, maybe I can see your video by doing a search under your name?

It seems that the address you posted is generic and based on the “cookies” we each have on our computers. I get the same home page address that you posted above.

Another thought, If you go to your You tube page, and then click on the video, below the video is an option “share” if you click on the “share” another box will show up with an address in it highlighted in blue. Copy the highlighted blue line then come here and simply paste it.

The address line would look like this: http://youtu.be/yXX5lGTTOeg

I see that YT has changed things again will have to study it more to see what is going on.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: The "Form" Thread #62962

grumpy,

Not exactly sure where you are going with this post. EVERYONE that works on form will generally “loose a few bull’s eyes” as they learn. BUT! invariably, if they stick with it the number of bull’s eyes will increase as they perfect their form.

For many, fun is the name of the game but more bulls will usually equate to more fun.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: The "Form" Thread #44021

R2, Ralph,

I would suggest that you pay attention to your bow arm. It is critical that the bow arm remain 90 degrees to your spine. Watch your video again and look at the angle between your bow arm and your spine/torso. You especially drop it when you shoot at the target behind you.

TRY this. Draw on the horizon (the top of the fence?) So your arm is level to the world and not dropped down. Then After reaching full draw, And while maintaining the 90* angle, simply bend at the waist to bring your sight picture down to target.

By simply dropping your bow arm to shoot at a low target, you change your draw length AND put your bow arm and shoulder into a position that causes the bow arm to drop sharply at release. That can also cause the bow shoulder to be pressed up into a weak position. Keep the 90* and see how much more stable your bow arm becomes.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: The "Form" Thread #44015

Smithhammer,

I’ll try to help. Your shot starts well, I like the downward motion draw — that helps a lot with getting back tension. BUT You are still moving down when you release. Both your bow hand and your string hand are moving downwards as you release. I suggest that releasing during this movement makes it really hard to release at the exact same point every time. See how your string hand pops down then comes back up at release??

Your timing, when it’s on will put a couple arrows into the same spot but I think you find that it is not consistent.

I have no problem with fast shooting BUT you need to establish a consistent “stop” point – every time.

Think about this example I give most of my students. IF your string hand is 1/8th inch different (up, down; left, right; or back and forth) you have an 8 INCH arrow strike difference at 20 yards. Then add in a moving bow hand too! What can you expect??

Achieve a SOLID stopping position that is the same and your inconsistencies will reduce a lot and fairly fast.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Longbow vs. Recurve techniques. #33992

I’m agreeing with everyone above. A bow grip presses into the hand, the upper and lower limbs bend, regardless of the “geometry.” I see NO difference in technique between the recurve and longbow. Yes, the grips MAY be different, but with a decent grip technique, that shouldn’t matter at all.

What you like is what you like — what fits with your own self image.

I’d advise not to try to shoot them differently, shoot them how YOU shoot and enjoy.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Woodies #47097

PS. I’ll add that I certainly don’t build all my arrows with spliced feathers!! My “indoor” aluminum arrows NEVER get splicing but they are normally used for instruction and foam targets.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Woodies #47088

codger,

There are 2 ways to splice feathers. The easiest way to start is “butt splicing.” Simply cut all the way through the quill and fit carefully end to end. Then be VERY careful loading the spliced feather into the fletching clamp to get everything aligned.

The other way, is a little harder IMO but is overall better is membrane splicing. You use the quill of one feather and glue the membrane of different colors onto it.

Neither method is really hard to do BUT it DOES TAKE ATTENTION TO DETAIL!!!! AND PRACTICE. AND PATIENCE!!

Spliced feathers MAY not be quite as durable as “self” feathers but arrows get used up one way or another sooner or later.

I think if you do a search of You Tube, you may find some “build alongs” or tutorials that might give some better instruction. If folks are interested in the local area, (Northern Minnesota) I’ll work with them in person, I just don’t think I could do a viable or reasonable video on this.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Woodies #44953

I have shot tapered ( and do have some) but I guess I’m not good enough to see that the added work of producing them or cost to buy them is worth it. Yes, they move the weight forward a little, but I just have never seen the advantage.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Woodies #44944

PS. Wood is all I’ve ever hunted with. I lived in Alaska for 20 years and used wood all that time. Grew up in South Dakota in the “wood” years so wood for hunting all my life. I do use aluminum a lot for 3D, and instruction simply because they hold up better with foam targets and are easier to pull. You can have carbon, just don’t like them for anything.

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Woodies #44941

No, I have never used any “hardwood” shafts. I get the impression that they are harder to keep straight (just my impression) and I have no problem with that with Doug Fir or Stika or POC after finish is applied. Plus, Doug Fir produces a nice weight arrow, and is VERY strong.

Arne

[Author]

Posts